Whiteman Falls, WI 6

Lat/Lon: 50.67917°N / 115.07611°W - Click for Satellite Image
My introduction to this unique canyon down Opal creek was quite the unexpected
adventure. Dealing with a bad kidney I was looking for a relaxing day on some WI 4
ice routes along Evan Thomas Creek known as Moonlight and Snowline. As we
pulled into the parking lot for a late start we ran into other regular partners of ours,
the four of us probably making up the entire contingent of ice climbers on this cold
mid week day back in Kananaskis. They wanted to climb Whiteman Falls but were
looking for encouragement. The next thing I knew good judgment was thrown out the
window and the four of us took off on a late start, 10:00am, down the closed section
of Hwy 40. Of course my partner and I were without skis or snowshoes as we had
not planned for such a long approach.

After post holing for several hours, we reached the base of some short WI 3 ice that
led up to the incredibly scenic canyon containing Whiteman Falls and Redman
Soars. The approach itself is rated 5 stars. We passed a skull that one of my
partners said was a fresh carcass the last time she was back in here, meaning of
course it was a mountain lion kill during this time of year. Remote is a good
description of these two routes.

Kananaskis Country is a maze of provincial parks encompassing over 4,000 square
kilometers of foothills and mountains bordering Banff National Park to the east and
south in the central Canadian Rockies. Opal Creek is south of Opal Ridge and the
Opal Range (a front range of the Canadian Rockies). A geological survey team found
quartz crystals coated with Opal while prospecting nearby, thus, the unofficial name.

Route Description(s)

Whiteman Falls, IV, WI 6/ 95 meters

This is a two pitch route at the end of the canyon. The first pitch is blessed with
incredible mushrooms, which make the route easier than WI 6, but present
interesting climbing issues of their own. The second pitch is full on sustained WI 6.
We took the route up the right side which placed us on a hanging belay, not good if
you have kidney issues. According to Joe Josephson’s “Waterfall Ice, Climbs in the
Canadian Rockies”, you can find a comfortable cave for your mid pitch belay if you
take the left line. The left line looks to be an easier line to climb as well regarding
both pitches. We climbed both pitches to the right moving towards the center at the
top of the second pitch. (further description below)

Red Man Soars, IV, WI 4+, 5.10/ 55 meters

In January of 2007, this “play on names” route Barry (Blanchard) put up looked to be
pretty sparse, particularly when compared to a photo in Joe Josephson’s book.
However, one of my partners had been up the route in such conditions before and
said it was plausible. I have provided one photo of the route.

Getting There
Take the Kananaskis Trail (Highway 40) exit off of the Trans-Canada Highway
between Calgary and Canmore. Drive 54kms to the end of Kananaskis Highway
(Hwy 40). This section of Kananaskis Highway is closed from December 1 through
June 15, and I do mean with a gate. The closure is at Kings Creek (Canyon). Park at
the closed gates and proceed on skis or snowshoes for 5kms to Valley View Road
on your left. This is a gated road as well. Proceed through deeper snow up this road
for approximately 200m to a short bridge and creek. Park the skis here and follow the
creek left as it ascends ever slightly up into a steep rock canyon to the base of two
short WI 2-3 steps. Climb this ice solo or roped, there are two fixed stations at the
top. Use the left station for belay and the right station for rappel to keep your ropes as
dry as possible.

Red Tape
There are no permit requirements to enter, climb and/or park in Kananaskis
Provincial Park. This can be avalanche terrain during the winter. Therefore it would
be prudent to check recent notices posted on the Canadian Avalanche Association’s
website regarding that issue. Kananaskis waterfall ice routes are more susceptible
to avalanche risk than most any other. Tony Devonshire was killed in an avalanche
on a Kananaskis ice route at the start of the 2006-2007 season.

Camping/Lodging
The closest winter overnight accommodation I am aware of is the Delta Lodge back
north off of Highway 40, but I am sure there are other options despite most
campgrounds being closed. You cannot camp outside of the marked specific
camping areas in Kananaskis. Refer to the Kananaskis Provincial Park website for
more information regarding camping and/or lodging.

When to Climb
Waterfall ice climbing is typically a winter sport and I suspect the two main routes in
Opal Creek need until late December to fully form.

Climbing Conditions
The Kananaskis Provincial Park website is a very thorough park website, including
trail conditions or closures, wildlife notices, weather conditions, avalanche
conditions, camping permits, whitewater conditions, etc. It is an excellent source if
you are going to spend any time in Kananaskis. Outside of the parks web sites,
Canadian Avalanche Association is also useful, particularly for winter travel.
Canadian Alpine Accident Reports are also extremely useful.

Route
Joe Josephson’s “Waterfall Ice, Climbs in the Canadian Rockies” references the
second pitch of Whiteman Falls as “one of the hardest pure ice pitches anywhere
sporting over thirty meters of rotten, overhanging ice.” However in January of 2007
this second pitch was in fantastic shape and was actually easier than the second
pitch of Rainbow Serpent which we had just completed a week earlier. What was
killer was the approach along the closed section of Highway 40 (Kananaskis
Highway). It was not a pleasant journey for us as we had not set out to do this route
this day and thus did not have skis or snowshoes. Post holing the five+ kilometers
up and down this road was not amusing, particularly if you have a sore kidney
bouncing up and down. I recommend cross country skis and carry your climbing
boots, but snowshoes would be another option if you did not want to pack your boots.
Of course some are outfitted with backcountry bindings that take your ice climbing
boots. Kudos to you lucky few, that is just more gear than I have room for.

Take the Kananaskis Trail (Highway 40) exit off of the Trans-Canada Highway
between Calgary and Canmore. Drive 54kms to the end of Kananaskis Highway
(Hwy 40). This section of Kananaskis Highway is closed from December 1 through
June 15, and I do mean with a gate. The closure is at Kings Creek (Canyon), Park at
the closed gates and proceed on skis or snowshoes for 5kms to Valley View Road
on your left. This is a gated road as well. Proceed through deeper snow up this road
for approximately 200m to a short bridge and creek. Park the skis here and follow the
creek left as it ascends ever slightly up into a steep rock canyon to the base of two
short WI 2-3 steps. Climb this ice solo or roped, there are two fixed stations at the
top. Use the left station for belay and the right station for rappel to keep your ropes as
dry as possible. Once you top out, follow the narrow canyon as it bends sharp left
and then back right as it ascends to a dead end below Whiteman Falls.

The route goes easier to the left and that is the recommended variation in the guide
book. Of course we took the right side which is right next to Red Man Soars, IV, WI 4+,
5.10. The main difference is ease of the first pitch and the comfort of the belay station
between pitches. The left side offers some sort of cave and/or platform between
pitches. The right side puts you on a hanging belay.

The first pitch starts directly over the small flat staging area next to the wall that is
Red Man Soars. It offers a variety of mushroom formations, the most interesting of
which (photos) offered us a cool problem. The ladies seemed to take a split stance
before pulling the roof. I did a full on heel hook which is very colorful by my standards.
In any regard, it is quite obvious where the second pitch begins. We snared a slight
hanging belay spot at the lower right corner of the top pillar. Move out left and climb
the straight vertical 2nd pitch to the top.

Descent
You will have two raps to get back to the base of the route and then another rap to
descend that short WI 2-3 ice that exits below the narrow portion of the canyon. Use
the skiers left rappel station versus the belay station on the right. You might have to
dig it out of the snow and be careful as you traverse left through deep snow on ice to
attain it. You can lead out from the belay station on the wall (skiers right) to reach the
rappel station. This rap station saves your ropes from falling into running water
pools below in between the two ice steps. Return via Opal Creek back to Valley
View Road and thus Highway 40.

Essential Gear
Two Ice Tools, Double 60 meter Ropes, 12-14 Ice Screws and draws (screamers),
Crampons, Helmet, Warm Clothes, Full Shank Boots, skis or snowshowes, poles.