Tangle Ridge Scramble

Lat/Lon: 52.3°N, 117.28°W
Tangle Ridge is located in the Columbia Icefield section of Jasper National Park
directly across the Icefields Parkway from the second highest mountain in the
Canadian Rockies, Mount Columbia. But the views don’t stop there. Between
Columbia and Tangle Ridge lay Mount Kitchener and Snow Dome. In clear view to the
southeast are the popular climbs Mts. Athabasca and Andromeda. Sharing the same
valley with Tangle Ridge are the aesthetic Nigel and Wilcox Peaks. Behind Tangle
Ridge to the north is Sunwapta Peak. Tangle Ridge was officially named in 1907 due
the difficult experience some early parties had descending Tangle Creek to the north.

The only published route on Tangle Ridge is the easy scramble up south slopes via
the Wilcox Pass Trail. The only variation is in the descent. Despite 3800’ in elevation
gain, this is one for non-climbers. Many photographers grab this opportunity to get to
10,000’ in the Icefields without technical difficulty. That being said, the weather in this
section of the Columbia Icefield is fickle, thus, waiting for a clear day with clear views
could try your patience and available time.

As with all high alpine in the Canadian Rockies, Tangle Ridge is not a bad place to
identify a wide assortment of flora. On our trip, we nailed many a species, including
White Cama Lilies, Bracted Lousewort and Indian Paintbrush in all shades including
yellow & burgundy, as well as alpinized strains.

Getting There
The Trans-Canada Highway dissects Banff National Park east to west as you come
in from Calgary. Continue past the Banff and Sunshine Ski Resort exits to Lake
Louise. Exit onto the Icefields Parkway. Drive 130 kms+/- northwest to the Columbia
Icefield Center. Continue for approximately 7 kms to the Tangle Falls parking area on
your left (falls on your right). There are rest rooms at this location.

There is a park kiosk as you enter the Icefields Parkway which serves as a forced
stop to check park driving permits which you should already have. The Icefields
Parkway is probably the most “wildlife viewed” road in all of North America. I have
witnessed moose and bear crossing the road in this area. I advise following the
speed limit for that reason. We encountered a black bear crossing the parkway at
Mosquito Creek in 2005.

Red Tape
You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter the parks via
Banff, Jasper or Rocky Mountain House. This pass is good for all four national parks.
If you plan many visits to Canadian National Parks within one year, you should
purchase an annual pass. There are no permit requirements to climb in Jasper
National Park, but all camping is regulated. There is also a backcountry permit
required if you plan on spending a night in the backcountry versus the town
campsites. This can be obtained via the parks website which is included in the
camping section below. Park headquarters are located in Banff and Jasper and you
will drive through the manned kiosks as you enter the parks from any direction.

This is active grizzly country, therefore, you should always have bear spray on your
person. I advise checking with Parks Canada for any area and/or trail closures.

When To Climb
As with most climbs in the Canadian Rockies, the driest time is from June through
September. I climbed Tangle Ridge in July and it was in dry condition. There are no
published backcountry ski routes up Tangle Ridge, but it would make for a nice ski
outing. I highly recommend giving it a go via backcountry skis.

Camping
The closest camping is located back east eight kilometers at the Columbia Icefield
Campground located on the north side off of the Columbia Icefields Parkway. You can
go on line at Jasper National Park to pick your camp site and obtain your camping
permit. You will also be required to obtain your backcountry permit, if you are going to
use a backcountry site, which is separate, but can be obtained simultaneously.

Mountain Conditions
Jasper National Park’s website has weather, wildlife reports, trail closures, etc.
Outside of the parks web site, Canadian Avalanche Association is also useful,
particularly for winter travel.

Route
This is a 3800+/- ascent day.   From the Tangle Falls parking lot, cross the road and
gain the Wilcox Pass trail on the right side of the falls. This trail follows the road for a
bit and then heads north into the forest. Follow this trail for approximately 30 minutes,
passing an old log cabin site en route, until you are level with Tangle Creek on your
left.

You are looking for a perpendicular, mostly dry, drainage on the other side of
Tangle Creek that heads northwest up Tangle Ridge.   In 2005, this juncture was
well marked with a cairn.   Follow this drainage northwesterly on the left bank.   At first
there is not much of a trail, eventually a light trail does form and was well marked with
cairns in 2005.   Proceed steeply up the left side of what is now turning into a well cut
canyon that flanks Tangle Ridge’s east slope.   Continue to ascend above tree line
and into a beautiful high alpine setting.   Now the broad scree/talus slope up to
Tangle Ridge comes into full view. Any sign of a trail fades out, but at this point you
are simply aiming for the ridge staying out of any corniced snow that remains on your
right side.

After climbing over 100 mountains in the central Canadian Rockies, I have never
found scree to be as pleasant to travel on as this.   The soft ground and thin layer of
loose shale make for firm footing as you ascend to the summit at almost 10,000’.
Along the way you will find small pockets of thick moss seeping droplets of water like
an oasis in the middle of the desert.   This is also the first time I ever caught a bird of
prey actually digging at a squirrel hole.   She/he was so shocked of our presence, that
it lost a feather on retreat.

Proceed to the summit, which has a solar powered repeater (no shelter, just a tower
and tank). Now it becomes apparent why there were so many cairns built on the
approach.   This summit serves as a photographers dream. We had the summit to
ourselves as dark clouds were the norm.   Despite the cloud cover, views of Mts.
Nigel, Wilcox, Kitchener, Snow Dome, Athabasca, Andromeda and Sunwapta filled
the sky.   Do not venture out onto the glacier to the north.   There was no summit log
in 2005.

On return, we chose to descend the summit due south.   If you have visibility to the
parkway, aim east of a road maintenance facility you can see before you approach
tree line.   We found the forest to be amiable (read not much bushwhacking) and
found breaks through small rock bands when we needed them.   We came out just
skier’s right of Tangle Falls, at our parking lot.

Essential Gear-   Hiking Poles, Bear Spray

Trip Report
Lazy day out, something for the family and dog. The views are why you do this one, but
good luck finding a totally clear day. If you are a photographer, go in the morning
hours. My optional descent can be fast and furious. Kane gives this 4-7 hours in the
book. Even with my non-climbing crew (wife and dog), we did it in 4:20. Cheers!