Spearhead, Iron Messiah, Zion National Park

Lat/Lon: 37.26417°N / 112.95361°W- Click for Satellite Image
The “Spearhead” is one of Zion’s lesser known tourist identifiers. This is probably
due in some part to Spearhead being sandwiched by Angels Landing and Lady
Mountain which absorb so much more attention. How Spearhead got my interest
was that it features one of the finer free routes in Zion Canyon that takes you to the
top without aid. Iron Messiah, III, 5.10c, follows a classic dihedral/chimney corner
system to the top of the canyon directly across from Red Arch. Darren Cope and Jeff
Rickeri freed the route in 1988. Labeled a BYM route (bring your mama) by Alex
McAfee in “Zion Rock”, Iron Messiah is a must have for any free climbers visiting
Zion. Although McAfee labels Iron Messiah as an 11 pitch route, it goes in 7
pitches nicely, particularly with double ropes. Access does not get any easier, just
take the Grotto Shuttle stop or park at the Grotto parking lot if out of tourist season
(best time to visit). There are restrooms and drinking water at this location.

The name "Zion" meaning "place of refuge," was given to the canyon by Mormon
pioneers in 1919. The park is comprised of 229 square miles of protected
wilderness and is home to Kolob Arch, the world’s largest. Spearhead represents
the southern merge point for Cathedral Mountain and Mount Majestic.

Route Description(s)
Iron Messiah, III, 5.10c appears to be climbed as often as the much better known aid
routes in Zion, i.e. Touchstone, IV, 5.9, C2. If you read the summit log on
Rockclimbing.com, you can find nothing but praise for the route and a variety of
opinions regarding how many pitches it takes. McAfee has it at 11, but includes a
scramble pitch, he calls 5.4, but the Falcon Guide calls 3rd class. I tend to agree with
the Falcon Guide on this one. From there, both guide books reference 10 pitches,
but we combined 1 and 2 and 7 and 8 and recommend such with double ropes.
In either instance, you won’t have but a meter left on 60m ropes. There are two
crux pitches, 3 and 8. The crux of the third pitch is more of a reference to lack of pro
than difficulty. The crux of the 8th pitch is towards the top, which is also the end of the
dihedral. One of the most significant aspects not covered in detail in either of the
before mentioned guidebooks is the shade element. I climbed Messiah in June
during a 100F day and stayed reasonably cool due to the fantastic shade the corner
throws and the venting from the deeper chambers of the chimneys and cracks. By
“summer” afternoon, the shade expands covering much of your rappel route!

Getting There
From the bridge in Zion National Park, where you either continue to the east entrance
or turn left down the canyon, either drive or park and take the shuttle (during restricted
months) 3.3 miles to the Grotto parking area on the right hand side. Cross the road
and proceed across the pedestrian bridge to the north side of the North Fork of the
Virgin River and turn left on the well maintained Kayenta Trail. Follow the river's west
bank for a short distance looking for a cairned (2007) dry drainage (about your third)
on your right hand side that takes you up a much less definitive trail to the base of the
Messiah route which will have fixed protection (5 pins) up a varnished wall. You will
not see the dihedral/corner until you reach the top of the 2nd pitch.

Red Tape
You do not need a climbing permit but you will have to pay a National Park fee to
access the park. During tourist season, you will only be able to access the road by
shuttle. I always purchase an annual pass to US and Canadian National Parks. If
you are going to make more than four visits per year, I advise this option.

Zion National Park will have manned kiosks on Highway 9 and you will be required to
pay a US National Park fee ($25 per vehicle for a day/week pass, $80 for an annual
pass-2007) if you drive by them. Backcountry permits are required for all overnight
trips in Zion National Park, including climbing bivouacs. Climbing bivouac
reservations are available for Moonlight Buttress, Lunar Ecstasy, Prodigal Son,
Spaceshot and Touchstone climbing areas. The permit fees are based on group
size: 1-2 people: $10, 3-7 people: $15 and 8-12 people: $20. Reservations are
available for many backcountry trips in the park. A reservation does not guarantee
that you will receive a permit. Reasons that a permit will be denied include high
water, flash flood warnings, and wildland fires. Depending upon the backcountry
zone, 40%-60% of the total number of backcountry permits are available through
reservations. The remainder of permits are available as walk-in permits.

Some rock formations and routes are closed to climbing from March 1 to mid-July
each year to protect nesting peregrine falcons (at times this does include
Spearhead). Some areas that are routinely closed include the Great White Throne,
Cable Mountain, Court of the Patriarchs, and the Streaked Wall.

My favorite place for dinner in Springdale is the outdoor patio at Oscars. It also
appears to be the local’s favorite. Most of the staff is into climbing as well, so it is a
great place to plan your next climbing day and maybe even pick up a partner. Ask for
Zach. The Mean Bean across from Oscars is one of my favorite independent coffee
houses period. Ask for Joe.

When to Climb
Summer days are hot (95-110°F), but overnight lows are usually comfortable (65-70°
F). Climbing in the middle of the day during the summer in southern Utah is not
recommended (although that is when I climbed Spearhead=need my head
checked). Carry plenty of water regardless (I carried one liter=check my head again
please). Afternoon thunderstorms are common from mid-July through mid-
September. Storms may produce waterfalls as well as flash floods. Sandstone is
weak when wet, so avoid climbing in damp areas or right after a rain. Winter in Zion
Canyon is fairly mild. Winter storms can bring rain or light snow to Zion Canyon and
much heavier snow in the higher elevations. Clear days may become quite warm,
reaching 60°F; nights are often in the 20s and 30s. Zion roads are plowed, except
the Kolob Terrace road, which is closed in winter.

Camping/Lodging
There are two great campsites inside Zion’s south entrance. I have stayed at the
South Campground just inside the gates. The scenic spots are on the North Fork of
the Virgin River. This is a first come, first serve campground via self registration of
$16 per night in 2005. This is a popular park however and I advise booking a site
ahead of time at Watchman Campground if you think you are going during a popular
period. Facilities include restrooms, drinking water, picnic tables, fire grates, RV
dump stations. No showers are available at these park campsites but are available
at an in town private facility for a fee. There is also a 6-site primitive campground
called Lava Point, no water, no fee, and it is not open all year.

Springdale has tons of lodging options as well including a privately owned
campground right before the entrance to Zion National Park. If you demand the
luxuries of town, I recommend Majestic View Lodge. I have stayed here on several
occasions and the rooms are first class with great views. There is also the privately
run Zion Lodge which is in the heart of the park (and right across from Spearhead).

It is actually “illegal” in Zion to camp at the base of a climbing wall or in your
vehicle.

Iron Messiah, 5.10c, 10 Pitches
Iron Messiah is one of the finer free routes in Zion Canyon. It follows a classic
dihedral/chimney corner system to the top of the canyon directly across from Red
Arch. Darren Cope and Jeff Rickeri freed the route in 1988. Labeled a BYM route
(bring your mama) by Alex McAfee in “Zion Rock”, Iron Messiah is a must have for any
free climbers visiting Zion. Although McAfee labels Iron Messiah as an 11 pitch route,
it goes in 7 pitches nicely, particularly with double ropes.

Iron Messiah appears to be climbed as often as the much better known aid routes in
Zion, i.e. Touchstone, IV, 5.9, C2. If you read the summit log on Rockclimbing.com,
you can find nothing but praise for the route and a variety of opinions regarding how
many pitches it takes. McAfee has it at 11, but includes a scramble pitch, he calls 5.4,
but the Falcon Guide calls it 3rd class. I tend to agree with the Falcon Guide on this
one and we just scrambled up it in trail shoes quickly. From there, both guide books
reference 10 pitches, but we combined 1 and 2 and 7 and 8 and recommend such
with double ropes. In either instance, you won’t have but a meter left on 60m ropes.
There are two crux pitches, 3 and 8. The crux of the third pitch is more of a
reference to lack of pro than difficulty. The crux of the 8th pitch is towards the
top, which is also the end of the dihedral. One of the most significant aspects not
covered in detail in either of the before mentioned guidebooks is the shade element.
I climbed Messiah in June during a 100F day and stayed reasonably cool due to the
invaluable shade the corner throws along with the venting from the deeper chambers
of the chimneys. By summer afternoon, the shade expands covering much of your
rappel route!

1st Pitch - 5.9+/ Sport Route!? Yes, you start off on one of the finer free
climbs in Zion with five pins (I only saw two more the entire route) up a
varnish face. Don’t let appearances fool you on this one; this is a very pumpy
sport lead on crimpy varnish. You bounce back and forth, left to right and vice
versa on a sustained, but relatively short first pitch. I passed the station at the
top left to combine the first two pitches which worked well with good double
rope management.
2nd Pitch - 5.8/ I combined the first two pitches which takes your 60m
ropes to their max. If you did not manage your doubles properly, rope drag
would no doubt discourage you from combining these two as it does require
a sharp left hand turn. The climbing on this pitch is fairly laid back. Place a
few pieces as you overcome a short overhang section and pull yourself into
an easy going chimney. Placing gear is easy when and where you want until
you reach a tree belay at the top. Do not get sucked left onto a ledge about

¾’s of the way up where there are pins, those belong

to an aid route of

some sort.

Stay in the wide chimney until you reach a large treed

ledge

below the route’s dihedral above.

3rd Pitch - 5.10c/ Although mentioned as the crux lead in the Falcon
Guide, several, including myself disagree. Most concur that it is pitch 8. The
3rd pitch is one of the shorter pitches, but not one to combine. Maneuver right,
around the belay tree at the top of pitch 2 to the base of the wall. Wander up
an unprotected section of the wall directly below the dihedral (1st chimney)
into a sandy groove. You can protect the groove in about three spots, but
the marginal aspect of the protection lends to the pitches rating. The

5.10c section is short and kind of reachy. I thought the rating

should be a little

less severe. Another crux, albeit much more fun, is the start move it

takes to

access the first chimney. Once in the left facing dihedral, continue up easy

ground to a hanging belay on the wall to the left.

4th Pitch - 5.9/ I thought this was quite a bit easier than the 1st pitch sport
route, but then I like stemming, cracks and chimneys. I am not sure I would
rate this pitch any more difficult than pitches 5 and 6 even though it has a
more difficult published grade. Real aesthetic pitch up blocky fragmented
cracks that run parallel to the dihedral. Easy to place gear. Another hanging
belay to the left in a small indenture.
5th Pitch - 5.9-/ Called a 5.8-5.9 in the Falcon Guide, I thought this pitch
was as challenging as the 4th. The start is the crux, then it runs fairly smooth.
Now you are looking to enter the chimney to the right for a standing belay
versus hanging on the wall to the left.
6th Pitch - 5.8/ Fun but pushy chimney squeeze straight up and further
into the chimney. Keep your gear to the sides and scrape for every
conceivable feature to stem, squeeze and stuff yourself higher with. Hard to
place gear, but you can use your Camelot 4 and 5 and a pin awaits you as
you move out and on top of the chimney onto whitish/sandy rock. Turn

left and continue up past one bushy ledge to

the next for your belay. Stay left

versus right here to stay on route. The sandy and

loose section will give you

several gear placements.

7th- 8th Pitches - 5.10b/ It totally makes sense to combine these
pitches. It will use all of your 60m ropes, but it is straight up with minimal rope
drag. The crux route and most desired climbing/rock of the day. Takes some
time thinking about the unlocks here towards the top. Good gear
placements. You pass the pitch 7 belay station right away. Both belays are
standing ones.
9th – 10th Pitches - 5.10/ The real climbing (dihedral) is done at the top
of the 8th pitch. The last two pitches are wrestling moves. A short scramble
along the sandy gully to the right after you top out on the dihedral leads you to
what the Falcon Guide refers to as a sandy crack; I call it an ugly sandy
flake. Whip out your number 5 Camelot again and make an awkward move or
two to swing into the flake and climb it to the top with a belay station on a
large pine tree. It is best for both of you to scramble to the base of this crack,
so you can combine these last two pitches. The last pitch is a run out 5.4 to
the top which you can scramble to the summit.

Descent
Rap back down to the gully and then back to the top of the dihedral (top of pitch 8).
Then rap back to the top of pitch 6. Rap out left onto the wall (below and south of
the pitch 5 belay station) to a relatively recent bolted (2007) station that allows
you to only have to make one more rappel to reach the solid ground above pitch
2. This rap was also designed to keep your ropes out of the chimney and cracks. If
you don’t use this rappel station, you will have to make two rappels from the top of
pitch 5 to make the ground above pitch 2 with 60m ropes. From the top of the 2nd
pitch, move west beyond the tree to atop another ledge to find a rap station that
leads you down cleanly to the base of pitch 1. From there, use a tree rappel to take
you down the scramble section for 60 meters which lands you onto the faint trail
that will lead back down to Kayenta Trail.

Essential Gear
At least doubles from #.5 to #3 Camelots; one #4 and #5 Camelot each; at least one
#1, #2 and #3 Metolius TCU each, one set of stoppers/nuts; double 60m ropes. All
stations are fixed (2007). After the first pitch, you will only see about two pins. A shady
climb, but don’t underestimate your water needs, take 2 liters at least in the summer.

Notes: Way to hot, but what the hell, literally! A classic, really enjoyed it, but I love
dihedrals, chimneys and the like, particularly when it is hot. We combined 1 and 2; 7
and 8. Makes a lot of sense. Route goes relatively fast. Watch for that "out of order"
rap station that saves you a rap in my descent notes. Super day on the rock switching
leads with Zach, as always.