Helena Ridge Scramble

Lat/Lon: 51.3167°N, 115 .9056 °W - CLICK FOR TOPO MAP
Helena Ridge is located to the east of the Castle Mountain Mass if above Rockbound
Lake in Banff National Park, one of four connecting national parks making up the
central Canadian Rockies.   Helena Ridge was officially named by a geologist after
his wife in 1910.   Helena Ridge is in clear view as you travel the TransCanada west
bound.   Castle Mountain is to the left, Stuart Knob (named after the same geologist's
son) is to the rear and center and Helena Ridge is to the right.

The only published route up Helena Ridge is the easy scramble (summer). I
ascended Helena Ridge in the winter and experienced extreme western winds and
slab avalanche conditions. The trail ascent up to Rockbound Lake is a common one
via the 9km Rockbound Lake Trail and makes for a viable ski trial in the winter.
However, the winter ascent from Rockbound Lake to the summit of Helena Ridge will
require the use of snowshoes and/or crampons.

I can't say much about the views due to the weather I ascended in, but they no doubt
are worthwhile.

Getting There
The Trans-Canada dissects Banff National Park east to west as you come in from
Calgary. Drive to Castle Junction 31 kilometers west of Banff via either the
Trans-Canada Highway or Bow Valley Parkway (more Elk to be spotted along the
Parkway). From Trans-Canada, take the Castle Junction exit and proceed east under
a bridge (huge nest on the bridge houses an Osprey who has raised young every
year I have lived here) and turn right at the stop sign and pull into the Rockbound
Lake trailhead on your left. From Bow Valley Parkway, Rockbound Lake trail head will
be on your right before the Castle Junction gas station.

Red Tape
You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter the park. This
pass is good for all four national parks. If you plan many visits to Canadian National
Parks within one year, you should purchase an annual pass. There are no permit
requirements to climb in Banff National Park, but all camping is regulated. There is
also a backcountry permit required if you plan on spending a night in the backcountry
versus the town campsites. This can be obtained via the parks website which is
included above. Park headquarters are located in Banff and you will drive through the
manned kiosks as you enter the park.

This is active grizzly country, therefore, you should always have bear spray on your
person during non-hibernation months. I advise checking with Parks Canada for any
area and/or trail closures.

When To Climb
As with most scrambles in the Canadian Rockies, the driest time is from June
through September. I chose to climb Helena Ridge in December in alpine conditions
via snowshoes and crampons.    There are no published backcountry ski routes for
Helena Ridge, but there is one for neighboring Castle Mountain in Chic Scott's
"Summits & Icefields Canadian Rockies".   Helena Ridge is so wind blown, skiing to
the summit is not conducive.

Camping
You basically start this trip at the Castle Mountain Campground. You can go on line
at Banff National Park to pick your camp site and obtain your camping permit. Two
other options are the Johnston Canyon Resort and Campground several kilometers
south on the Bow Valley Parkway and the Castle Mountain Hostel located at Castle
junction. You will also be required to obtain your backcountry permit, if you are going
to use a backcountry site, which is separate, but can be obtained simultaneously.

Mountain Conditions
The Banff National Park website has weather, wildlife reports, trail closures, etc.
Outside of the parks web site, Canadian Avalanche Association is also useful,
particularly for winter travel. Canadian Alpine Accident Reports is also extremely
relevant.   The gully above Rockbound Lake that leads to the Helena Ridge col is
typically filled with snow and wind loaded.   Caution is advised.

Route
This is a 5000'+/- ascent day.   From the parking area, proceed up Rockbound Lake
Trail to its terminus at Rockbound Lake (9 kilometers). You will bypass Tower Lake
on your left. This whole area becomes an incredible setting below the Castle
Mountain massif (photo below).

Flank Rockbound lake to the southeast.   In winter conditions it can be difficult to
determine where to cross the lake at the southeast corner depending on the
frozen condition of the lake.   Proceed with caution. I chose climbers left up an
obvious snow filled gully that leads up to a natural bench above Rockbound Lake to
the east.   An alpine ax could be helpful in a place or two as you ascend.

If you have done a summer scramble to Stuart Knob or Castle Mountain, it is the
same path you are following to a high point above the northeast corner of Rockbound
Lake.   After you ascend this small slope, Helena Ridge will come into full view to
your right.   It is well protected on its western flank by steep cliffs.   There is an
obvious large break in the ridge that leads to an extremely windblown col.   To avoid
avalanche concerns, we strapped on crampons and ascended the ice laden
scree on climbers right to this col.

Once at the col, turn left and ascend a somewhat steep broad slope to a summit.
The actual summit cairn is a few meters hike "down" from the high point on the
ridge.   There was a summit register in place in 2005.   Hoar frost covered this entire
exposed ridge, but most snow had been blown off.

On descent, I noticed that the snow depth was minimal at the col due to westerly
winds blowing it up and over the ridge.   I chose the fast glissade descent, staying
skiers right in the snow filled gully.   I eventually penetrated a slab approximately
3/4 of the way down and a large wind blown slab arched and fractured above me
(photo to the right), therefore I jumped immediately to the rock croppings to my
right and descended the rocks and traversed the snow slope back east at a
lower elevation.   The descent back down to the lake can be the crux of this winter
objective (photo- right).   Critique snow conditions above Rockbound Lake at all
times on your ascent and descent.

Essential Gear
Winter- Alpine Ax, Snowshoes or Alpine Skies, Poles, Compass, Map, Crampons,
Warm Mitts and Clothes, Goggles, Gaiters, etc.

Trip Report
Peter Valchev and I had skied on horrible snow conditions in Kananaskis Country
the week prior.   Avalanche conditions were high, so we were looking for an easy
scramble to make a winter ascent of.   We mistakenly took snowshoes on this outing
as Rockbound Lake Trail was lined with good fresh snow versus ice which was my
guess.   We could have skied from the parking area if we had brought them along.

The slab I almost set off was a serious one.   It slid about 6 inches and was deep
and wide.    Conditions in December 2005 consist of the worst base layer I have
seen in the past five years.   The total trip took 10 hours and we were moving right
along.   During the summer months, we would do this trip in less than half that
amount of time.