Narao Peak Scramble

Lat/Lon: 51.41528°N / 116.31667°W- CLICK FOR TOPO MAP
Narao Peak is part of the “Lake O ‘Hara” group located in Yoho National Park (British
Columbia), one of four connecting national parks that make up the central Canadian
Rockies. Narao is hemmed in by the Continential Divide, Unnamed Peak and Popes Peak
to the east and Mount Collier to the south. Narao Peak was first ascended in 1913 and
officially named in 1916 after a Stoney Indian word meaning “hit in the stomach”. This
reference is likely tied to James Hector being kicked by a horse while navigating up the
Kicking Horse River in 1858. Not sure what Narao Peak would have been named if the
horse kicked Mr. Hector somewhere else.

The best view of the route is either from the summit of Mount Bosworth located directly
across Kicking Horse Pass or Paget Peak directly across the Kicking Horse River Valley.
Narao’s north ridge bleeds into three summits. By the size of the cairns built on the first
summit you arrive at from the north, few scramblers venture on to the true summit which is
the first of two jagged peaks with ice couloirs stacked between their steep northern slopes.

Below Narao Peak’s southern slopes is the site of the whipper I took featured in Climbing
Magazine, the Watch Tower. The views from the summit are, as usual, pretty spectacular.
Of note is the constant view you enjoy on ascent of Cathedral Mountain to the west. You
also get a solid glimpse on ascent of the Wapta Icefield, including Mount Balfour, to the
north through a distinctive “V” notch made by Mount Niles and Mount Daly. You can
practically reach out and touch Popes and Unnamed Peaks as well as Mount Collier. And
you get a good view of the Skoki Range to the east as well, including Mount Redoubt.

The only published route on Narao Peak is the scramble up the north ridge, however, the
low angled northern snow/ice couloirs might be of interest to snow/ice climbers from the
lower 48.

Getting There
The Trans-Canada Highway runs from Calgary through Banff and Yoho National Parks on
its way to Vancouver. Pass through Lake Louise heading westbound and continue on the
Trans-Canada on its way to Field, BC. As you pass the Yoho National Park welcoming
sign and Mount Bosworth on your right, look for the Lake O’Hara parking lot turnoff on your
left. Drive across the railroad tracks and park at the bottom of the road. You cannot bike
the Lake O’Hara road and the Cataract Brook Trail has been decommissioned. The
dusty road going in is somewhat of a hazard to hikers as the park staff who drive the road
do so at twice the speed limit and they don’t expect to see anyone on foot since most
everyone is using the bus service to reach Lake O’Hara itself.

Red Tape
You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter Banff National Park
coming from the east on the Trans-Canada. This pass is good for all four national parks. If
you plan many visits to Canadian National Parks within one year, you should purchase an
annual pass. There are no permit requirements to climb in Yoho National Park, but all
camping is regulated. There is also a backcountry permit required if you plan on spending
a night in the backcountry versus the town campsites. This can be obtained via the parks
website which is included in the camping section below. Yoho National Park
headquarters are located in Field, BC and you will drive through the manned national park
kiosks as you enter Banff National Park on the Trans-Canada.

This is active grizzly country, therefore, you should always have bear spray on your person.
I advise checking with Parks Canada for any area and/or trail closures.

When to Climb
As with most climbs in the Canadian Rockies, the driest time is from June through
September. I climbed Narao Peak in mid October and found the route relatively dry, little
ice or wet snow. Some years, that would not be the case in October. This is a north ridge
and gets less sun than other routes.

Camping
The closest camp site would be the Lake O’Hara campground at the end of the Lake O’
Hara road another 9km south. The Alpine Club of Canada also maintains the Elizabeth
Parker Hut at the same location. In addition there is luxury accommodation at the Lake O’
Hara Lodge. Narao Peak is a fairly obscure climb and any climbers that do tackle it usually
just make it a day trip wherefore camping is simply not an issue.

You can go on line at Yoho National Park to pick a camp site and obtain your camping
permit. You will also be required to obtain your backcountry permit which is separate, but
can be obtained simultaneously if you plan on camping at a backcountry site. You cannot
camp outside of the marked specific camping areas.

Mountain Conditions
Yoho National Park has weather, wildlife reports, trail closures, etc. Outside of the parks
web site, Canadian Avalanche Association is also useful, particularly for winter travel.
Canadian Alpine Accident Reports are also extremely helpful.

Route
This is a 4600’+/- total ascent day. From the Lake O’ Hara parking lot, hike up the gravel
road to the 2 kilometer marker (on trees to the right). On your left will be a marked trail to
Ross Lake. Take the Ross Lake trail for no more than 5 minutes and pick any line that
works for you up the steep forested hill side on your right. There are two spots that seem
to work decently, one across from a moose clearing and another a little further down
that is an active drainage. Either way, ascend/bushwhack more than a 1000’ to attain tree
line. Once you crest tree line on the northern slopes of Narao Peak the north ridge will
come into full view. The further left you stay, the easier the ascent. None of the talus rubble
is fun terrain however. The main idea is to gain the ridge straight away. It will be well over
1000’ gain with one neat plateau separating two steep rubble slopes.

Once on the ridge, you will be rewarded with tremendous views of Cathedral Mountain and
Popes Peak. Looking up the north ridge of Narao and to the east you will see the three
summits. From this perspective the last two look more intimidating than they actually are.
Move along the ridge, passing any obstacles to the west. Eventually you will come to a flat
spot below a steep wall (photo). There is an obvious chimney (photo) to the right that will
more than likely be filled with snow no matter the time of year. It is an easy chimney to
ascend however. Once you top out of the chimney, move along some ledges back to
your left and climb (crux) back to the top of the ridge. Continue along the ridge with a
few hands on scramble sections until you reach the first of three summits. This first
summit has two large cairns (2006) and is a large flat area with straight on views of Mount
Collier to the south.

Descend this first summit to a col between it and the next summit (photo). You will pass
an ice couloir on your left. The scrambling to the second summit involves little hands on
scrambling up large blocks. Again you will find a summit cairn. This summit also has a
summit register (2006). You can easily proceed to the third summit or return knowing you
have reached the highest point on the ridge. The views are tremendous featuring, but not
limited to, Cathedral Mountain to the west. You get a solid glimpse of the Wapta Icefield,
including Mount Balfour, to the north through a distinctive “V” notch made by Mount Niles
and Mount Daly. You can practically reach out and touch Popes and Unnamed Peaks as
well as Mount Collier. And you get a good view of the Skoki Range to the east as well,
including Mount Redoubt.

Return the same. Once you get back to tree line, you will have a difficult time finding the
exact position where you ascended. It is best to mark a line on your ascent via features in
the distant. The ground does not make for bad descent in October. I treed a marten by
accident. It is very unusual that any of the weasel family lets you get that close. I tried to
take a photo of him for quite some time, but learned where “pop goes the weasel” comes
from and gave up as I was obviously harassing him. Always a treat to see any wildlife up
close. As I made it back to the Lake O’ Hara road, a gentleman was walking up the road
with his bear spray out and damn near sprayed me. He had seen a bear back at the
parking area and was in somewhat of a frightful state.

Essential Gear
Helmet, Bear Spray, Hiking Poles, Gaiters, Alpine Ax if Snow Conditions, Possibly
Crampons as well. I needed neither in mid October. Heavy Boots to Protect against the
Large Talus on Descent.