Mount Niblock- Mount Whyte Traverse

Lat/Lon: 51.4°N, 116.26°W
Mount Whyte, together with Mount Niblock, 1.2 km to the north, forms the backdrop
for Lake Agnes and its teahouse 4000’ (summit elevation) above Lake Louise, Banff
National Park. It is a difficult scramble and when combined with a summit traverse
of Mount Niblock, the route makes for a long day in the mountains. Its summit can
also be accessed via an alpine climb of its east ridge, the Perren Route (Alpine II
5.6). Its summit view gives way to the significant Victoria and Lefroy glaciers as well
as the surrounding Lake Louise mountains.

Mount Whyte is a more technical and exposed undertaking than Mount Niblock. The
vantage point is well worth the effort however. The route finding on the scramble
route is challenging and many take rock gear to make the ascent as well as some
rappel stations are in place. Of course the rock is marginal which is typical of the
location. For those less inclined for such an adventure among your group, send
them to Mt. St. Piran, Mt. Fairview and/or Mt. Sheol as parking will be the same for
these Lake Louise objectives.

Mount Whyte was officially named in 1898 after a Canadian Pacific Railway
executive and was first ascended by Edward Whymper in 1901 along with three
guides, Kaufmann, Klucker and Pollinger.

Getting There
The Trans-Canada dissects Banff National Park east to west as you come in from
Calgary. Travel to the Lake Louise exit and turn left through town and follow this road
5 km to its end at the Lake Louise parking area.

Red Tape
You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter the park. This
pass is good for all four national parks. If you plan many visits to Canadian National
Parks within one year, you should purchase an annual pass. There are no permit
requirements to climb in Banff National Park, but all camping is regulated. There is
also a backcountry permit required if you plan on spending a night in the
backcountry versus the town campsites. This can be obtained via the parks website
which is included in the camping section below. Park headquarters are located in
Banff and you will drive through the manned kiosks as you enter the park.

This is active grizzly country, therefore, you should always have bear spray on your
person. We just had a grizzly fatality in Canmore, June, 2005. This approach trail is
rarely restricted as it leads to the Lake Agnes Tea House. However, I advise
checking with Parks Canada for any area and/or trail closures.

When To Climb
As with most scrambles in the Canadian Rockies, the driest time is from June
through September. I climbed Mount Niblock and Mount Whyte in August via the
traverse and the route was in condition. There are no published backcountry ski
routes on these mountains, nor would it be conducive to ski to the summits.

Camping
The closest camp site would be back in town at the Lake Louise Campground. You
can go on line at Banff National Park to pick a camp site and obtain your camping
permit. You will also be required to obtain your backcountry permit which is
separate, but can be obtained simultaneously if you plan on camping at a
backcountry site. The Lake Louise Alpine Center Hostel is a great place to eat and
has been recently renovated, but is more expensive than your average hostel. Of
course those with the big bucks can camp out at the Chateau itself.

Mountain Conditions
Banff National Park’s website has weather, wildlife reports, trail closures, etc.
Outside of the parks web site, Canadian Avalanche Association is also useful,
particularly for winter travel.

Route
This is a 4000’+/- ascent day not counting for lost elevation from one summit to the
next.   Perhaps the most difficulty this day will by finding your way through the crowds
at the Chateau.   Follow Lake Louise counter clock wise to the Lake Agnes Tea
House trail which splits off to the right.   Ascend the trail to the tea house for 3.4 km
(good views of Mts. Aberdeen, Haddo and their ascent glacier to the south).   Once
to the tea house, continue along the right shore line of Lake Agnes aiming for the col
between Niblock and Whyte.

It is a relatively easy ascent to Niblock involving some hands on scrambling, but not
much.   Stay to the right to avoid rock fall from several steep rock bands (a fatality
has occurred in this area) and crest out to the right of the pass adjacent to the
headwall of Mount Niblock.   Stay to the left on the south ridge and head for the
summit.   Good views include several close ups of a small glacier, but deep ice, on
Popes Peak.

Then proceed south over the pass to the cruxes of Whyte. The first couple of
scramble moves directly on the ridge are relatively tame.   Then you end up on the
right side of the ridge at a 15 meter climb (5.7) that you want a rope for if you plan
on down climbing later (bad rock).   There is a rappel station at the top. I was solo
therefore this helped define my descent option down the south slopes of Whyte.
There might be an easier way to access or stay on the north ridge of Whyte.   I did
not take the time to find out.   Once on top of this crux, everything else seems like a
cakewalk, but still deserves caution.   Traverse on ledges (photo above) to the right
of a steep rock wall to the first broad gully that takes you back to the ridge again.
Proceed northwest to the summit cairn.   Mount Whyte’s summit gives up better
views then Niblock via the Death Trap, Abbot Hut, Glacier Peak, Temple, Victoria,
Lefroy, Collier, Mitre, etc.

I then chose to scramble down the south slopes of Whyte to the Plain of Six Glaciers
Trail. However, four French Canadians decided to do the same.   So I booked on
down to stay ahead of them, as the rock fall from above brought on “Apocalypse
Now” flashbacks.   This route involves tremendous route finding and good judgment
and is more dangerous in my opinion, than going back and down climbing to the
pass between Whyte and Niblock.   But it does make for a true traverse of a great
section of the Lake Louise area.   Scramble down a short distance south of the
summit toward a gully between Mount Whyte and the next peak southwest.   It starts
out steep, but eases into varying snow and scree slopes down to grassy rock bands
which can be difficult to downclimb.   There will be a lot of route finding in this area
and you might want to rappel in a spot or two.   I was solo and without a rope and
found my way, no worries.   Once you reach the Plain of Six Glaciers Trail, you have a
5 km hike back east to the parking area.

Essential Gear
Helmet, Bear Spray, Gaiters, a Short Rope and enough Gear to Make a Rappel
Station could come in Handy on either Descent

Trip Report
The crux on Mt Whyte can be multiple. There are some rappel stations, therefore, I
advise taking a short rope.   This was the summer of the 2003 fires.   Most photos
were not worth posting.   However, I do have a very cool shot of the Mitre, posing like
an active volcano.   Really it was just a fire behind Mitre that caused the effect. I will
post it on the Mitre page if and when I get it climbed.   I like this traverse, if just
visiting, a good scramble to include amongst your climbs.   If the scramble is too
lame, do the Alpine Route up the east ridge of Mt. Whyte.   It looks nice and I hear the
rock is better than most in the area.   Cheers!