Wall Street Technical Rock Climbs

Lat/Lon: 38.5583°N, 109.5896°W- CLICK FOR TOPO MAP
Wall Street is an immense 500’ high Wingate sandstone cliff group located 10
minutes west of Moab across from the entrance to Arches National Park on Utah
Highway 279 (aka Potash Road). It is part of the Colorado Riverway Recreation Area
managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Moab field office (which
oversees almost six million acres).   Wall Street is the “drive thru” experience of rock
climbing. On the south side you have the Colorado River and on the north side you
have a campsite and many pull outs along different climbing walls. In all of my
travels I have never seen climbing with such quick access. You just pull off the road
and do a route, belay right from your vehicle, continue along and do another one.
Have your cooler, radio, dog and kitchen sink right with you.

Wall Street is comprised of the higher quality Wingate sandstone. Its cracks are
much more dependable than most of the rock I have climbed on in Utah National
Parks. The walls face east and therefore are shaded during the heat of the day, an
important feature during summers in Moab. They are coated with the “desert varnish”
(thick coating of iron and manganese) I have mentioned with Island in the Sky in
Snow Canyon State Park north of St. George, UT.

The over 100 established routes on the one mile stretch of Wall Street offer some of
the most diverse rock climbing found on any of my adventures, including friction
smears, pockets, huecos, nipples, flakes, in-cuts, roofs, face climbs with edges and
corners, etc.   Most of the routes are single pitch with rappel anchors. They vary in
terms of requiring gear for placement or being protected. The routes range from 5.5
– 5.12+ with a ton of 5.10’s and 5.11’s.

The Matheson Wetlands Preserve, located just a half-mile from Moab, provides
some of the best wetlands wildlife watching in Utah. It is the only major wetland
along the Colorado River in Utah. It is a critical 'steppingstone' for migrating
waterfowl, raptors and shorebirds.

Getting There
Wall Street is 10 minutes west of Moab. Head north out of Moab on US Hwy 191.
Take a left on Utah 279 (aka Potash Road). Drive on Utah 279 for several miles and
you will find yourself alongside the Colorado River. The Jaycee Campground is 3.75
miles from US Hwy 191 and the first routes of Wall Street are 4.4 miles.

Red Tape
There are no climbing restrictions or permit requirements for Wall Street. What is
the most dangerous aspect of climbing at Wall Street? The Potash mine trucks
that go whizzing by at abnormal speeds. We have camped at the Jaycee
Campground and noticed that they can run all hours of the night.

Rappel versus lowering whenever you get a chance to avoid producing rope
grooves in the delicate sandstone. Like all southern Utah climbing, sandstone
colored chalk is preferred if not required. Routes were originally put up near the
petroglyphs at the south end, but of course those routes are now off limits. There
is a tendency for poison ivy growth at the base of the walls.

Best eats and coffee, hands down, is the organic EklectiCafe at 352 North Main,
Moab.

When To Climb
The average high in July is 98F. The average high in January is 41F.   Moab is at
4000’+/- therefore the winter rock climbing can be a touch on the cold side
compared to southwestern Utah. Climbing in the middle of the day during the
summer in southern Utah is not recommended. Carry plenty of water regardless.
Afternoon thunderstorms are common from mid-July through mid-September.
Storms may produce waterfalls as well as flash floods. Sandstone is weak when
wet, so avoid climbing in damp areas or right after a rain.

Camping
The Jaycee Campground located at the east end of Wall Street is maintained by
BLM’s Moab field office. We have stayed here and it is a great location. You have a
pit toilet serving 7 sites as well as running natural water. The water is not potable,
but pretty damn warm in October for washing your face and feet. It runs off the back
cliffs (where it picks up heat) and they have actually made a little natural wash area
for the campers to use it.

The Jaycee Campground was self pay when we were there in 2005 at $10 per
night. It does not appear to be heavily used. We were the only party using the site in
October during great weather. The Portal Hiking Trail starts at the campground and
is a scenic trek. We did a moonlit hike on it and it is over 10K round trip as I recall.
It takes you to a view point area overlooking Moab and Arches National Park.

Mountain Conditions
The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Moab field office website has most
everything you need including trail conditions or closures, wildlife notices, weather
conditions, permit information, updated wildfire information, etc.

Routes
30 Seconds Over Potash
This route is a large left facing dihedral on the right side of a pull off 4.8 miles from
US Hwy 191 on Utah 279 (Potash Road).

This is one of my favorite routes on Wall Street. A classic for jamming and layback.
This route is straight up the crack, placing quite a bit of gear. I found my small and
large hexes handy on this one. Had a young man come down to us at another route
to borrow additional gear because he did not take enough up with him the first go.
You need some larger pieces here. It is an 80’ rappel.

Seibernetics
Seibernetics is one of the first routes at the northeast end of Wall Street. It is
approximately 4.4 miles from US Hwy 191 on Utah 279 (Potash Road).

Seibernetics is an obvious pitch up a right-facing corner. You have two pitons placed
in the lower section to get you to the crack and then use cams and nuts up the
corner. The rappel station is out onto the face a few meters. It is an 80’ rappel.
Please rappel versus lowering to save the route from scarring.

Snake's Slab
The Slab is a small bushy pullout right before one of the largest pullouts on Wall
Street 4.9 miles from Hwy 191 on Utah 279 (Potash Road). It is kind of a large
tongue to the left of a large gulley, canyon type break in Wall Street.

This is kind of a slabby friction climb up a fin of sandstone. Start out left side and
come out onto a well bolted face and head for the anchors. I used no gear on the
route. It is a 65’ rappel. I found this friction route much easier than similarly rated
crack climbing on Wall Street.

Top Rope Area
The left side of a large pullout on Wall Street 5 miles from Hwy 191 on Utah 279
(Potash Road).

Mostly slab or friction type climbs. The easier ones are to the left, a few 5.10’s are to
the right. To top rope, scramble up the middle. There is a good 5.10 smear next to a
tree on the right.   The group to the left are really good routes for beginners and are
pretty popular for that reason.

School Room Top Ropes
This area is further south from Seibernetics, 4.5 miles from US Hwy 191 on Utah 279
(Potash Road). It is the largest pullout on Wall Street.

This group is made up of slabs. A lot of straight forward beginner climbs.
These routes are mostly all bolted.

Essential Gear
A set of cams, nuts and some hexes. 60 meter Rope. Climbing shoes and harness.
Sandstone colored chalk, etc.

Trip Report
I have visited Wall Street twice, super area. Not a bad place to camp either (Jaycee
Campground). You won’t find more accessible and/or immediate climbing
anywhere. Good challenging routes too. Moab is a growing town. Lots to do and see
present day. Of course Arches National Park across the valley is a special place as
well. Cheers.