Lake Louise Ice and Rock Climbing

Lat 51; 13; 40 Lon 115; 33; 45 - Click for SATELLITE Image
Back of the Lake at Lake Louise is one of the most accessible and thus one of the
more popular sport and trad rock as well as waterfall ice climbing locations in
Banff National Park, one of four connecting national parks making up the central
Canadian Rockies. The rock climbing varies from the tame Louise Falls area to
some of the most challenging steep quartzite face, crack and arête climbing in our
area via the Blob Rock and/or Air Voyage Wall. The ice climbing routes trend all the
way back into the Victoria Glacier. But you can start with a WI 4-5 at Louise Falls.
Basically you can climb the same rock you do in the summer on ice in the winter
at Louise Falls.

In 1882, Tom Wilson, a Canadian Pacific Railroad worker, became the first non-
native to see what is now called Lake Louise. He heard some ice fall off of Mount
Victoria and went to explore it. Although he originally named it Emerald Lake, in
1884, it was renamed Lake Louise in honor of a daughter of Queen Victoria. Lake
Louise was actually created when a natural dam of glacial debris (the current site
of the Chateau) caused the water to back up behind it. It is approximately 85
meters (280 ft) deep, and 2.4 km (1.5 miles) long.

Supposedly Lake Louise attracts 1.5 million visitors each year. Therefore, in the
summer this area becomes a heavily congested tourist haven. They enjoy observing
the climbers as much as they do the wildlife. In the winter, the Fairmont runs a horse
driven sleigh from the Chateau down to Louise Falls to watch you climb ice. They
even brag about watching climbers on their website. So if you have any inhibitions
(this is for you Peter) about performing for an audience, this might not be the place
for you.

Route Information
Waterfall Ice Routes
Louise Falls 110 m II, WI 4-5; Thelma Falls 30 m II, WI 5X; Cable Gullies 15 m III, WI
2; Linda Ice Nine 310 m III, WI 4; Brewsters 200 m III, WI 4; Oasis 50 m III, WI 3

Trad and Sport Rock Routes
Goblin Wall 5.9-5.11c; Rockfall Fall 5.10a-5.12a; Kaleidoscope Pinnacle 5.7-5.10b;
Fraggle (msp) Rock 5.8-5.10a; Hydrotherapy Wall 5.10b-5.11b; Hanging Gardens
5.9-5.12a; Duckland 5.9-5.12c; Blob Rock 5.4-5.13b; Pond Area 5.3-5.12b; Liquid Sky
Wall 5.6-5.12c; Amphitheatre (aptly named) 5.5-5.11a; Air Voyage 5.8-5.13a;
Outhouse 5.3-5.12c; Wicked Gravity 5.6-5.12b; Trailside 5.6-5.12a; Louise Falls 5.4-
5.11dR

Getting There
The Trans-Canada dissects Banff National Park east to west as you come in from
Calgary. Travel to the Lake Louise exit and turn left through town and follow this road
5kms to its end at the Lake Louise parking area. The trailhead parking lot is to the
left and is free of charge. There are restrooms at this location. Head west for the
lake and follow it to its right. Eventually this will turn into a wide trail and leave the
hotel complex behind. I found a couple of ice climbers once crossing the lake
down its middle. Although well frozen at the time, you don’t need to do this nor is
it advised.

Red Tape
You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter the park. This
pass is good for all four national parks. If you plan many visits to Canadian National
Parks within one year, you should purchase an annual pass. There are no permit
requirements to climb in Banff National Park, but all camping is regulated. There is
also a backcountry permit required if you plan on spending a night in the
backcountry versus the town campsites. This can be obtained via the parks
website which is included above. Park headquarters are located in Banff and you will
drive through the manned kiosks as you enter the park. This is active grizzly country,
therefore, you should always have bear spray on your person during non-hibernation
months. I advise checking with Parks Canada for any area and/or trail closures,
however, the trail to the back of the lake if rarely if ever closed.

Camping
The closest camp site would be back in town at the Lake Louise Campground. You
can go on line at Banff National Park to pick a camp site and obtain your camping
permit. You will also be required to obtain your backcountry permit which is
separate, but can be obtained simultaneously if you plan on camping at a
backcountry site. The Lake Louise Alpine Center Hostel is a great place to eat and
has been recently renovated, but is more expensive than your average hostel. Of
course those with the big bucks can camp out at the Chateau itself.

When to Climb
Waterfall ice climbing is typically a winter sport of course. I have climbed
Louise Falls in February and March and it was in stellar condition both months.
The sun can go down early on these rock routes in the summer due to the steep
terrain around you and the cold air drainage from the nearby glaciers doesn't
help matters much. Most of the cliffs in the main area face south or east which
is a plus. July and August are no doubt the prime months. June and September
can be a tad chilly on the fingers.

External Links
Parks Canada
Accident Reports for Canadian Rockies
Avalanche Conditions
This is critical beta for any of the ice climbs beyond Louise Falls.

A Few Words
“The best climber in the world is the one that has the most fun.” Alex Lowe

Route-Louise Falls Ice
Louise Falls is 110 meters at its shortest distance (left). I have seen it done anywhere
from two pitches to four pitches depending on what route you chose. The grade also
varies depending on which side you ascend. It is a fairly wide water fall offering
several variations. Probably the most significant factor to consider at Louise Falls
is falling ice from other climbers. This is one of the most accessible and popular
ice climbs in Banff National Park.

From the Lake Louise Trailhead parking area, approach the Lake from the east and
circle around the north side via a trail all the way to the west end of the lake. As you
approach the end of the lake and some steep rock walls in front of you (forcing an
abrupt left turn in the trail), look up to your right and you will see the falls. Ascend a
steep snow bank to the base of the falls. Position yourself well to the right and
away from any falling debris from any climbers on route. If you have to wait
someone out on route, there is an ice cave of sorts on the lower right corner that
offers a little protection from the cold and/or snow. While you are waiting or to get
warmed up, you can also go up a short practice pitch on the far left side that leads
to a tree that is normally already set up as an anchor for summer rock climbing.

Pitch 1
The start of the first pitch is straight forward and normally knocked free of snow, just
straight up the middle section of the lower fall. This is more of a grade 3. Once on
top of the first bench, you can ascend left and put in a station or ascend far right and
put in a station close to the rocks. I have done both and consider the left line
cleaner and more vertical.

Pitch 2
If you went left, you will make a short pitch to the bottom of the crux on this climb, the
left pillar. There normally is a bomber abalakov (V-thread) station in place here. I
have seen a party make it to this station from the ground from that practice pitch to
the left but believe I heard them say they had an extra long rope, one they had cut
themselves. If you went to the right, then you have a long traverse back left to reach
the pillar climb. I don’t advise going right unless you want to ascend right all the way
to the top bench. I led this pitch once and had nasty rope drag when I reached a
short steep section I had to ascend to reach the bottom of the pillar.

Pitch 3-4
The final pitch is divided by an ice bench and some may choose to divide it into two
pitches, particularly if you are into switching leads. Doing it as one pitch in most
conditions puts it in at grade 5. Starting the left pillar is the most exciting part of the
whole climb. You have to work your way out onto the face of the fall and eventually
end up with one crampon on the pillar and one on the fall doing vertical ice. It kind of
makes for the equivalent of stemming up rock. You will want to place several screws
to reach the top of the pillar. Then you get a short reprieve on a bench. From there to
maintain grade 4 or 5, you want to stay centered on the fall where there is normally a
pillar effect as well. There is an easier route going up the left side. The rappel
station is configured around a tree that is top center.

The descent is the joy regarding Louise Falls. You almost never rap off the route
because there is normally somebody coming up after you. Once off the station at the
top, there is a little rock cave where you can remove your crampons and have lunch.
Then proceed east through normally deep snow and find your way down the east
side of the falls. There is hidden ice here and there. Eventually you come to a small
open slope. If you are brave (or stupid like me), you can whip out an axe and take a
slide in the deep snow. Be prepared to self arrest before you reach more trees
below. Traverse right to reach the bottom of the falls again and then take another
quick butt slide down to the lake. There is ice under the snow, so beware. Where is
my old saucer sled!

Essential Gear
Two Ice Tools, Double 60 meter Ropes, 10-12 Ice Screws, Crampons, Helmet,
Warm Clothes (particularly if you have to wait in line for the start), Full Shank Boots

Routes-Louise Falls Rock
“Back of the Lake” climbs at Lake Louise is one of the few places you are sure to
catch beginners and pros side by side. The routes range from 5.3 to 5.13. I did not
know anybody actually rated 5.3 climbs as I solo up to 5.8 myself, but I also sure in
the hell don’t touch 5.12’s either. Most of the routes are along the busy tourist trail
where you will be heavily gawked at by tourists. Louise Falls, however, takes some
calorie burn to reach off of the beaten path, so it definitely offers more peaceful
climbing. I consider this one of the best locations anywhere in Banff National Park to
take beginners. It is also the location of one of the most popular ice climbs in the
park. So, essentially, you can climb the same route(s) on rock in the summer or
ice in the winter.

From the Lake Louise Trailhead parking area, approach the Lake from the east and
circle around the north side via a trail all the way to the west end of the lake. As you
approach the end of the lake and some steep rock walls in front of you which consist
of a bunch of 5.10’s that make up “Trailside to Louise Falls”, you want to leave the
well trodden tourist trail and follow the steep rock to your right onto a non-descript
trail which leads up a couple of hundred feet to some easy 30 meter routes that are
to the left of a low volume waterfall coming down the rock face. The more
challenging routes at Louise Falls are on the adjoining wall (Zen Wall) on the other
side (right) of the waterfall.

Left to Right before the Falls (Small to Medium Pro on all of these routes- some bolts)
Ryan’s Eliminate 5.5 3 Bolts to Bolted Station
Pinguicula 5.6 2 Bolts to same Bolted Station
Please Don’t Step...Flowers 5.6 3 Bolts to Tree
Midget’s Mantel 5.6 4 Bolts to another Tree
Cruise Control 5.5 2 Bolts to Bolted Station
Louise Sticks It 5.6 4 Bolts to Bolted Station

Left to Right after the Falls (Zen Wall)
Crank if You Love Jesus 5.11b/c 4 Bolts to Bolted Station
Lords of Karma 5.11d-R 6 Bolts to same Bolted Station
(R=potentially dangerous run out- use long draws)
Zen Arcade (Wild Route!) 5.11c 6 Bolts to same Bolted Station

The quartzite is clean and hard here. The Louise Falls routes can be a little wet and
mossy however. The views from belay or climbing positions are incredible if you are
not used to staring at Lake Louise all day. Although the tourists can still see you on
route, you are far enough away that you have a much better wilderness feel up here
versus down by the trail. Mount Fairview is directly across the lake and makes for a
fine view as well. If the weather is iffy and you are looking for a sport climbing day,
this makes for a fine objective due to its accessibility. Worst case scenario via bad
weather is that you end up back in the bar or cafeteria at the Chateau.

Essential Gear
Single 60 meter Rope, Rack of mostly small to medium gear, Climbing Shoes,
Helmet, etc