Looking Glass Rock Rock Climb

Lat/Lon: 38.27556°N / 109.40528°W - CLICK FOR TOPO MAP
Looking Glass Rock is located in an area known as Canyon Rims Recreation Area
located between Moab and the Indian Creek climbing area. During a sandstorm in
Moab, my wife and I struggled to find an area to climb one particular morning. Thus
we made out for South Six Shooter hoping to discover tamer weather. Before
heading out, we stopped in at the local gear shop to ask suggestions for anything
else and they recommended Looking Glass Rock as an easy climb to bag along the
way. Normally when we think of Looking Glass in reference to climbing, we hone in
on North Carolina. But this large sandstone dome with a massive amphitheater and
huge window carved out by ferocious winds makes for a fun objective on your way to
or fro the Indian Creek and/or Canyonlands National Park area.

The climb is a three pitch bolted route up the southwest ridge of the dome section of
Looking Glass Rock. It only requires a few 5.7 moves, mostly smearing on a dust
covered sandstone ramp. The real exposure of this climb is that if you fall off to
the right on lead, or just as likely, the wind knocks you off your feet to the right,
you will have to be prepared to make a free air ascent back up the rope with
ascenders and/or prussics. The summit is broad and grants you incredible isolated
views of Canyonlands National Park to the west. The highlight of this climb is the
two rope rappel (photo) through the keyhole slot down and to the southwest
from the actual summit cairn and register. This is a complete and 100% free air
rap from the get go. You might want to lower any of your less experienced partners
as this can be a frightening rap for some, particularly if the wind is twirling them
around a little.

Domes similar to Looking Glass Rock were more than likely created by salt bed
movement of some sort during the Jurassic Period. There are many cool objectives
up and down Highway 191. Looking Glass is a fairly obscure climb despite its easy
access and you won’t find much beta on line or in the guide books. The one route is
fairly straight forward. As with all sandstone, one should climb Looking Glass Rock
in dry conditions.

Getting There
Take Highway 191 south of Moab for approximately 25 miles. You are looking for a
graded road on your right known as Hatch Wash road. They were grading it when we
were there in 2006, so it is fairly well maintained. Turn right and travel west a few
kilometers looking to turn left onto a deep sand road that angles to the southeast
corner of Looking Glass Rock. A rancher uses this road for access to some horses
more southeast. Right before you dead end into his fence, turn right and follow the
fence to the base of Looking Glass. Cross the fence on a large rock and circumvent
the dome to the south. Turn the corner right (facing the huge window) and the route
starts right here (photo). If you want to get a look at that keyhole (photo) for the rap,
follow the inside ramp of Looking Glass towards the window. As you arrive in the
amphitheater, look up and you will see the key hole and if you have real good vision,
you might even see the anchors from below.

Red Tape
Most of Canyon Rims Recreation Area is Public Land administered by the Bureau of
Land Management (BLM). Included within the boundary of Canyon Rims are
scattered sections of Utah state land and several parcels of private land. Utah state
land is available to the general public for recreation purposes. Private land may be
posted and visitors must respect the rights of private land owners.

Activities are restricted in several areas within the Canyon Rims Recreation Area.
The Dark Canyon Primitive Area is formally closed to off-highway vehicle use. The
Indian Creek, Bridger Jack Mesa, Middle Point and Butler Wash wilderness study
areas are essentially closed to vehicle use and most development activities pending
the outcome of a wilderness review process.

In Moab, our overall faviorite place for food, internet and coffee is the EklectiCafe at
352 North Main Street. The Fiesta Mexicana, 202 South Main Street, has super
margaritas and is good for dinner.

When to Climb
The average high in Moab in July is 98F. The average high in January is 41F. Moab is
at 4000’+/- therefore the winter rock climbing can be a touch on the cold side
compared to southwestern Utah. Climbing in the middle of the day during the
summer in southern Utah is not recommended. Carry plenty of water regardless.
Afternoon thunderstorms are common from mid-July through mid-September.
Storms may produce waterfalls as well as flash floods. Sandstone is weak when
wet, so avoid climbing in damp areas or right after a rain.

Camping
Canyon Rims Recreation Area for the most part is primitive and undeveloped.
Developed facilities include three public campgrounds and a commercial resort. The
BLM operates Wind Whistle Campground which has 17 campsites and is adjacent
to the paved road to Needles Overlook about 6 miles from U.S. 191. A second BLM
campground, Hatch Point, has 9 campsites and is located just off the graveled road
to Anticline Overlook about 24 miles from U.S. 191. These campgrounds are
available on a first-come, first-served basis. Fees are charged for camping at the two
BLM campgrounds from April through October, when drinking water is provided.

The BLM maintains picnic tables and pit toilets at two primitive camping locations
along the southern part of the Lockhart Basin OHV trail near Indian Creek. The
commercial resort is near Utah 211, just east of the entrance to Canyonlands
National Park.

Mountain Conditions
The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Moab field office website has most
everything you need including trail conditions or closures, wildlife notices, weather
conditions, permit information, updated wildfire information, etc.

Route
If you step back from the southern most point, you should be able to make out a line
of bolts on top of the Looking Glass Rock’s southern ramp. Start up the inside left
corner and you will find a bolt on top of the first level spot you come to. You will want
to utilize a long runner in this draw. Continue up several bolts to your first station, it
is a pretty full on 50 meters as I recall. The next pitch is actually the crux. Mid way
up and between bolts on some run out, you will find the smearing somewhat
tricky if the surface has collected quite a bit of sand from recent sand storms.
Trusting your smearing capabilities on this stuff is somewhat unnerving considering
that a fall to the right would put you off the rock entirely, thus you would have to re-
ascend the rope. You will find a few minor features to catch your shoes on to the
right. It is pretty uneventful to the next station after this section. The third pitch goes
left up and on top of the next ramp over (west). Don’t stay on the ramp of the first
two pitches. I ran this third pitch completely out. By doing so, I just had to do a sit
down belay once I reached 60 meters. I felt this last pitch was just a scramble
section. There are several summit cairns, but the largest one contained a summit
register in 2006. The 360 degree views are awesome and if the wind is not
tormenting you, this is a great summit to picnic on.

The descent is the highlight of Looking Glass Rock. The keyhole in which to rappel is
not incredibly obvious from the summit, but not hard to find either. Carefully work your
way down southwest from the summit. On the edge of the dome you will find several
stations. One station is set up to lower climbers into position above the keyhole
where another station awaits a free air rappel. We did not find it necessary to use
this station, but less confident climbers might. Down climb into a small slot above
the keyhole. In 2006, a bomber rappel station was in place here. You will need two
ropes; I used two 60 meter ropes. I lowered my partner and then rapped the route.
Some wind gusts can cause you to swirl. So if you have a tendency to get dizzy, make
sure to keep your eyes on the horizon, a little trick I learned cliff diving in Jamaica.
Once down on the ground, take time to explore the large window at the north end of
the Looking Glass Rock amphitheater.

I do not recommend that you climb Looking Glass Rock during windy or wet
conditions. This is an aesthetic looking piece, not unlike many objectives in Canyon
Rims Recreation Area . Enjoy!

Essential Gear
2- 60 meter ropes!!!! 8-10 Draws, some long slings. Climbing shoes. Sandstone
colored chalk. Helmet. The rap station was bomber in 2006.