Storm Mountain (Banff)

Lat/Lon: 51.2°N, 116°W
Storm Mountain (Banff), not to be confused with a mountain of the same name in
Kananaskis, is an objective that can be scrambled or skied from the southwest,
climbed up the east ridge (Alpine III 5.6) or climbed via one of the consistently
challenging mixed routes in Banff National Park, the North-East Face (Alpine V 5.9 A3).

Storm Mountain is located on the continental divide in the Bow River Valley opposite
Castle Mountain. Its summit lies on the border of Kootenay and Banff National Parks and
thus Alberta-Bristish Columbia. It was named in 1884 and first ascended in 1889 by
Drewry and Wilson. There are two Storm Mountains within 100 km of each other named
by the same man for the same reason! Storm Mountain is normally covered in clouds as
storms move across the Divide. They are also practically the same height, however, this
Storm Mountain definitely serves as a better postcard. I have been to both summits. I
warn you now, I have few photos as I was under objectionable hazard pressure for most
of my summit day.

Getting There
Banff National Park is one of four connecting National Parks in the heart of the Canadian
Rockies. The Trans-Canada Highway dissects Banff National Park east to west as you
come in from Calgary. Bypass the Banff town exits and proceed to the Castle Junction
Exit on Highway 93. Head southwest through the unmanned gates (this road is subject
to periodic closures). Dependant on which route you do, will determine where you park
off of Highway 93.

Red Tape
You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter the park. This pass is
good for all four national parks. If you plan many visits to Canadian National Parks within
one year, you should purchase an annual pass. There are no permit requirements to
climb in Banff or Kootenay National Parks, but all camping is regulated. There is also a
backcountry permit required if you plan on spending a night in the backcountry versus the
town campsites. This can be obtained via the parks website which is included in the
camping section below. National Park headquarters are located in Banff and you will
drive through the manned kiosks as you enter the park.

This is active grizzly country, therefore, you should always have bear spray on your
person. I have crossed paths with a black bear sow and her cub on Vermillion just west
of Storm.

When To Climb
Due to the mixed climbing option and skiing option, you can ascend Storm Mountain any
time of the year. Keep in mind its name however. I skied to the summit in April.

Camping
You can go on line at Banff National Park to pick your camp site and obtain your camping
permit. The closest camping is back at Castle Junction at Castle Meadows. There is
also the Castle Mountain Hostel at that junction.

Mountain Conditions
Banff National Park’s website has weather, wildlife reports, trail closures, etc. Outside of
the parks web site, Canadian Avalanche Association is also useful, particularly for winter
travel.

Routes
Scramble Southwest Slopes
Alpine Ski Southwest Slopes
East Ridge III 5.6
The most prominent line on the mountain, and apart from the stagger up the talus
slopes on the N ridge, it is the most popular route on the mountain. There may be snow
on the upper parts of the climb and an ice axe and crampons may be necessary.
North-East Face V 5.9 A3
This was a fine first ascent of a difficult route in winter by two young alpinists over four
days. Between the E ridge and the N ridge of the mountain lies the NE face with a
prominent gully running up the lower half of it. The route follows the gully, then negotiates
the rock band above via some difficult climbing.

Alpine Ski Route
This is a 5200’+/- ascent day. Proceed southwest on hwy 93 past Storm Mountain Lodge
and the Fireweed Trail Head parking lot. Look for a low angled natural ski run on the east
side of the road. Park on the west shoulder. This is not an avalanche chute, but rather a
path of deadfall caused by fire.

Skin up the left side of this feature for about 800' to the top. Pay attention for a wide trail
cutting through the trees on your left. Take this road of least resistance until you are
directly below a drainage. Continue southwest up this drainage to above tree level. The
avalanche risk on your right is extreme. Stay in the trees or move fast if skirting the
trees. The day I went in, the avalanche show was quite exceptional. The noise itself was
mentally taxing.

Break out of tree line and stay to the left of this high valley to avoid ice fall from the steep
cliffs on the right. Continue through to the cirque at the head of this upper mountain
valley. Once it narrows, start ascending to the left. This is the crux of the danger on this
trip. There are cornices, larger then you can determine from below, hanging over your
head for the next 1000'. The sun and wind really works these cornices. I zig zagged my
way directly under this hazard, skiing out of several small point avalanches. My advice is
to ski along a bench lower down and ascend directly to the visible scree, east of a cliff
band. In other words stay lower longer than one is tempted. Once out of harms way, I
took off the skies and traversed right over some steep snow to the final wind blown scree
ascent, another 1000' to the uneventful summit. Of course a blizzard moved in on me at
the summit. Beware of the summit cornice, it appeared someone was foolish enough to
have stepped out on it. Descend the same route.

This was a full on back country ski outing. I don't recommend this mountain in the spring
with persisting avalanche conditions. It was a mistake for me to choose this route on this
day. The objectionable hazards were significant for a solo trip.

Essential Gear
Backcountry Skies and Skins/ Beacons, Avalanche Pole and Shovel (unless going solo).
This is a cold and windy summit, so plenty of clothes.

Trip Report
I could have had tons of cool shots of huge avalanches but was never willing to pause.
Instead, I chose to make this a marathon ski, feeling somewhat threatened the majority
of the time. So the 6.5 hours I took to complete the trip will be a bit fast. On descent, I had
little visibility but thanked the cooler temperatures that moved in to hold those cornices.
The main obstacle to be avoided at this point was skiing into an ice/snow chunk the size
of a boulder due to poor visibility. I also chose to ski through the trees on the way out
which is always an event in and of it self for me. Once back to 6500' I could breathe again.

This concern could have been avoided if I had simply chosen colder conditions. The sun
and wind was really working over several significant cornices on the upper left flanks of
Storm Mountain this particular day. Although I almost exclusively travel solo, it is not a
good idea on any of these alpine trips. Cheers!