Mount Remus Scramble

Lat/Lon: 50.79°N, 114.97°W
Mount Remus is part of the horseshoe shaped Fisher Range at the front end of
Kananaskis Country in the Elbow-Sheep Wildland Provincial Park. Kananaskis
Country is a maze of provincial parks which encompasses over 4,000 square
kilometers of foothills and mountains bordering Banff National Park in the central
Canadian Rockies. Mount Remus starts one end of the horseshoe and Mount
Fullerton the other. In between lies Mount Romulus and Fisher Peak.   Mount Remus
was officially named in 1940 along with Mount Romulus after the legendary twin
brothers and founders of Rome.

The only published route up Mount Remus is the moderate to difficult scramble up
its eastern slopes to its summit block.   The guide book determines the chimney up
the center of the summit block to be difficult with an optional moderate approach
from the north. I found the chimney did not present a difficult challenge and rate this
scramble moderate at most. The most challenging aspect of the day involves
crossing the Little Elbow River. This aspect of the trip more than likely explains why
there is no trail and few, if any, cairns, thus little evidence of any traffic up this
mountain. It still surprised me being that Mount Remus is on the front range and has
quick accessibility. The views from the summit include Mount Fullerton and Nihahi
Ridge to the north, Tombstone Mountain to the south, Mount Blane to the west and
the eastern group of Mount Cornwall, Banded Peak, Outlaw Peak and Mount
Glasgow.

The guidebook references covering the 7kms+/- in via the Little Elbow River Trail on
a mountain bike in 45 minutes. I took 25 minutes on return (it is approximately the
same terrain both directions), however, this estimate of 45 minutes along with other
mitigating factors in regards to the guide book’s suggestions left me with 1.5 hours
of delayed start time biking up and down the trail trying to determine where best to
cross the river and start the route. Therefore, my route description will vary
considerably in description compared to Kane’s brief route information. Not
counting the delay, I completed the route in less than 5 hours. The guidebook
suggests 6-8 hours if using your bike.

Getting There
The Bragg Creek and the Elbow-Sheep Valley area of Kananaskis Country can be
accessed from Calgary via a number of roads. The simplest is to take the Trans-
Canada exit for Bragg Creek, Highway 22. Travel south through Bragg Creek on
Highway 22 until it dead ends into Highway 66. Turn right on Highway 66 and follow it
until a dead end into the Little Elbow Campground. Park on the right at the sign for
trailhead parking. Watch for cattle and deer on the road as you will be driving through
open range land. Highway 66 is closed from December 1 through May 14. There
are restrooms at this location.

Red Tape
There are no permit requirements to enter, climb and/or park in Kananaskis
Provincial Park. The Elbow Valley Information Center is located on your right after
you turn right on Highway 66. Any recent notices will be posted on the bulletin board
at that location.   Kananaskis Provincial Park headquarters are located on Highway
40 east of Canmore.

This is active grizzly country, therefore, you should always have bear spray on your
person. I found the remains of a kill along side the Little Elbow River where I made
my crossing. I do advise checking with the park website link provided above for
possible trail closures.

When To Climb
As with most climbs in the Canadian Rockies, the driest time is from June through
September. I did this scramble in September in mostly dry conditions. There are no
published backcountry ski routes on Mount Remus, and it might be conducive to ski
to the final summit ridge, but not to the summit itself. These would no doubt be
avalanche prone slopes.

Camping
The closest camp site would be the Little Elbow Campground in which you start this
scramble. Do not expect much of a backcountry experience, however, as many city
residents use this campground as a holiday type resort. However during midweek
September, there was not a soul in site. There are many backcountry sites in the
area. You cannot camp outside of the marked specific camping areas in
Kananaskis. Refer to the Kananaskis Provincial Park website for more information
regarding camping and/or lodging.

Mountain Conditions
The Kananaskis Provincial Park website is a very thorough park website, including
trail conditions or closures, wildlife notices, weather conditions, avalanche
conditions, camping permits, whitewater conditions, etc. It is an excellent source if
you are going to spend any time here and comparable to any National Park website I
have used. Outside of the parks web site, Canadian Avalanche Association is also
useful, particularly for winter travel. Canadian Alpine Accident Reports are also
extremely useful.

Route
This is a 3500’+/- ascent day.   My altimeter recorded 3800’+ total.   Bike
approximately 7kms in via the Little Elbow River trail. The guidebook references 45
minutes on bike, but I did it in 25 minutes on return (relatively same gain-loss both
directions). Make note of this, because I went too far on the first pass by. There is
not a dominant feature that stands out in terms of where to cross the river or start the
route. Keep in mind that once you cross the blue bridge and ascend a hill, Mount
Remus is the mountain that starts to dominate your view to the right. There is a
significant limestone wall on the sky line to the south and that is Mount Romulus.
Mount Remus is north and Mount Romulus is south of a deep snow filled col
separating the two. Mount Remus has some very distinctive features guarding its
summit to the south (photo included). The ascent is made to the north of these
features in a broad open gully that leads to various drainages from the top ridge line
(photo included). Once you are dead even with this huge drainage-gully system,
depart with your bike and head west for the Little Elbow River. There are no markings
here. Farther south on the trail is a flag and even a little farther are some cairns on
both sides of the trail. But the most direct approach and good river crossing are
where I reference.

The best place to cross the Little Elbow River, or any river for that matter, is at a
braided section.   Just a little downriver from where you parked your bike is a fork
in the river. This section was knee deep in September when I waded across it. The
water does move fast. Don’t attempt this barefoot, you will not keep your footing. Take
old runners, etc. It will be brutally cold. Once across the river proceed due west
through some trees, an open area and back into trees aiming for the right side of the
deep drainage leading up the gully. There is no trail and little signs of previous
scramblers.

Continue up a ridge of firm ground through bearberries and junipers on the right
side. Stay close to the drainage. Eventually you will clearly see a huge copper
colored shale-filled gully on your right. This will serve as an optional and preferred
descent.   Bypass this gully on ascent and continue straight up until you can see
vertical water worn limestone walls that will block your route directly above and one of
those steep walls goes off to the left. You want to cross the gully here as the scree
becomes difficult and proceed up to the base of that wall.   Hug the wall as it
contours southwest. Eventually the summit block, your crux and main objective,
comes into clear view.   There is a good eastern spur to rest on here and have lunch,
approximately 8000’.

Continue to hug the wall on your right as it eventually peters out.   Then draw a
straight line on wind packed snow or scree to a small separate protrusion front and
center of the summit block. Traverse around right of this obstacle and you will clearly
see a chimney that breaks the summit block in the center.   As you near the chimney,
you will more than likely observe it chocked full of snow and ice.   However, as soon
as you ascend into it, you will observe a decent hands on route to the left.   A
short bit of 5th class climbing gets you up and over the summit block wall and then
just a hike to the southern summit cairn remains. The views of Mount Romulus to the
south and Fisher Peak to the northwest are the most immediate. Other clear views
include Mount Fullerton and Nihahi Ridge to the north, Tombstone Mountain to the
south, Mount Blane to the west and the eastern group of Mount Cornwall, Banded
Peak, Outlaw Peak and Mount Glasgow. There was a new summit register in 2005.

On descent I recommend a variation. Descend the chimney and glissade down to
the ridge to the northeast. Stay to the ridge and cross over a highpoint or two
aiming for the unique colored shale at a prominent feature providing a corner to
the ridge to the northeast. This colored shale always represents soft and fast
descents. You can descend past 10,000’ per hour if you kick it in gear. This route
takes you right back to the drainage you ascended. Remember to aim for the fork in
the river before you get below tree line. Once back across the river, return the same.
Beware of the guidebook notes. Kane’s photos do not show this mountain from the
approach perspective. It is easy to get confused where to start. Selectively print some
of my photos and you will get off to a fast beginning.

Essential Gear
Mountain Bike, Old Runners, Alpine Ax, Helmet, Gaiters, Bear Spray

Trip Report
I observed a bald eagle at 9000’, lynx tracks on the snowy ridge and a bear kill along
the river this beautiful fall day. And not a single human on the trail going in or out
along with very little evidence of scramblers doing this mountain either. I was only the
second summit register sign in for 2005 which really surprised me. I rate this route 3
stars. It is a pleasant, short and rewarding day out. Cheers!