The Onion (Ski Wapta Icefield)

Lat/Lon: 51.6245°N, 116.4911°W - CLICK FOR TOPO MAP
The Wapta Icefields are comprised of a series of glaciers that run along the
continental divide from Peyto Lake to the north and the Trans-Canada Highway to the
south. The climbing is diverse ranging from full on ice and alpine climbs to ski
summits. A chain of four Alpine Club of Canada huts makes the Wapta Ski Traverse
the most popular ski mountaineering objective in Canada. The “Wapta Icefields” is
typically used to describe an area of several hundred square kilometers that include
both the Wapta and Waputik Icefields. Wapta means “running water” in Cree and
refers to the second tallest waterfall in western Canada, Takakkaw Falls (1247’),
which drains the Daly Glacier at the southern end of the Waputik Icefield.

These Icefields are split down the middle by the continental divide and therefore lie
in both Yoho and Banff National Parks, two of four connecting national parks in the
heart of the Canadian Rockies.

The first recorded exploration onto the Wapta Icefields was in 1932 by McCoubrey,
the Neave brothers and Secord. It was not until Hans Gmoser attempted a traverse
from Kicking Horse Pass to Jasper in 1960 that skiing on the glaciers became a
popular concept among the local mountaineering community. The first hut was built
in 1965, but the first huts had to be replaced by stronger huts in short order as
wandering wolverines would break in and destroy them.

The most popular and largest hut is the Bow Hut.   Many parties ski into the Bow Hut
and bag objectives to and fro.   The easiest of these objectives is a causal ski to the
top of The Onion, right above the hut area.

Getting There
The Trans-Canada Highway runs from Calgary through Banff and Yoho National
Parks on its way to Vancouver. As you pass through Lake Louise heading
westbound, exit right and proceed on the Icefields Parkway (Highway 93) towards
Bow Lake and the Num-Ti-Jah Lodge parking lot.

Red Tape
You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter Banff National
Park coming from the east on the Trans-Canada. This pass is good for all four
national parks. If you plan many visits to Canadian National Parks within one year,
you should purchase an annual pass. There are no permit requirements to climb in
Banff or Yoho National Parks, but all camping is regulated. There is also a
backcountry permit required if you plan on spending a night in the backcountry
versus the conventional campsites. This can be obtained via the parks website. The
huts are managed by the Alpine Club of Canada versus the Parks. The Alpine Club
of Canada headquarters is located in Canmore, AB, the Banff National Park
headquarters is located in Banff, AB and Yoho National Park headquarters is located
in Field, BC. You will drive through the manned national park kiosks as you enter
Banff National Park on the Trans-Canada.

This is active grizzly country, therefore, you should always have bear spray on your
person during the non-hibernation periods. I advise checking with Parks Canada for
any area and/or trail closures.

When To Climb
The Wapta Icefields are accessed twelve months out of the year. Ski purists
obviously prefer the winter months, despite the extreme temperatures and wind that
inevitably exist on the glaciers. Different hazards are more prevalent at different
times of the years. Crevasse and avalanche rescue techniques and equipment
must be at your disposal at all times once you ascend any of the glaciers.

Camping
Most anyone I know uses the hut system if they are attacking objectives on the Wapta
Icefields. As mentioned previously, any one of the four huts can be reserved through
the Alpine Club of Canada. In 2005 the rates were $24 per night. The huts come
equipped with stoves, fuel, sleeping pads, dishes and an outhouse. Only one of the
four huts is heated in the cooking area by a wood stove, the Bow Hut. You will need a
rated sleeping bag regardless. Nights can be bitterly cold even in the huts.

You can snow camp on the Wapta Icefields, but will be required to secure your
camping permit from Yoho National Park or Banff National Park. You will also be
required to obtain your backcountry permit which is separate, but can be obtained
simultaneously if you plan on camping at a backcountry site.

Mountain Conditions
The Yoho National Park and Banff National Park websites have weather, wildlife
reports, trail closures, etc. Outside of the parks websites, Canadian Avalanche
Association is also useful, particularly for winter travel. Canadian Alpine Accident
Reports is also extremely relevant.

Route
It is 8kms from Bow Lake to Bow Hut with 1250’+/- elevation gain. Start at the Num-Ti-
Jah Lodge parking lot and cross Bow Lake (make sure it is appropriately frozen-
skiers have died on this lake) in a southwesterly direction to gravel flats that contour
around the northern end of Crowfoot Mountain. Follow a creek bed towards Bow
Falls and be on the lookout for a trail heading into the forest on your left. This avoids
a steep canyon section in the drainage. Follow this trail upwards until you come to a
juncture where you can descend back into the creek bed. Skin up this creek (left)
as it winds its way into a canyon trough (aka snow trap). Separate well through this
canyon to avoid more than one party being buried in the same avalanche. Move
through at a steady pace until you come to a steep ice-water fall type section
(approximately 1km). Ascend the left hand slope, possibly having to remove your
skis for a short period and continue due south through the tree line towards a
massive headwall (photo below) between Crowfoot Mountain and St. Nicholas
Peak. Turn right in the cirque (ice cliff avalanche terrain) and ascend a ramp of
snow back north that leads directly to the Bow Hut. Stay right to find the least
strenuous and hazardous terrain.

Continue past the hut to the east and ascend snow slopes to a broad col between
Mount St. Nicholas to your left and The Onion to your right. Simply ski up to the
Onion's broad summit and enjoy the views.

Essential Gear
Skins, Skies, Poles, Goggles, Compass, Map and whatever glacier gear you deem
appropriate.   You will not have access to the cooking facilities at the Bow Hut unless
you have the combination to the door.

Trip Report
Five of us did a three day ski mountaineering trip into the Balfour Hut. Poor visibility
going in, but a spectacular day coming out. Extremely cold skiing, but decent
conditions compared to Kananaskis backcountry skiing during the same period.
Stepped on a dangerous slab on the unnamed ascent. Fresh snow on top of
windblown slabs persists at the higher elevations. Heavy snow load on St. Nicholas
as well. We did the Onion as a consolation on our return.

Not a soul at the Bow Hut or Balfour Hut in December, 2005. Cheers.