Sand Dunes Area, Island in the Sky

Lat/Lon: 37.1933°N, 113.6425°W
Snow Canyon is divided up into five separate climbing areas: Hackberry Wash,
Island in the Sky, Balkan Dome, the Enclosure and West Canyon. I have climbed in
all five and Island in the Sky has by far the most routes (64+) and is further divided up
into nine distinct walls with multiple routes ranging from 5.6-5.12b: Breakfast Nook,
Circus Wall, Aftershock Wall, The War Zone, The Dip Area, The Doghouse, The Sand
Dunes Area, The Indian Wall and the South End.

There are over 20 published routes on the various walls of Island in the Sky across
from the sand dunes in Snow Canyon which comprise the “Sand Dunes Area.” As of
June, 2007, I have climbed half of these routes. The walls in Snow Canyon are
comprised of soft sandstone and therefore climbing the same grades in Snow
Canyon compared to granite or limestone slabs or hardened sandstone makes the
grading somewhat stiffer by consensus. Many of the routes are a mixture of trad and
sport, with much of the sport portions relying on older pins versus bolts. Snow
Canyon is full of Red Navajo sandstone, capped by an overlay of black lava rock. This
process creates significant, but sometimes delicate climbing holds called desert
varnish. Wet or not, some varnish holds do give way from time to time. I have taken a
25’ whipper when one of these varnishes failed on a run out route in Sand Dunes.
I highly advise staying on the well climbed existing routes of Snow Canyon. If
they are dirty (thus unattended), I can assure you they are probably not worth it.

Access is very easy via the West Canyon day use lot within the park. Park and walk
across the road gaining the sandy wash below Island in the Sky and turn right
following the walls to the large loose ledges on your left across from the Sand
Dunes. Start scrambling at a right to left angle on slick rock.

Snow Canyon is exceptional in that most are climbing nearby Zion and Red Rocks
leaving it very quiet. Normally we are the only party climbing in the park and there are
over 200 routes. One could camp and climb here for a week and not get bored. It has
a significant state park campground.

The wildlife is a little different than what I am used to in Canada. The most likely
suspects are Gila monsters, desert tortoises, scorpions and the Mojave sidewinders
which I have seen up close. Please avoid walking on the microbiological soil. It is
the dark crust that holds the surface layers together and prevents erosion. It
takes centuries to reoccur. This whole ecosystem is much more delicate than most.

Route Description(s)

Rat Race – 5.9 – 2 Pitches/ Located by itself, starting from the canyon floor to
the right of the first and second tier sections of the Sand Dunes Area. Rat
Race is one of the worse routes in the canyon in my opinion. The first pitch
climbs a wide hidden and dirty crack up to the base of a significant arch. To
protect the crack into the arch, you will need large gear, up to a #5 Camelot.
Follow and protect underneath the arch as you work right to the apex and first
anchor. The second pitch consists of slab climbing past three bolts to anchor.
Nemesis – 5.10d/
Little Miss Demeanor – 5.10a – 2 Pitches/
Twist and Shout – 5.7/ Twist and Shout, as its name implies, is a fun route
that serves as a good warm up for the 2nd tier because you scramble right
past it on your way up. It is just to the right of the hand chain assist that takes
you to the 2nd tier on the Sand Dunes area. It is an easy one to top rope for
beginners. Involves a funky left traverse low on slab and horizontal cracks
past four pins to anchor, placing a few medium pieces of gear in a crack
further up to prevent run out if you so desire. You can walk off to the left and
down with the chain assist or rap the route or bring up the 2nd and continue
on to the 2nd tier routes.
Clairvoyance – 5.11b/
Closure – 5.11c/
Kibosch Buttress – 5.6/ Kibosch Buttress route follows left into the corner
and then straight up and back left out onto the face. It is an easy ramp and
varnish slab past seven pins to chains. Although the guidebook calls for
medium gear on this route, I felt comfortable not placing any. It also calls for
two raps to the ground, (90’?), but I used one rope and rapped down from two
pins used on the 5.11b Kibosch route. The photos are fairly descriptive.
Kibosch – 5.11b – 3 Pitches/
Little Nightmare Music – 5.8/ Start in the corner and place medium to large
gear in the crack as you protect textured moves. Once you get past the large
loose block stuck in the crack, move out right on unprotected ground to the
right edge of the roof and protect in the crack above as you mantle your way
up to a textured wall. Traverse back left onto a comfortable ledge with old pin
anchors. Use long runners/draws if you are going to top rope the route to get
your rope off of the edge. Traverse left via pins if you are going to continue on
for Full Metal Jockstrap.
Full Metal Jockstrap – 5.9R – 4 Pitches/ Do Little Nightmare Music for the
first pitch. The 2nd pitch is a funky long traverse left and up over 6-7 pins (not
4 as in the guidebook) until you reach a small standing belay at a two pin
anchor below pins that lead up to the third pitch. Everything is quite positive,
but typical exposure for a wall traverse. The crux and best pitch of the climb is
the 3rd. Sustained vertical straight up and trending right, hard to see pins at
times as they are quite spread out and rusted. Little if any opportunity for gear
with the exception of hooking a feature with a clove hitch here or there. More
run out towards the top versus the bottom. Nice thin positive varnish though,
makes it feel more like 5.8 vs 5.9. The 4th pitch is 5th class that can be easily
protected straight up to a big ledge. Traverse right past 2-3 pins to the
summit.
Will’s Rush – 5.5 – 2 Pitches/ We scrambled up this once to retrieve some
gear we left on Battle of Wills where I took a significant fall on lead and ripped
one of our double ropes. Supposedly the first route in Snow Canyon. A
snooze unless you are just starting out.
Extra Texture – 5.7R/ Start just left and below Stepping Out . Locate a pin that
you really don’t need and head up straight on easy ground through a corner
and locate the 2nd pin. From there start to traverse aggressively out left
aiming for the remaining pins as you spot them amongst the varnish which
can be a challenge. Eventually the angle eases up and it is a race to the
chains above and left of the cave. There are more pins that continue to your
left that represent Will’s Rush, the first established route in Snow Canyon. It
is not advisable to top rope Extra Texture without the draws in to protect a
fall. If one person is climbing, he/she will need to be lowered and re-climb
the route to clean it.
Stepping Out – 5.9 – 4 Pitches/ The first pitch is 50’ to chains. One pin low,
small to medium gear in the crack. Start right, crux move back left (5.9), easier
climbing to anchor. One of the best single pitches at the Sand Dune area.
The 2nd pitch is a 5.8 Friction slab through five pins to chains. The 3rd is 5.8
slopers through six pins to chains below large ledge. The 4th is one pin to
“intersection ledge” with two pin anchor. Climb chimney to south of ledge and
make three single rope raps to ground.
Battle of Wills – 5.9RX/ Nasty, unprotectable route in my opinion. Rarely
climbed, thus dirty and untested varnish. I ran the route out only to have a
piece give way (fully expected) and I fell a considerable distance ripping apart
one of our double ropes on the sharp sandstone flake (photo). Very aesthetic,
thus why I gave it a go. Up this large body consuming flake, then a tough
move out left onto the hollow structure to run up a thin crack to the sloping
finish. Don’t recommend trying it.
Prestidigitator – 5.10a – 5 Pitches/
Thousand Pints of Lite – 5.7 – 3 Pitches/
Gratitude – 5.10c – 4 Pitches/
Leopard Skin – 5.7 – 4 Pitches/ Move up the friction slab with the crux move
coming early on a short traverse right. Clip two pins on your way to the crack
above. Use a medium cam in the crack and proceed to a ledge above with
anchor. (5.7, 50’) Do a lengthy horizontal traverse right past four pins and up
to a two pin anchor. (5.7, 65’). Take the varnish slab holds straight up past
seven pins to a three pin anchor (5.6, 70’). More of the same past seven pins
to a sling anchor (5.6, 70’).
Stranger Than Friction – 5.8/
What’s New Pussycat – 5.10a – 2 Pitches/

Red Tape
Snow Canyon State Park hours are 6:00am to 10:00pm. A day visit pass is $5.00 and
camping spots are $15.00 to $18.00 (2007). Wildlife seasonal closures as of 2007
include all Hackberry Wash routes from March 31 to June 1 and all West Canyon
routes from February 1 to June 1. The sandstone rock at Snow Canyon State Park is
not as solid as the lava influenced Black Rocks. As with most of the climbing in and
around St. George, you should avoid climbing for at least 24 hours after any rain.
My favorite place for dinner is the sushi bar at Samurai, 245 Red Cliffs Drive. The
Outdoor Outlet is one of my favorite independent climbing stores anywhere. They
know the climbing area well and have a great selection of gear at competitive prices.
Jazzy Java offers a decent cup, good sack lunches and free internet.

When to Climb
The climbing is good all year round with the exception of daytime during the summer
months. If you are climbing anywhere in southwestern Utah during the summer
months, you more than likely better get up early and finish your climb early. The walls
get brutally hot. That being said, Snow Canyon is at a higher elevation than other
immediate Saint George climbing areas (Utah Hills being the exception). In the dead
of winter, the warmer climbing is limited to Island in the Sky. The Sands Dune area
routes gets solid afternoon sun.

Camping
No climbing is allowed on the rocks behind the campground. Quiet hours are 10:00
p.m. - 8:00 a.m. Generator hours are 12 noon to 4:00 p.m. Shower hours are 4:30 p.
m. to 11:OO a.m. Check out time is 2:00 p.m. You are to renew your site permit by 10:
00 a.m. Maximum length of stay is 5 nights. Pets are permitted only on West Canyon
and Whiptail Trails and must be on leash at all times. Do not dump gray water at
sites, use the dump station by the restroom. Tents on tent pads only. Bikes on
pavement only. NO FIRES June 1- Sept. 15. Fires in grills/fire rings only. Firewood
gathering is prohibited. They have a volleyball court which is pretty cool. The
restrooms are first rate. Sites 1, 2, 9, 10, 20, 21, 24, 26, & 27 cannot be reserved.
Sites 1 - 14 are hookups with water and electric. Prices are $15.00 - non-hookups
and $18.00 -water & electric. For reservations call 800-322-3770.

Notes: One of my home crags. Endless climbing really. The Sand Dune area is the
most versatile of any of the walls within Snow Canyon, trad, sport, single pitch, multi
pitch, lower and upper tier, 5.6 to 5.12....pretty sweet place really.