Tombstone Mountain Scramble

Lat/Lon: 50.68°N, 115°W
Tombstone Mountain (not to be confused with a mountain of the same name in
British Columbia) sits in behind the Opal Range and specifically Mount Elpoca
located in the Highwood Pass region of Kananaskis Provincial Park which
encompasses over 4,000 square kilometers of foothills and mountains bordering
Banff National Park in the central Canadian Rockies.    Six officially named mountains
share this small range.    Dr. Dawson officially named Mount Tombstone in 1884 as
he perceived the slabs near the summit resembled tombstones.

Tombstone Mountain has a double summit and the only published route is a
moderate scramble that ascends the southern (true) summit, unofficially named
Tombstone South. The approach into this climb via the Big Elbow Trail is one of the
most scenic sub-alpine areas I have traveled through in the Canadian Rockies. You
are afforded good views of the Mount Rae Glacier from this approach as well.   This
scramble can be a full if not long day.   The summit view includes close ups of Mts.
Assiniboine, Sarrail and the Royal Group as well as tarns in the lush valley behind
Tombstone.

Getting There
Take the Kananaskis Trail (Highway 40) exit off of the Trans-Canada Highway
between Calgary and Canmore. Drive 12 km+ south of the Kananaskis Trail-
Kananaskis Lakes junction (gate) to the Elbow Pass parking area on your left.
Kananaskis Trail is closed from December 1 through June 15, and I do mean with
a gate.   The closure is at Kings Creek (Canyon), meaning no access to any of the
Highwood area mountains prior to June 15th, except by ski or bike.

Red Tape
There are no permit requirements to enter, climb and/or park in Kananaskis
Provincial Park. This is active grizzly country however.   Take bear spray.   As of July,
2005, we have current trail closures in this area of Kananaskis due to a mountain
lion (protecting its kill) and grizzly with cubs (bluff charge).   Therefore it is prudent
to check recent notices posted on the bulletin board outside of park headquarters
which you drive by on Highway 40 (Kananaskis Trail).   If they are open, check in with
the ranger staff, they have tons of beta and are always friendly.   Horses are allowed
and common on the trails used for this approach.

When To Climb
As with most climbs in the Canadian Rockies, the driest time is from June through
September. I climbed Mount Tombstone in August and it was in dry condition. There
are no published backcountry ski routes up Mount Tombstone nor would I suspect
this to be a mountain worth trying to put up a ski route due to the narrow ridge.

Camping
The closest camping is a backcountry site on approach at Elbow Lake, 1.3 km
from the parking area on Big Elbow Trail.    There is another campground 6.8 km
from the parking area on Big Elbow Lake Trail called the Tombstone campsite. There
are tons of camping options further north at Kananaskis Lakes.   You cannot camp
outside of the marked specific camping areas in Kananaskis. Refer to the
Kananaskis Provincial Park website for more information regarding camping and/or
lodging.

Mountain Conditions
The Kananaskis Provincial Park website is a very thorough park website, including
trail conditions or closures, wildlife notices, weather conditions, avalanche
conditions, camping permits, whitewater conditions, etc. It is an excellent source if
you are going to spend any time here and comparable to any National Park website I
have used. Outside of the parks web site, Canadian Avalanche Association is also
useful, particularly for winter travel.

Route
This is a 4000’+/- ascent day. Travel 4-5 kms north on Big Elbow Trail from the Elbow
Pass parking area and around the west side of the lake.   These kilometers are very
pleasant and quick.   You will be in clear view of Mount Rae’s Glacier on your right.
Once you are past Mount Elpoca on the left, Mount Tombstone dominates your
northern view.   Do not wait until you are even with the southeast ridge to dispense
with the trail (you have 3000’ of vertical gain to reach the summit from this point).
Go ahead and angle off towards the ridge through open meadows and eventually
bushwhack through some firs to reach the base of the southeast ridge.   I made it
more difficult as I ventured to far east below the ridge top, therefore, having to free
climb 5th class rock to the ridge itself.

Once you have gained the ridge, there will be a multitude of narrow sections and
small rock bands, but nothing overly demanding for a moderate scramble. This is a
longer ridge than what depth perception would lead you to believe.   There is one
steep section at about the middle where you traverse to the east (right) to avoid
cliffs.   It was here that I observed a Broad-Winged Hawk take flight at 9000' from the
ridge. The real summit is actually the 2nd highpoint you come to.   There was a
register log in place in 2003.   You have steep views of Tombstone lakes and a good
view of the east face of Mount Assiniboine along with Mts. Lyautey, Sarrail, Beatty and
Rae.

On descent, return to the col between the two summits and run down the coarse
scree and talus to the valley below. Stay to the right of this deepening runoff canyon. At
the bottom, right before thick forest, there is a trail that leads back south, but you will
have to bushwhack off of it at some point to head southeast back to the Big Elbow
Trail. When you look back at the summit, you can now tell where you were and how it
got its name.

Essential Gear-Alpine Ax if Snow Conditions Prevail, Helmet, Gaiters and Bear Spray

Trip Report
The 4-5 kilometers on Elbow Trail from Elbow Pass are very pleasant and quick. I
made it more difficult as I ventured to far east below the ridge top, therefore, having to
free climb to the ridge itself over 5th class terrain. I observed a Broad-Winged Hawk
perched at 9000'. It took me 2:15 from when I left the trail to reach the summit,
nonstop, over 3000' vertical gain. The real summit is actually the 2nd summit you
come to. There was a register log in 2003. When you look back at the summit, you
can now tell where you were and how it got its name. Wife, dog and horse went in
with me and grazed in the open high alpine meadows while I climbed. Splendid day. I
love this area in general.