Snow Canyon State Park

Lat/Lon: 37.1933°N, 113.6425°W
At 7100 acres Snow Canyon State Park is one of the best kept climbing secrets in
the southwest. While hoards show up at certain seasons to crowd the Red Rocks
scene in Vegas, during the same time one can find themselves to be the only
climbing party in Snow Canyon. This observation despite Todd Goss’s “Rock Climbs
of Southwestern Utah” listing 86 published routes in Snow Canyon, most of them
multi-pitch trad routes. I have been visiting this area for years.

Snow Canyon State Park rarely receives any snow and was actually named after
early Morman settlers Lorenzo and Erastus Snow who engraved their names on
several of the arches in the park in the late 1800’s. The park has something for
everyone featuring 12 trails that show off petrified sand dunes in the south end to
lava flows in the north end. Horse riders and road bikers (paved trail goes through
the park) make regular use of the park as well. The lone campground in Snow
Canyon State Park is second to none in my opinion.

What makes Snow Canyon seem larger than it actually is, is the fact that it is
surrounded by the Red Cliffs Desert Reserve, a 62,000+ acre scenic wildlife reserve
set aside in 1996 to protect the desert tortoise among other sensitive desert
species. Red Cliffs Desert Reserve is the cornerstone of three separate and distinct
ecosystems, the Mojave Desert, the Great Basin, and the Colorado Plateau. Due to
this unique merge, several endemic species, those which can be found no where
else in the world, are found in the reserve.

Mike Anderson, Matt Kindred, Ron Olevsky and John Tainio started establishing
routes in Snow Canyon in the late 1970’s. You will find plenty of dated pitons as
evidence. Snow Canyon became involved in the late 1980’s ethical battles regarding
sport versus trad and Utah State Parks finally imposed a moratorium on the
installation of new bolts in 1994. In 1998 a more reasonable plan was put in action
and now there is a process in place in which you can apply to the Parks to establish
a new bolted route if you so desire. As you can imagine they are pretty picky and that
is a good thing.

Routes
Snow Canyon State Park is made up of five distinct climbing areas:

Hackberry Wash- 8 routes from 5.4 to 5.11a. Hackberry is the warmest section in
the winter and probably one to avoid altogether in the summer. No real multi pitch
stuff, but you can combine a few routes through a big ledge. Area closed from
March 31 through June 1 for nesting raptors.

Island in the Sky- 64 routes from 5.5 to 5.12b. There is no question Island in the
Sky is the mainstay of the area. It is a significant piece of rock (small mountain)
situated at the south end of the park that is broken down into eight different sections
itself. In the winter it keeps you busy when many of the other spots don’t look so
inviting. The “walk off” to the north is better done as a three station rappel. Island
in the Sky features many multi pitch trad routes, but has sporty areas as well where
you can do single pitch after single pitch. There is a great mix of trad and fixed pro
routes from south to north. You climb the west wall of the island but it sports routes
on its southern end as well that get even earlier sun. This is not to be confused with
an objective of the same name in Canyonlands National Park.

Balkan Dome- 2 routes at 5.8 and 5.11d. This is a stand out dome feature on the left
side of the road across from Island in the Sky. Ledinski Declines, 5.8, is a fun short
route in the shade.

Enclosure- 7 routes from 5.8-5.11/A3. Probably the best place for summer climbing.
A true enclosure located behind the sand dunes, a sort of box canyon, enclosed from
the south. Uncle Reamus, 5.8, and Atomic Indian, 5.11, are excellent routes,
Raging Dude and Grinder are not.

West Canyon- 5 routes from 5.8-5.11c. Closed from February 1 through June 1 for
wildlife purposes. The longest approach to a climbing area in Snow Canyon to
access featuring a mile approach and a 7-pitch route called “The Cheese Stands
Alone”, 5.11b.

Trails
Whiptail Trail - 6 miles. Easy. Level with some slopes. Accessible to physically
challenged. Tucked along the canyon bottom, this sinuous paved trail is suitable for
walking, jogging, and biking.

Johnson Canyon - 2 miles. Easy. Level with some rocky slopes and steps. Leading
to a sheltered canyon of willow and cottonwood, this trail winds through lava flows
and red rock to an arch spanning 200 feet. Closed annually from March 15 to October
31

Jenny’s Canyon - One-half mile. Easy. Level with few slopes and steps. This great
children’s trail leads to a short, sculpted slot canyon. Closed annually from March 15
to June 1

Sand Dunes - One-half mile. Easy. Deep sand with some slopes. Trail leads to a
large expanse of red sand serving as a giant sandbox and play area for children of
all ages.

West Canyon Road - 7 miles. Easy. Gravel and sand surface. Fairly level. Trail
follows a maintenance road winding past dry washes and towering cliffs to the head
of present-day Snow Canyon.

Pioneer Names - One-half mile. Easy. Fairly level with some steps and slopes. This
crescent shaped trail passes pioneer names, written in axle grease, dating back to
1883.

Hidden Pinyon - 1.5 miles. Moderate. Rocky slopes and deep sand. Drop-offs. This
self-guided nature trail highlights geological features and native plants of the park.

Three Ponds - 3.5 miles. Moderate. Some rocky slopes. Deep sand. Trail winds
through sandy wash to mouth of a 400-foot canyon. Potholes eroded in sandstone
catch seasonal rain, giving the trail its name.

Petrified Dunes Trail - 1 mile. Moderate. Some steep slopes, uneven surfaces. This
trail crosses massive Navajo Sandstone outcrops where you may scramble and
explore sand dunes frozen in time.

Butterfly Trail- 2 miles. Moderate. Some steep slopes, steps and uneven surfaces.
Winding along the west side of Petrified Dunes, this trail leads to West Canyon
Overlook and lava tubes.

White Rocks Trail/Lava Flow Overlook - 4 miles. Moderate. Some rocky slopes,
uneven surfaces. Passing through lava flows, sparse juniper stands and
breathtaking views of West Canyon, trail leads to a natural amphitheater set in white
sandstone. Or reach the amphitheater on a 1-mile trail located one-half mile north of
State Route 18 junction.

Cinder Cone – 1.5 miles. Difficult. Steep slopes; loose, uneven surfaces. Located 1
mile north of Snow Canyon Drive / State Route 18 junction. Hike among “lava
clinkers” as you corkscrew 500 feet to the top of an extinct volcano where you can
view a volcanic crater and panoramic scenery.

Getting There
Take Bluff Street north out of St. George through Sunset Blvd and turn left on Snow
Canyon Parkway. Proceed for approximately six miles and turn right on Utah Route 8.
Drive three miles to the Ranger controlled entrance to the park. Once you pay your
entrance fee, continue on the park road and dependant on which routes you are
climbing will determine where you park. There are many options.

Red Tape
Snow Canyon State Park hours are 6:00am to 10:00pm. A day visit pass is $5.00 and
camping spots are $15.00 to $18.00 (2007). Wildlife seasonal enclosures as of
2007 include all Hackberry Wash routes from March 31 to June 1 and all West
Canyon routes from February 1 to June 1.

The sandstone rock at Snow Canyon State Park is not as solid as the lava influenced
Black Rocks. As with most of the climbing in and around St. George, you should
avoid climbing for at least 24 hours after any rain.

My favorite place for dinner is the sushi bar at Samurai, 245 Red Cliffs Drive. The
best breakfast/lunch and coffee can be had on Jazzy Java. The Outdoor Outlet is one
of my favorite independent climbing stores anywhere. They know the climbing area
well and have a great selection of gear at competitive prices.

When to Climb
The climbing is good all year round with the exception of daytime during the summer
months. If you are climbing anywhere in southwestern Utah during the summer
months, you more than likely better get up early and finish your climb early. The walls
get brutally hot. That being said, Snow Canyon is at a higher elevation than other
immediate Saint George climbing areas (Utah Hills being the exception). In the dead
of winter, the warmer climbing is limited to Island in the Sky.

Camping/Lodging
No climbing is allowed on the rocks behind the campground. Quiet hours are 10:00
p.m. - 8:00 a.m. Generator hours are 12 noon to 4:00 p.m. Shower hours are 4:30 p.
m. to 11:OO a.m. Check out time is 2:00 p.m. You are to renew your site permit by 10:
00 a.m. Maximum length of stay is 5 nights. Pets are permitted only on West Canyon
and Whiptail Trails and must be on leash at all times. Do not dump gray water at
sites, use the dump station by the restroom. Tents on tent pads only. Bikes on
pavement only. NO FIRES June 1- Sept. 15. Fires in grills/fire rings only. Firewood
gathering is prohibited. They have a volleyball court which is pretty cool. The
restrooms are first rate.

Sites 1, 2, 9, 10, 20, 21, 24, 26, & 27 cannot be reserved. Sites 1 - 14 are hookups
with water and electric. Prices are $15.00 - non-hookups and $18.00 -water &
electric. For reservations call 800-322-3770.