Stuart Knob Scramble

Lat/Lon: 51.3333°N, 115.9583°W- Click for Topo Map
Stuart Knob (not to be confused with Mount Stuart in the Kootenay River Valley) is
situated between the Castle Mountain massif and Helena Ridge in Banff National
Park, one of four connecting national parks in the heart of the Canadian Rockies.
Stuart Knob was officially named after the son of the geologist who discovered the
Burgess Shale fossil bed. Stuart Knob is a highly visible peak from the Trans-
Canada as one approaches Castle Mountain from the south. It is a sharp feature
further in and to the right of the Castle Mountain massif itself. Stuart Knob stands at
the head of an impressive high valley full of mountain sheep. This is one of my
favorite locations in the park and has a certain desert type remote feel to it.

The only published route up Stuart Knob is the moderate scramble that is best
combined with an ascent of Television Peak as well, making for a long day. The
same approach via Rockbound Lake is used for Television Peak, Castle Mountain
and Helena Ridge. Although there is not a published alpine ski route up to Stuart
Knob, there is one to ascend Castle Mountain. Stuart Knob could make a grand ski
day in appropriate conditions, but you would have to climb the final summit ridge with
crampons and tools. The views are typical for the area, including Mount Bell, Mount
Temple, Storm Mountain, Copper Mountain, Pilot Mountain and Mount Ishbel.

Getting There
The Trans-Canada dissects Banff National Park east to west as you come in from
Calgary. Drive to Castle Junction 31kms west of Banff via either the Trans-Canada
Highway or Bow Valley Parkway (more Elk to be spotted along the Parkway). From
Trans-Canada, take the Castle Junction exit and proceed east under a bridge (huge
nest on the bridge houses an Osprey who has raised young every year I have lived
here) and turn right at the stop sign and pull into the Rockbound Lake trailhead on
your left. From Bow Valley Parkway, Rockbound Lake trail head will be on your right
before the Castle Junction gas station.

Red Tape
You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter the park. This
pass is good for all four national parks. If you plan many visits to Canadian National
Parks within one year, you should purchase an annual pass. There are no permit
requirements to climb in Banff National Park, but all camping is regulated. There is
also a backcountry permit required if you plan on spending a night in the backcountry
versus the town campsites. This can be obtained via the parks website which is
included in the camping section below. Park headquarters are located in Banff and
you will drive through the manned kiosks as you enter the park.

This is active grizzly country, therefore, you should always have bear spray on your
person. I advise checking with Parks Canada for any area and/or trail closures.

When To Climb
As with most scrambles in the Canadian Rockies, the driest time is from June
through September. I chose to climb Stuart Knob along with Television Peak in
October and snow was plentiful. There are no published backcountry ski routes for
Stuart Knob however the majority of the scramble route is conducive to back country
skiing.

Camping
If you do Stuart Knob and Television Peak as a full traverse, there is actually a
campground at the beginning and one at the end. You basically start at the Castle
Mountain Campground and end at the Protection Mountain Campground. You can go
on line at Banff National Park to pick your camp site and obtain your camping permit.
Two other options are the Johnston Canyon Resort and Campground several
kilometers south on the Bow Valley Parkway and the Castle Mountain Hostel located
at Castle junction. You will also be required to obtain your backcountry permit, if you
are going to use a backcountry site, which is separate, but can be obtained
simultaneously.

Mountain Conditions
The Banff National Park website has weather, wildlife reports, trail closures, etc.
Outside of the parks web site, Canadian Avalanche Association is also useful,
particularly for winter travel. Canadian Alpine Accident Reports is also extremely
relevant.

Route
This is a 6400’+/- (total) ascent day. It only makes sense for those serious in the
sport to combine Stuart Knob and Television Peak for a long traverse. However, the
descent on Television Peak at the end of the day borders on difficult status relative to
route finding and down climbing confidence. The traverse will also place you
13kms north on the Bow Valley Parkway from whence you began.

From the parking area, proceed up Rockbound Lake Trail to its terminus at
Rockbound Lake (9kms). You will bypass Tower Lake on your left. This whole area
becomes an incredible setting below the Castle Mountain massif.

Flank the lake to the east and ascend the tree covered east side below Helena
Ridge. There was a cairn as well as a decent trail to follow up this steep terrain in
2004. Once on a horizontal ledge, start your trek northward and up onto a rocky
plateau above the lake at 8000'+. I enjoyed the company of three large rams (photo)
in this isolated terrain. Continue due north for the left corner of Stuart Knob which is a
far north extension of the Castle massif itself. Angle your way below Stuart Knob up
towards the left corner of the summit block and start ascending the west ridge. The
west ridge is enjoyable hands on climbing however beware of ice during colder
conditions. It is a wind blown summit block with no surrounding peaks offering
protection. There was a register in 2004 and the 360 degree exposed view is
tremendous. It took me a fast 4.5 hours to reach this summit.

Proceed north along a broad ridge up and over the first hump and then angle
westward for a notch in the northeastern corniced ridge of Television Peak. You will
notice the repeater station towers of the summit reflecting the sun (on a sunny day).
By angling westward early, you can avoid the elevation gain and loss of the last
bump on the north extending ridge between the two mountains. You will find the
hiking along the black shale pleasant going. Traverse over to the notch (where I
crossed paths with a mountain lion-photo) and ascend leftward along the summit
ridge to Television Peak. This will be a 1000' hump. Beware of the cornices early or
late in the season. This is a northeastern ridge and thus I was post holing much
of the way in October.

On the summit, you will find an equipment bunker, not unlike Mount Stephen's
weather station, kept warm and water stored for emergencies. This is a broad
summit with a summit register and views abound at approximately 10,000' including,
but not limited to Mount Bell, Mount Temple, Storm Mountain, Copper Mountain, Pilot
Mountain and Mount Ishbel.

Now comes the crux of the traverse- route finding and down climbing 5000' on
the southwestern side of Television Peak.   Although the original look or two can
appear harrowing, I rather enjoyed this challenge, particularly the quality of rock I
encountered.   I kept southwest, moving to my left, down climbing some solid rock
until I dropped into a drainage gully that led into tree line practically all the way down
the mountain. I broke my hand in this drainage on a ridiculous fall, but otherwise, this
is a pleasant descent. Follow your compass due west and you will emerge from the
jungle at Protection Mountain Campground some 13 km from the Rockbound Lake
trail head. I suggest that you park your bike here to begin with or take your chances
with thumbing it or enjoy the long walk back under clear skis and a full moon as I did.
It took me over nine hours (fast paced) to complete the traverse, not including the
13kms back via the road.

Essential Gear
Compass, Bear Spray, Helmet, Alpine Ax, Gaiters, Significant Water, Solid Wind
Layer (Stuart Knob is exposed) and Possibly a Bike depending on your plan.

Trip Report
The family, including horse and dog, followed me in to Tower Lake. I proceeded on
without them via a clear and crisp October day with not another soul in sight. It is
incredible above Rockbound Lake. I enjoyed the company of three large rams. This
is very unique, open and exposed terrain. I crossed a mountain lion’s path at the col
below the northeastern ridge of Television Peak, broke my hand on a stupid fall on
descent and ended up hiking out in the pitch dark. Make sure to allot enough daylight
for this one. Wife picked me up after I humped back down the road a ways. THANKS!