Mount Tyrwhitt Scramble

Lat/Lon: 50.58°N, 115.01°W
Mount Tyrwhitt is part of the Elk Range and is located on the continental divide (re:
Mount Isabelle, Storm Mountain and Mount Bosworth), therefore, on the border of
Alberta and British Columbia as well as Kananaskis Provincial Park (encompassing
over 4,000 square kilometers of foothills and mountains bordering Banff National
Park) and British Columbia public lands in the Canadian Rockies. Mount Tyrwhitt
was officially named n 1918 after a WWI Admiral, common for the mountains in this
region. Tyrwhitt was first ascended by the legendary Canadian climber Conrad Kain
along with Westmorland and Campbell in 1914. (Where the Clouds Can Go: The
Autobiography of Conrad Kain by J. Monroe Thorington)

Mount Tyrwhitt’s elevated start at Highwood Pass (7239’) and approach through
golden Larches make it one of the most scenic short routes in the Canadian
Rockies. Adding to its popularity is a most unique natural arch feature called the
“Window” found on its east ridge. The only published route up Tyrwhitt is the
moderate scramble and this route takes you right by this feature. You can schedule
this scramble for a short day and return on the east ridge, but I highly recommend
combining it with a traverse over to Mount Pocaterra and descend the route from
there making it a true cirque. You are treated to great views of the Height of Rockies
group, including Mount Joffre to the west as well as the Misty Range of Mount Rae,
Storm Mountain and Mount Arethusa to the east.

Getting There
Take the Kananaskis Trail (Highway 40) exit off of the Trans-Canada Highway
between Calgary and Canmore. Drive to the Highwood Pass day parking area at
7239’ (Highwood Pass Interpretive Trail) and park. Restrooms are at this location.
Kananaskis Trail is closed from December 1 through June 15, and I do mean with
a gate. The closure is at Kings Creek (Canyon), meaning no access to any of the
Highwood area mountains prior to June 15th.

In my opinion, this Highwood Pass area serves up the most scenic and accessible
high alpine foliage in all of the Canadian Rockies.

Red Tape
There are no permit requirements to enter, climb and/or park in Kananaskis
Provincial Park. This is active grizzly country however. Take bear spray. As of July,
2005, we have current trail closures in this area of Kananaskis due to a mountain
lion (protecting its kill) and grizzly with cubs (bluff charge). Therefore it is prudent to
check recent notices posted on the bulletin board outside of park headquarters
which you drive by on Highway 40 (Kananaskis Trail). If they are open, check in with
the ranger staff, they have tons of beta and are always friendly.

When To Climb
As with most climbs in the Canadian Rockies, the driest time is from June through
September. I climbed Mount Tyrwhitt in September and the route was free of snow.
There are no published backcountry ski routes on Mount Tyrwhitt, nor would I
suspect this to be a mountain worth skiing.

Camping
The closest camping is a backcountry site at Elbow Lake, 1.3 km in on Big Elbow
Trail back north a few kilometers off of Hwy 40. There are tons of camping options
further north at Kananaskis Lakes. You cannot camp outside of the marked specific
camping areas in Kananaskis. Refer to the Kananaskis Provincial Park website for
more information regarding camping and/or lodging.

Mountain Conditions
The Kananaskis Provincial Park website is a very thorough park website, including
trail conditions or closures, wildlife notices, weather conditions, avalanche
conditions, camping permits, whitewater conditions, etc. It is an excellent source if
you are going to spend any time here and comparable to any National Park website I
have used. Outside of the parks web site, Canadian Avalanche Association is also
useful, particularly for winter travel.

Route
This is a 2500’+/- ascent day (accumulated elevation gain is considerably more due
to lost and regained elevation).   Mount Tyrwhitt itself is a short moderate scramble,
the Pocaterra Traverse makes for a longer, two summit day that I recommend if you
make the effort to get back in this area.   The route is fairly straight forward except for
the descent of Pocaterra which will require route finding skills.   Park at Highwood
Pass and take the Highwood Meadows Interpretive Trail, making your first left on a
single track trail that follows the south side of the Pocaterra Cirque. You do not gain
much elevation here as you enter the cirque.

From within the Pocaterra cirque, proceed directly south straight up to the Grizzly Col
at 8500'. Take a breather and then continue up the east ridge of Tyrwhitt past the very
interesting rock arch feature (the Window) and to the summit. Despite its published
rating, I considered this summit an easy scramble and it took me just two hours from
the car. There was a summit register in 2003. Your views include Mount Joffre to the
west as well as the Misty Range of Mount Rae, Storm Mountain and Mount Arethusa
to the east.

After enjoying the summit of Mount Tyrwhitt, downclimb a rock step to the ridge
between Tyrwhitt and Mount Pocaterra.   Ride the scree down and around to the left
of the first problem and angle back right to the ridge.   You will lose 1000' before you
start gaining elevation again.   This part of the scramble becomes more moderate
with some narrow sections of the ridge.   Two hours from Tyrwhitt, I bagged
Pocaterra, which has two peaks and two registers?   On the way up, I noticed a
better descent then I discovered in the published route.   Return the ridge to 9000'
and a very unique gendarme and slip through the opening to the east side of the
ridge. You must have good route finding skills to take this route. There is also
objectionable hazard from rock fall, so speed would be essential.   Zigzag your way
down to the cirque on scree with one or two forced downclimbing spots and cross
back south to the trail in the Pocaterra Cirque.

Essential Gear-Alpine Ax if Snow Conditions Prevail, Helmet, Gaiters and Bear Spray

Trip Report
I did this traverse of two summits in 6 hours return, it is more of an 8-10 hr day
according to the published notes. Great high alpine as is always the case at
Highwood Pass. Of course doing this in September was a bonus to me because of
the Larches. I recommend this one. Good look at the backside of Joffre. Cheers!