Pinnacle Mountain, Southwest Ridge, Alpine II, 5.5-5.6

Lat/Lon: 51.33833°N / 116.22806°W - CLICK FOR TOPO MAP
Pinnacle Mountain is the technical alpine climb (Alpine II, 5.5-5.6) located between
the popular scramble of Mount Temple to the northeast and the smaller scramble of
Eiffel Peak to the southwest in Banff National Park, one of four connecting national
parks making up the central Canadian Rockies. Walter Wilcox named Pinnacle
Mountain in 1894 due to the large pinnacles located to the north of Sentinel Pass.
Pinnacle Mountain was actually originally named Sentinel Mountain. It was first
ascended by Hickson, Feuz and Aemmer in 1909 and was considered quite the
accomplishment for the period after three previous attempts failed.

There are two Pinnacle Mountains in Canada, one in Quebec and this one of the
Canadian Rockies. The hike up the Larch Valley Trail is popular among hikers, but
this climb is rather obscure. We were the first to sign the old log book in 2006 (June)
and the last entry was August of 2005. The lone published route is the Alpine II, 5.5-
5.6 route up Pinnacle Mountain’s southwest ridge which only involves two pitches of
technical climbing. An old hemp rope was installed on the 2nd technical pitch many
years ago, and only a small remnant is left. To date, there have been no other routes
of interest on Pinnacle and it makes little sense to attempt to ski the mountain.
Unlike other routes in the Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies guide
book, i.e. Mount Brock, I found this route quite accurate via the grade and description.
One move on the second pitch up a cold damp chimney might venture into the
5.7 realm (modern rating) and is difficult to protect. Pinnacle Mountain is quite
loose in spots, but this is the Canadian Rockies.

One would be hard pressed to find a better summit to take in more immediate
11,000’+ mountains in the Canadian Rockies, including Mount Deltaform, Mount
Lefroy, Mount Temple, Mount Hungabee, Mount Victoria and even Mount Joffre and
Mount Hector in the distance. The “Valley of the Ten Peaks” views are magnificent,
particularly the north face routes of Mount Fay.

Getting There
The Trans-Canada dissects Banff National Park east to west as you come in from
Calgary. Travel to the Lake Louise exit and turn left through town and follow this road
2.5 km to the Moraine Lake Road. Turn left and proceed to the parking area at the
Moraine Lake Lodge (dead end).

Red Tape
You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter Banff National
Park coming from the east on the Trans-Canada. This pass is good for all four
national parks. If you plan many visits to Canadian National Parks within one year,
you should purchase an annual pass. There are no permit requirements to climb in
Banff or Yoho National Parks, but all camping is regulated. There is also a
backcountry permit required if you plan on spending a night in the backcountry
versus the conventional campsites. This can be obtained via the parks website
which is included in the camping section below. The huts are managed by the Alpine
Club of Canada versus the Parks. The Alpine Club of Canada headquarters is
located in Canmore, AB, the Banff National Park headquarters is located in Banff, AB
and Yoho National Park headquarters is located in Field, BC. You will drive through
the manned national park kiosks as you enter Banff National Park on the Trans-
Canada.

This is active grizzly country, therefore, you should always have bear spray on your
person during the non-hibernation periods. I advise checking with Parks Canada for
any area and/or trail closures. THE LARCH VALLEY TRAIL USED TO ACCESS
PINNACLE MOUNTAIN IS NORMALLY RESTRICTED DUE TO BEAR ACTIVITY.

When to Climb
I climbed Pinnacle Mountain in late June and the route was in good shape. We were
the first to sign the summit log in 2006, but I actually advise climbing this route
early to take advantage of the compacted snow from left over avalanches to
make the scree fest more endurable on ascent to the col. Ice could linger as late
as June on both technical pitches. I could tell they had just cleared up of most ice
when I made my ascent. Small amounts of snow and ice lingered here and there.

Camping
Due to bear closures and the resulting re-arrangement of the Paradise Valley
campsite in 2006, the closest camp site would be back in town at the Lake Louise
Campground. You can go on line at Banff National Park to pick a camp site and
obtain your camping permit. You will also be required to obtain your backcountry
permit which is separate, but can be obtained simultaneously if you plan on camping
at a backcountry site like Paradise Valley. The Lake Louise Alpine Center Hostel is a
great place to eat and has been recently renovated, but is more expensive than your
average hostel. Of course those with the big bucks can camp out at the Moraine Lake
Lodge itself which is at the start of your climb basically.

Mountain Conditions
The Yoho National Park and Banff National Park websites have weather, wildlife
reports, trail closures, etc. Outside of the parks websites, Canadian Avalanche
Association is also useful, particularly for winter travel. Canadian Alpine Accident
Reports is also extremely relevant.

Route
The southwest ridge, Alpine II, 5.5-5.6, up Pinnacle Mountain is a classic if for
nothing more than from an historical perspective. After several failed attempts, it was
finally put up in 1909 and later a hemp rope was anchored at the crux of the climb,
which for years entertained modern climbers until its recent demise due to the harsh
environs. However, despite its close proximity to the very popular scramble route up
Mount Temple, the summit log reflected few visits. We were the first in 2006 on June
24th and the last and only previous entry was in August of 2005.

Park at the Moraine Lake Lodge at the end of Moraine Lake Road near Lake Louise.
Hike along the right side of the lake to the signed Larch Valley Trail on the right. More
often than not this trail has a 6 person minimum restriction due to local grizzly activity.
As a climber, I have always ignored this precaution, but be warned that you can be
fined for disobeying the restriction. Continue on the Larch Valley Trail for
approximately 2000’ in elevation gain to the Minnestimma Lakes. Once you pass the
smaller one on your right, venture off the trail to the left aiming for the Eiffel Peak and
Pinnacle Mountain col. Travel along soft under footing and slab rock to the base of
the scree slog leading up to the col. In June you should have enough snow left to
pick lines that lead most of the way through a few short rock bands to the col another
1000’ in eleveation. We made it from the car to the col, 3000’+, in just over two hours.

The col is a good place to soak in the views, Valley of the Ten Peaks to the south and
The Mitre to the north, as you put on your harness, helmet, etc. Contour right, on a
faint path, around any immediate obstacles to the east and proceed a short distance
to the second bowl over. This spot consists of water worn rock covered in scree with
a small waterfall in the left corner. There is an obvious crack in the middle (photo)
of the water worn rock, but you want to rope up and climb the next feature to the
right. There was one piton on this pitch in 2006. I also found placement for a small
stopper. Climb this low to middle 5th class section to right below two pillar blocks
above. There were two rap stations here in 2006. Use the one right below the
blocks to avoid causing rock fall on the second. I found no use for the rap
station to the left, out into the gully.

Move left and follow the loose gully for several hundred feet of elevation gain, staying
right to use the rock wall to assist in the ascent of loose scree, both small and large.
In June, snow might help facilitate this ascent, but ice will be in existence as well.
Follow the gully straight up. You are aiming slightly right for a large dark and damp
chimney, several pitches long on top of the ridge. As you break out of a narrow
section of the gully on your right, you will be right in front of the crux of this climb.

Stand away from this significant chimney and take time to study the route. You want
to start in the chimney, but it will be icy and considered much more difficult than 5.5 if
you want to climb it. Ascend a few meters until it is feasible to work your way right
onto the face. This is actually the crux move and difficult to protect. I found
marginal protection by placing a small nut (less than #1 metrolius) higher than I
wanted to make the traverse. Therefore once I made the move right and found a
decent cam placement, I used a long runner to allow the rope to raise above that
first placement. I found this face climb easy going and to grade which can be an
exception when using “old timers” ratings. I found complaints on the web that some
believe the climb should be rated higher. Maybe 5.6 might be more appropriate. The
real climbing is short lived on the whole route, but the exposure is above average in
terms of run out.

You top out where remnants of an old hemp rope exist (2006) and find a piton rap
station that is somewhat precarious (photo). From here, circumvent ledges to the
right until the final summit ridge is in clear view. Attain the ridge and complete the
climb in short order. In 2006, the summit log was still maintained in a very old copper
canister. There was only one other entry of August, 2005. The views are just out of
this world. Valley of the Ten Peaks, including Mount Deltaform and Mount Fay are to
the south. Other clear mountain views include Mount Lefroy, Mount Temple, Mount
Hungabee, Mount Victoria and even Mount Joffre and Mount Hector in the distance.
Not to mention the close up view you receive of Effiel Peak and its infamous tower
along the way.

Descend the same route taking two raps. Only one 60 meter rope is needed. Again,
if you go early enough to take advantage of some left over snow, you will have a fast
descent back to the Larch Valley.
Climbing Sequence

Essential Gear
One 60 Meter Rope, small to medium gear, not a lot needed, cams and nuts. I
climbed in boots vs shoes. Gaiters for the descent, poles for the scree ascent and
descent, leave them at the col though. Bear spray for the infamous Larch Valley Trail.
Helmet, harness and draws, etc.