Sticky Revelations

Lat/Lon: 37.22833°N / 113.63806°W; Click for Google Map
Sticky Revelations is worth its own route page due to the vast number of variations
up this classic route on Prophesy Wall north of Saint George, Utah at 4200’. I have
done most of the routes on Prophesy Wall and without question, the better rock is at
the west end where Sticky Revelations is located. Sticky Revelations, Exodus
Variation, Book of Prophesy and All Decked Out can all be mixed and matched
to your liking. My recommendation is to always start the route with All Decked Out,
a sustained 70’ of 5.8 edging on solid varnish. Todd Goss’s “Rock Climbs of
Southwest Utah” is out of date regarding “All Decked Out”. He labeled it R/X and “a
lesson on how not to bolt a sport route”. Somebody, probably Todd, has bolted
it straight up since, 9 bolts to anchor.

After All Decked Out at 5.8, you have several 2nd pitch options, both of which are
great 5.8’s. Straight up is a bolted 5.8 that leads to the 5.10a third pitch of Sticky
Revelations or to the left is a classic trad 5.8, Book of Prophesy, up a crack
corner pitch that also takes you to the third pitch of Sticky Revelations. Or you
can exit from the top of either of these 2nd pitches via the Exodus Variation, a 5.3
traverse over to The Visionaries, 5.10c, rappel anchors.

Route Description(s)

Sticky Revelations – 3 Pitches- 5.10a/ The first pitch is a very easy 5.7 to a
substantial belay ledge to the right of a big trad corner (Book of Prophesy).
Then traverse out right for the start of the 2nd pitch which is a blast 5.8 up a
crack and over a flake. We combined these last two pitches, so 12 bolts to the
top of Prophesy Wall after the 1st pitch. Two raps with double 60m ropes,
three otherwise. The crux 5.10 move is left over a hollow flake towards the
top. Fun route, good training one. Can be a kind of a busy section of Prophesy
Wall on spring weekends though. (photos)
The Exodus Variation- 3 Pitches- 5.8/ This bolted 5.3 escape to the east of
the top of Sticky Revelation's 2nd pitch or Book of Prophesy and reduces the
overall route down to 5.8. Not worth doing (you have rap chains at the top of
the 2nd pitch options) unless you want to check out The Visionaires, 5.10c on
rappel.
The Book of Prophesy Variation- 3 Pitches- 5.8/ Buying into this variation
allows you to mix it up with a great trad corner-crack that leads to the same
location as the 2nd pitch of Sticky Revelations. Traverse left from whichever
route you chose for pitch 1 on a substantial ledge into the corner. There is a
belay/rappel station located here. The corner is easy to protect, but Todd
references small to medium pro, when in reality, you can place your #5
Camelot perfectly in a place where you would want it. On the contributing
route photo, I show where that is. Since I did not bring my #5, I placed my #4
in a spot where it probably would not hold making the top of the route
somewhat run out. This is a great pitch for training trad leading because you
must place two small nuts as well as at least one TCU along with your
Camelot’s. The crux is early and then face features to the right start to appear
making the pitch go at 5.8. You will pass one bolt further up as you enter the
white band of rock which is not worth protecting. This section is a little run out.
You have a station directly above for the continuation of Sticky Revelations or
you can go left to a station on a large ledge for the Exodus Variation.
All Decked Out- 3 Pitches- 5.8/ A sustained 70’ of 5.8 edging on solid
varnish. Todd Goss’s “Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah” is out of date
regarding “All Decked Out”. He labeled it R/X and “a lesson on how not to bolt
a sport route”. Somebody, probably Todd, has bolted it straight up since, 9
bolts to anchor. Tiny roof mantle in between. Then continue on any variation
you want for another 1-2 pitches.

Essential Gear
Double 60m ropes will get you to the ground from the top of Prophesy Wall via two
raps, no matter the location. You can make one rap from the top of either of the 2nd
pitch variations. There are mid rappel stations left and right. If you load up on draws,
like 15-20 between partners, then you will be able to combine quite a few of the
pitches if utilizing proper double rope management on lead. Remember, you are
several thousand feet higher than St. George, so if you are visiting Prophesy Wall in
the winter, bring a decent jacket. I have been pelted with hail in May! Some of these
routes are still quite loose. Helmets are never a bad idea. Bring your #5 Camelot,
smaller stoppers, #3 TCU and several other Camelot’s in between.

Notes: Climbed Sticky Revelations with Zach in March, then hit up another combo on
the route with Stacy in June. My recommendation is to start with All Decked Out no
matter, by far the best first pitch (like 4 to choose from). Then, since I like trad, I prefer
Book of Prophesy which is the nice crack/corner to the left. And finish it off with the
5.10a flake to the top.