Solstice Wall, Woodbury Road Crags

Lat/Lon: 37.03056°N / 113.87°W
Solstice Wall is probably the most moderate wall in all of southwestern Utah.
Located in the tri state (UT, AZ and NV) climbing corner known as Woodbury Road
Crags, Solstice Wall collects tons of winter rays and can be very inviting during the
winter months if winds are tempered. The rock quality is the first I have seen of its
kind. It is called Kaibab limestone which features all kind of chert knobs, chert
pinches, crimps and odd finger pockets. Although these features look somewhat
suspect, the routes appear to have been climbed enough to be relatively clean
(2007). They are definitely well bolted and at least one guiding company uses this
wall extensively I believe. Many of the routes (6) are 100’ in length which is a far cry
from the 35’ers back in St. George at Black Rocks and Green Valley Gap. Of the
three walls at Woodbury Road Crags, the Solstice is the only one that receives
adequate sunshine in the winter. I would imagine it is unbearable during the
summer months. Most of these routes were developed by Todd Goss, Choli Ence
and Mark Hansen in the late 90’s. The approach looks longer than it really is and
thus why it took awhile for these sport climbers to “get ‘er done”.

The Solstice Wall is within the Woodbury Desert Study Area, a 3,040-acre community
of creosote bush, Joshua trees, bursage, and pinyon-juniper that has been closed to
grazing and is returning to its natural state. The Woodbury Study served as the first
ecological study of the endangered desert tortoise. Part of the largest stand of
Joshua trees in the northern extent of their range is found here but it is evident that a
recent fire (2007) has taken its toll on this unique vegetation. This whole area is part
of the Joshua Tree unit of BLM’s Utah wilderness inventory.

Solstice Wall sports 18 routes and is by far the most moderate climbing of the three
walls that make up Woodbury Crags, if not all of southwestern Utah. We discovered
this wall after trying to climb in the winter shade on Black and Tan. Todd Goss leads
you to believe in his guide book that the whole area is best to avoid in winter. But if
you read on to the specific description he gives for Solstice Wall, he describes it as a
good winter crag and we confirmed such. It is the first wall you get to of the three at
Woodbury Crags. The rock is extremely sticky and although tedious looking holds
(younger Kaibab limestone), most of the routes appear to have been well cleaned of
most weaknesses. However, I would still pay attention on lead. I know I pulled on a
few pieces more than once. I found the routes quite easy for the grade, perhaps due
to the fact I am just not use to so many feature options, particularly on 5.10 routes.

Route Description(s)
The Routes are Left to Right as you Face the Wall

The Fornications of Kings- 85’- 5.10a/
Catch 22- 85’- 5.10a/
Crimes of Passion- 65’- 5.9/ (Photos) Shares the same anchor as the next
two routes to the right. Seems easier than a 5.9. Tons of edges and pockets
through at least seven bolts to anchor.
Fall from Grace- 65’- 5.10a/ (Photos) Shares the same anchor as Crimes of
Passion. Went easy, but I think all the routes at Solstice do in comparison.
Usually 5.10’s don’t have more than one option, but all the cherts seem to
give you an endless supply. Nothing remarkable. Left leaning seam with
pockets through seven bolts to anchor.
Tricksy Hobbits- 65’- 5.10b/
Sea of Anarchy- 100’- 5.11d/
All the Kings Horses- 100’- 5.11c/
Eve’s Testicle- 100’- 5.11b/
Adam’s Ovaries- (project)
Vampires- 105’- 5.10b/ (Photos) Vampires is one of the 6 full pitch routes in
the middle of Solstice Wall. And I do mean full pitch at 105' sporting 14 bolts.
The further left on Solstice Wall, the cleaner the Kaibab limestone which can
be quite the hazard on the routes to the right. This is a harsh route on the
fingers. There is at least one small finger pocket that is a must, but hard to
find. That is the problem with this kind of rock face. Features all over, but not
necessarily positive, hiding the ones you must have on a 5.10b. Still a great
route through a small roof problem, but the crux is lower. Fairly sustained.
Bomber two ring anchor at the top (2007).
Token of Affection- 100’- 5.10c/
Behind the Beige Vinyl Curtain- 105’- 5.10a/ (Photos) Behind the Beige Vinyl
Curtain is one of the 6 full pitch routes in the middle of Solstice Wall at 105'
sporting 13 bolts. This is a fantastic route that makes you feel like you are
climbing forever on edges and neat finger pockets. Bomber two ring anchor
at the top (2007).
Chertin for Curtain- 55’- 5.10a/
Curmudgeons- 55’- 5.9/ (Photos) Shares the same anchor as the route to
each side of it. Nice edges and knobs through six bolts to anchor. Little testy
below the anchor, if you stay true to the route, which is fun.
Torsades de Pointes- 55’- 5.9/ (Photos) Shares the same anchor as
Curmudgeons. Better to leave a directional in at the top if someone wants to
top rope this route. Same for Chertin for Curtain. Six bolts to anchor. Traverse
over to anchor at end is the crux. Spoiled up to that point, then a little blank in
comparison. Definitely more challenging than Curmudgeons.
Quaker Oats- 75’- 5.9/
April Fools- 75’- 5.9/ (Photos) This route is not worth it in my opinion. First of
all, it is only a three bolt start different from an adjacent route, Quaker Oats,
5.9. And of those three bolts, we skipped the first one. Don't know what Todd
was thinking here. I don't like any of these routes to the right on Solstice. Here
the Kaibab limestone is loose and sharp. Too many good routes to the center
and left to consider these. The crux on this route is the scoop at that third bolt.
This is a harsh route on the fingers. Bomber two ring anchor at the top (2007).
Breakfast of the Damned- 50’- 5.7/
The Least I could Do- 50’- 5.6/

Getting There
Drive west out of St. George and through Santa Clara on Sunset Blvd approximately
11 miles to the Gunlock turnoff intersection. Stay left on old route 91 for another 14
miles plus. As you are descending towards AZ and NV, look for the BLM Woodbury
Desert Study Area sign on the left. Access for Solstice is less than 3 miles east from
the road and then turn left onto a 4 wheel drive road (most 2 wheels should make
this, no worries) for less than a mile. Solstice Wall is unmistakably on your left. There
is an old mine road that you can hike up towards the base of the climbs. Watch for
the open pit, there is no fencing or warning signs. It is imperative that you stay on the
existing trails (hard to determine at times) to avoid damage to the desert terrain,
damage that can last for much longer relative to other environs.

Essential Gear
One 60 meter rope should do you, there are nice 100’ routes, so don’t take a 50
meter rope. No gear necessary here. Most of these remote climbing areas around
St. George require at least some gear, not Solstice. This wall is fully bolted with
modern hangers and bolts into limestone. They feel a lot more bomber than pitons
in sandstone. I believe Paragon guiding comes out here and probably maintains the
wall. There are 14 bolts on one route! So bring plenty of draws.

Notes: Discovered this area first with Stacy, then took Zach back and did a few more
routes. This is one warm wall for the first part of February, not another soul climbing
on either trip back here. Fantastic line of long, well bolted moderate routes. Todd
must have one hell of a collection of drills.