Watch Tower, West Face, Alpine II, 5.7

Lat/Lon: 51.40139°N / 116.31944°W - CLICK FOR TOPO MAP
The Watch Tower will always hold an exceptional memory for me as being the
site of the longest leader fall I have ever taken to date (July 29, 2006) as well as
ever expect to survive, 140’+/-. Watch Tower is located in the Cataract Brook Valley
that leads to the famed Lake O’Hara in Yoho National Park, one of four connecting
national parks making up the central Canadian Rockies. It is a tower-shaped spire
that is technically an extension of the north ridge of Mount Collier. The Watch Tower
was first ascended in 1932 by Corry, Gilman and Whitney, but the classic alpine
route climbed today, West Face, Alpine II, 5.7, was not put in until 1962 by
Greenwood and Boles. This Watch Tower should not be confused with a peak of the
same name in the Maligne River Valley of Jasper National Park. The Watch Tower is
a striking feature that is hard to miss if you are skiing or hiking the Lake O’Hara road
(east of).

The only published route on the Watch Tower is the West Face, Alpine II, 5.7
found in the Selected Alpine Climbs of the Canadian Rockies. Like many of the
obscure routes highlighted in this guidebook, the 5.7 rating appears to be an older
rating on the Watch Tower and the climbing on Pitch 2 is more at the 5.8 sustained
level. I found the route quite dirty and with no fixed protection. It is quite possible
I was off route and thus I will revisit the tower in the near future to explore this further.
Meanwhile I will make note of this observation in the route section. The approach up
Watch Tower Creek is the same initial approach for the north face route on Mount
Victoria.

Getting There
The Trans-Canada Highway runs from Calgary through Banff and Yoho National
Parks on its way to Vancouver. Pass through Lake Louise heading westbound and
continue on the Trans-Canada on its way to Field, BC. As you pass the Yoho
National Park welcoming sign and Mount Bosworth on your right, look for the Lake O’
Hara parking lot turnoff on your left. Drive across the railroad tracks and park at the
bottom of the road. You cannot bike the Lake O’Hara road and the Cataract Brook
Trail has been decommissioned. The dusty road going in is somewhat of a hazard
to hikers as the park staff who drive the road do so at twice the speed limit and they
don’t expect to see anyone on foot since most everyone is using the bus service to
reach Lake O’Hara itself.

Red Tape
You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter Banff National
Park coming from the east on the Trans-Canada. This pass is good for all four
national parks. If you plan many visits to Canadian National Parks within one year,
you should purchase an annual pass. There are no permit requirements to climb in
Yoho National Park, but all camping is regulated. There is also a backcountry permit
required if you plan on spending a night in the backcountry versus the town
campsites. This can be obtained via the parks website which is included in the
camping section below. Yoho National Park headquarters are located in Field, BC
and you will drive through the manned national park kiosks as you enter Banff
National Park on the Trans-Canada.

This is active grizzly country, therefore, you should always have bear spray on your
person. I advise checking with Parks Canada for any area and/or trail closures.

When to Climb
As with most climbs in the Canadian Rockies, the driest time is from June through
September. I climbed the Watch Tower in July and found the route completely free of
snow despite the fact you almost reach the tongue of the west Mount Collier glacier.

Camping
The closest camp site would be the Lake O’Hara campground at the end of the Lake
O’Hara road another 6km south. The Alpine Club of Canada also maintains the
Elizabeth Parker Hut at the same location. In addition there is luxury accommodation
at the Lake O’Hara Lodge. The Watch Tower is a fairly obscure climb and any
climbers that do tackle it usually just make it a day trip wherefore camping is simply
not an issue.

You can go on line at Yoho National Park to pick a camp site and obtain your
camping permit. You will also be required to obtain your backcountry permit which is
separate, but can be obtained simultaneously if you plan on camping at a
backcountry site. You cannot camp outside of the marked specific camping areas.

Mountain Conditions
Yoho National Park has weather, wildlife reports, trail closures, etc. Outside of the
parks web site, Canadian Avalanche Association is also useful, particularly for winter
travel. Canadian Alpine Accident Reports are also extremely helpful and include at
least one report regarding a fatality on this climb. I came close to adding another.

Route
This is a 3000’+/- ascent day. Hike down the Lake O’Hara road approximately 5km to
Watch Tower Creek which is flowing down directly from the southwest side of the
Watch Tower. You can ascend either bank on the left hand side of the road. We
ascended the left bank and descended the right and found them very similar. The left
has a faint animal trail. Either way you will be crossing several braids of the creek.
Ascend up into the scree basin below the headwall containing the tongue of the
Mount Collier glacier. There are several scree slopes that ascend on your left up to
the Watch Tower. The first and loosest scree slope is the easiest route. However, the
next larger scree slope east is more entertaining and more direct. We chose the 2nd
scree slope which got us to relatively good quality rock to scramble on. We worked
our way slightly left out of a gully or two until we had to climb one short steep section
of lower 5th class. I climbed it solo but broke a rope out for my partner.

Once you break out and over the short cliff bands, you will continue to aim for the
west base of the Watch Tower. There is one more scrambling section to ascend via
a gully to actually get you to the base of the climb. We noticed a rappel station
(slings) at the top of this gully that my partner did later use to descend this portion.
Continue up left to the base of a chimney with a large black chock stone of sorts that
serves like a roof problem.

1st Pitch- This is a 5.7 climb of approximately 25 meters (photo). There is a very
loose flake on the right wall. Beware of placing any gear in this flake. I turned the
chock stone to the left after climbing out of it to the right. Once above this piece, the
rest is easy going to under a very loose ledge. Be careful pulling yourself over this
ledge and bring up the second using a bomber crack running up a corner on the
west face. There is a rappel station at the western most end of this loose
assemblage of blocks that form this ledge.

2nd Pitch- The Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies really threw me for
a loop on this one (photos). Either the route I am describing is off route, despite the
rappel stations, or Sean picked up some obscure so-so beta, which would not be
the first time. The description in the book talks of moving left to twin cracks. It also
mentions a 20 meter ledge. We definitely climbed a chimney that seemed like old
5.7 to me to a very identifiable ledge, but is was 20 feet long, not 20 meters. Also, I
could never really identify twin cracks, unless he was referring to the large corner
with a solid roof on top. But a large corner with a roof on top would have been the
only way to describe pitch 2 if in fact this is the same route. In any regard, I moved a
little left and started climbing a fairly non-descript face. Two issues, the route
became completely runout after putting in the first piece and it appeared to have
never been climbed as significant hand holds were coming apart like dry clay.

I had no choice but to move back right into the corner and take it. It went fine, but was
relatively sustained in the 5.8 realm. It does have two cracks in the crease of the
corner. You need large pieces here and I had wished I had more than I did. What I
know for sure was that my 2nd piece was a #7 Metolius and my last of 5-6 pieces up
the corner, before working on the roof, was an #8 Metolius. I was reserving my BD #4
and in retrospect should have used it in the corner.

I turned the roof to the right and got sucked further right into another much smaller
corner. After a move or two I felt committed and failed to look at going back left over
the roof which I suspect was the appropriate move if I was on route at all. Instead I
found myself several meters committed to a very run out corner in the 5.10-5.11
range. I did get a 00 Metolius into a strong flake, but it really needed a curved nut, I
believe BD #2 (blue micro). Bottom line is I could not make the nuts I had left work.
The problem with the cam was the clayish raw feel going into the flake. I pretty much
knew it was not going to hold any real fall. The issue at this point, no doubt being off
route, was one of strength and commitment. There was no down climbing option
and there was no pissing around time wise with nothing but balancing holds to hang
on to. I had to do something I hate on a new route and that was rely 100% on one tiny
clayish looking foot “nubbin” feature. As I shifted my entire weight onto that hold (the
corner was to wide too climb via friction thus I was climbing the right face) and
reached for what was the top of the corner and the end of the difficult climbing, it gave
way.

We had 30 meters paid out between the belay on the ledge below and the lead
climber. I fell straight down slicing my hands on the rock and easily ripping the 00
Metolius cam out. That action caused me to flip falling head first and facing out as I
dove clean and relaxed, similar to Superman according to my belayer. Those few
seconds seemed like eternity. I ripped the #8 Metolius out first and then several other
pieces. I flew past the belayer and the ledge (thank God) and was arrested 10
meters from the base of the climb. This was a 40 meter rope fall, about a 140’
dynamic fall. You meet few if any climbers that take that kind of leader fall and avoid
serious injury or death. The harness burned holes through my pants and left burnt
marks round my waist. My head had one small cut and my hands were sliced.
Otherwise, I was just hanging there upside down looking 15 meters up to my
belayer. I had missed the belay ledge and the large chock stone roof object on
the first pitch. I had missed both by just inches.

My belayer lowered me to the ground and I re-climbed pitch one. Although I knew I
needed to finish the objective in regard to my future psychological climbing health,
my belayer was in no such mood. I climbed back up and took out all the gear below
the piece that held, basically being top roped on the #7 Metolius that saved my life.
We were using a double rope system, so I had one piece left on a slack rope and
two pieces on the rope that took the fall. My belayer’s pro (a bomber curved nut) even
became jammed into the rock due to the upward force exerted on the belay.

3rd and 4th Pitch- Supposed to be easy and look it when you step back from the
route. Guess I won’t know until the next time I get out there which will be soon if for
no other reason than raw curiosity about this route.

Descent
We descended by the ascent route that would be described in the guidebook, albeit
not well. We zig zagged down a loose ridge that runs to the West Face. There is one
rappel set up that my partner used, however I down climbed that section. Continue
descending west aiming for a pinnacle of sorts that sits directly on the western col.
Once off of this ridge, descend immediately left onto loose scree back to the Watch
Tower drainage. We descended the left bank of the Watch Tower Creek which works
fine. Either side is about the same.

Essential Gear
One 60 meter rope works on ascent of this route, although I believe the double rope
system probably saved my life regarding my particular mistakes this day. Take a full
set of cams and double up on #7, #8 and any larger BD’s to use in that corner on
Pitch 2. Larger hexes would work as well. Full set of curved nuts. Harness, shoes
and helmet.

You cannot bike on the Lake O’Hara road. We did, not knowing this, and had our
bikes impounded by a disgruntled Parks Canada employee because she almost ran
us over. Her “friend” at the wardens office also fined us $115 each for disobeying
restricted use on Park land. So a warning: ride your mountain bikes over the pristine
flowers and natural vegetation, but don’t dare ride your mountain bikes on gravel
roads full of bus fumes, particularly if the bus shuttle is a profit center for several
private concerns.