Mount Stephen Scramble

Lat/Lon: 51.3986°N, 116.4333°W - CLICK FOR TOPO MAP
Mount Stephen is a landmark mountain along the TransCanada in Yoho National
Park, one of four connecting national parks making up the central Canadian Rockies.
Mount Stephen is directly across the road from Mount Burgess and rises over 6000’
immediately above the town of Field. The vertical relief is quiet daunting when you
are standing on the edge of town. Its northeast hanging glacier and eastern face
dominate views when traveling westbound on the TransCanada.

Mount Stephen is one of the few mountains requiring that you to pull a permit to
climb due to the abundant, but well protected, fossils found on its slopes (you literally
walk on them). The mountain is comprised mainly of shales and dolomites from the
Cambrian era, some 550 million years ago, a period that produced abundant fossils.

Mount Stephen has the unique distinction as the first mountain over 10,000’ that was
climbed in Canada (recorded). The first ascent was made by McArthur and Riley in
1887.   McArthur, a surveyor at the time, is considered by many to be the first
Canadian mountaineer.   Mount Stephen was named in 1886 after the first president
of the Canadian Pacific Railway.   Mt. Stephen House, constructed near its base in
1886, was the first hotel in the Rockies. That is a lot of “firsts”.

Mount Stephen has several published routes including rock, ice and a scramble. The
scramble up the southwest slopes to the summit ridge is considered an athletic
endeavor with difficult hands-on scrambling via the final 700’+/- to attain and
maneuver the summit ridge. The North Ridge route is rated Alpine III 5.7 and is one
of the longer routes (over 6000’) in the “Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian
Rockies”. Most of the climbing on this route is mid 5th class and a competent party
can still complete this route in a day. The quartzite rock is better than most in the
Canadian Rockies. Mount Stephen has seven recorded accident reports to date,
including 3 fatalities.

Getting There
The Trans-Canada Highway runs from Calgary through Banff and Yoho National
Parks on its way to Vancouver. Pass through Lake Louise heading westbound and
continue on the Trans-Canada on its way to Field, BC. Turn left into Field off of the
TransCanada. Cross the bridge and drive through the small town until you get to the
end of 1st Street which is the most southeast corner of town. There you will find a
trailhead with warnings regarding pulling a permit back at the Yoho National Park
office at the entrance to Field. So it is best to do this before you get to the trailhead.
There is no self permitting. If you want to start before 9:00 AM (when park
headquarters open), I advise you obtain this permit the day before.

Field is a town of approximately 300 people located in the Kicking Horse River valley
of southeastern British Columbia in the confines of Yoho National Park. Field was
established during the building of the Canadian Pacific Railway as a locomotive
depot for pusher engines required to help trains over the nearby Field Hill and Big
Hill. Field is 27 km west of Lake Louise along the Trans-Canada Highway, the only
access to Field. The visitor center for Yoho National Park is located in Field.

Red Tape
You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter Banff National
Park coming from the east on the Trans-Canada. This pass is good for all four
national parks. If you plan many visits to Canadian National Parks within one year,
you should purchase an annual pass. There are no permit requirements to climb in
Yoho National Park, but all camping is regulated. There is also a backcountry permit
required if you plan on spending a night in the backcountry versus the town
campsites. This can be obtained via the parks website which is included in the
camping section below. Yoho National Park headquarters are located in Field, BC
and you will drive through the manned national park kiosks as you enter Banff
National Park on the Trans-Canada.

This is active grizzly country, therefore, you should always have bear spray on your
person.   I advise checking with Parks Canada for any area and/or trail closures.
Removal of fossils is a punishable offense and park wardens strictly enforce it by
periodic checks.

I highly recommend eating at Truffle Pigs in Field. It is quite the experience in dining
and you will not be disappointed.   We always make the effort to dine there when we
are in the area. They also sell produce and groceries if you are camping.

When To Climb
As with most scrambles in the Canadian Rockies, the driest time is from June
through September. I climbed Mount Stephen in October. Skiing to the summit is not
plausible. A stubborn summit cornice can turn back an early or late scrambling
attempt.

Camping
The closest camp site would be the Kicking Horse and/or Monarch campground(s)
back east at the turnoff for Yoho Valley Road. You can go on line at Yoho National
Park to pick a camp site and obtain your camping permit. You will also be required
to obtain your backcountry permit which is separate, but can be obtained
simultaneously if you plan on camping at a backcountry site like Yoho Pass. You
cannot camp outside of the marked specific camping areas.

Field has one inn and several B&B’s.

Mountain Conditions
Yoho National Park has weather, wildlife reports, trail closures, etc. Outside of the
parks web site, Canadian Avalanche Association is also useful, particularly for winter
travel. Canadian Alpine Accident Reports are also extremely helpful.

Route
This is a 6300’+/- ascent day. You must register to climb Mount Stephen at the
Field Yoho National Park information center due to the fossil beds you will cross on
the trail. They open at 9:00 AM (2005). Park at the Mount Stephen trail head in the
town of Field at the end of 1st Street (southeast corner of town).   Ascend the trail for
several thousand feet beyond the fossil beds (tons of fossils).

The trail will peter out as you ascend steeper and rockier terrain. You will eventually
come across some easy red rock bands. Just continue to ascend northeasterly until
you top out onto a wide shoulder of Mount Stephen at 8000’. There is a built up bivy at
this spot.

Then turn due north (left) towards the mountain and ascend 400' up a gully through
another rock band. Travel another 1400' of large scree to the base of the summit
block. The last 700'+/- is the crux. There are several cairns and markings, but I just
soloed what I could find straight up the mountain, mostly about three to four 20
meter sections of solid rock (by Rocky Mountain standards) in the mid 5th class
range. I topped out onto the summit ridge and had to traverse over to the summit
which includes a weather station equipped with water, safety equipment, etc.
There is an exposed notch on the way over that you need to jump over to a short
rock face climb with a 5th class move or two. This step is not so difficult, but offers
an airy feeling making the transition.

Return the same, however, you will find safer down climbing options with the broader
view offered on descent.

Essential Gear
Helmet, alpine ax, bear spray, map, compass, some mini crampons and plenty of
water, mostly a dry route.

Trip Report
This is a tough mountain. I took 4.5 hours to the summit and 3 down, but that was in
solo hyper speed mode. It is a 6300’ ascent day. They leave the weather station at
the summit unlocked and fortified in case you run into an emergency. Don’t forget to
pull your permit before you reach the trailhead. Amazing, when they told me there
were fossils to be protected, I had no idea what they were talking about until I found
myself actually walking on them by the millions. Cheers.