Heart Creek Technical Rock Climbs

Lat/Lon: 51.0450°N, 115.1561°W- CLICK FOR TOPO MAP
Heart Creek crosses the TransCanada in Kananaskis Provincial Park before you
reach Canmore and the National Parks coming from the east. It forms a canyon that
narrows as it winds its way to the backside (north) of Mount Lorette. Its name is
derived from Heart Mountain which borders Heart Creek to the east.   Heart Mountain
has a heart-shaped thick layer of limestone (photo) at the summit that is angled
such to be easily viewed from the TransCanada, particularly traveling east.
Kananaskis Provincial Park encompasses over 4,000 square kilometers of foothills
and mountains bordering Banff National Park in the central Canadian Rockies.

The climbing is as diverse in Heart Creek as any of Canmore’s local climbing
scenes. Over 130 routes line 15 different walls along a 1.2km trail that meanders
south back and forth across the creek. The ratings vary from 5.4 on Bunny Hill to
5.13c further in on the Bayon Wall. The majority of routes are rated 5.10-5.11.   There
are also ice climbing routes at the southern end of the canyon.   As in all canyons in
the Canadian Rockies, chasing the sun can be quite the challenge on cold days.
First Rock and Jupiter Rock get the morning sun.   Golden Arch and Upper Heart
Slab are good for early and/or late season. This website, sponsored by our local
climbing gym, has gone through the painstaking task of putting together quite
the print friendly topo climbing maps showing all the routes.   These maps are
more beneficial than our local guide book, Sport Climbs in the Canadian Rockies,
but I recommend you take both into the canyon.

The parking area for Heart Creek, along side the TransCanada, is one of the best
(and only) viewpoints for Mount Fable to the north. Whichever route(s) you chose,
start the day off right at the most popular local climbers hangout, the Summit Café on
Cougar Creek Drive off of Benchlands Trail in Canmore. It is the best coffee shop in
town and serves breakfast and sacked lunches. Ask for Steve.

Getting There
The TransCanada Highway runs from Calgary through the Rocky Mountain Canadian
National Parks on its way to Vancouver. Right before you enter Banff National Park,
there are the towns of Canmore and Exshaw. The official parking area is at the
southwest corner of the Lac des Arcs exit off of the TransCanada.   Most climbers
however, just pull off onto the south side of the freeway at the creek itself. There is a
large parking area established at this location. Whether officials prefer people to use
it or not, it appears to be quite tolerated. Two trails start along the creek:   the Heart
Mountain scramble trail, and the sport climbing trail which runs along Heart Creek
itself.

Red Tape
Heart Creek is located in Kananaskis Country. There are no permit requirements to
enter, climb and/or park in Kananaskis. I do advise checking with the park website
link provided above for possible trail closures, although Heart Creek is rarely if ever
closed.

All camping is regulated. There is also a backcountry permit required if you plan on
spending a night in the backcountry versus the town campsites. This can be
obtained via the Kananaskis website which is included in the camping section
below. There is no official camping allowed back in Heart Creek.

When To Climb
As with most rock climbing in the Canadian Rockies, the driest time is from June
through September. Virtually no one rock climbs in Heart Creek during the winter
months.

Camping
The closest camp site would be back in Canmore at the town campsite located at
the information center off of the TransCanada. The Alpine Club of Canada’s
national office is located in Canmore and also serves as a hostel, a recently
renovated one at that.

You cannot camp outside of the marked specific camping areas in Canmore or
Kananaskis. Refer to the Kananaskis Provincial Park website for more information
regarding backcountry camping. Of course there are tons of lodging options in
Canmore from 5 star spas to cheap motels.

Mountain Conditions
The Kananaskis Provincial Park website is a very thorough park website, including
trail conditions and/or closures, wildlife notices, weather conditions, avalanche
conditions, camping permits, whitewater conditions, etc. It is an excellent source if
you are going to spend any time here and comparable to any National Park website I
have used. The Canadian Avalanche Association site is also useful, particularly for
winter travel. Canadian Alpine Accident Reports are also extremely helpful. There are
four recorded accidents at Heart Creek.

Route(s)
To reach Bunny Hill, you follow the Heart Creek trail almost to its end. You will cross
a bridge from right to left and right in front of you to the left is a wall over a small
beach. Some of the routes to the far left are actually over water and there is a
waterfall that ends the wall to the left. Outside of First Rock, this could be the second
most popular wall in Heart Creek.

Routes listed from left to right as you face the wall:
Heartless- 5.10b- 6 bolts to anchor, one obstacle to cross, decent route
Rat in a Cage- 5.10a- 4 bolts to anchor, short but challenging route
Chip Butty- 5.10a- 3 bolts to same anchor as Rat in a Cage, little tougher navigating
over the feature
Simple- 5.4
You Oughtta Know- 5.9+- 9 bolts to anchor, longest route on Bunny Hill, a good one
Come as you Are- 5.9- 6 bolts to anchor, kind of a smear
Until it Sleeps- 5.10d
Contemporary Cuisine- 5.10b
Rough But Well Groomed- 5.9+
Carpe Diem- 5.10d

First Rock is, you guessed it, the first wall you come to on the right hand side of
Heart Creek. Due to the ease of its routes and location, it is probably the most
popular crag in Heart Creek, therefore, some of the rock can get fairly worn. The
easier routes are to the left and the more difficult ones are to the right.

Routes listed from left to right as you face the wall:
Main Section (left)
Brownout- 5.10c
Potentilla Pillar- 5.8- 10 bolts to anchor, 27 meter rappel. A little worn, not overly
challenging.
Heartline- 5.7- 10 bolts to anchor, not very interesting.
A Dream of White Schnauzers- 5.6
Heartfelt- 5.10c
Trio- 5.6- 3 bolts to anchor, short route
Less than Zero- 5.8- 4 bolts to anchor with a roof problem towards the top, short, but
fun route
Back to Zero- 5.9- 5 bolts to anchor, nice route
Feel On- 5.10.b
Fell on Baby- 5.10b- 5 bolts to anchor, some of that worn rock I was warning about
Dynamic Dumpling- 5.11a
Survival of the Fattest- 5.10c
Cavebird- 5.9- 7 bolts over fun features to anchor, 18 meter rappel
Pyramid Power- 5.9
Midnight Rambler- 5.10c
Sweet Souvenir- 5.11c
Honky Tonk Woman- 5.10c
Voodoo Lounge- 5.11c
Let it Bleed- 5.10a
Paint it Black- 5.11a
Bitch- 5.11b
Sticky Fingers- 5.10c

Small Section to the Far Right
Dandelions- 5.8- 6 bolts to anchor, fun route
Dead Flowers- 5.10b
Brown Sugar- 5.10a
Heartburn- 5.9
Heartburn Direct- 5.10c
Wild Horses- 5.9

The Solstice and Heart and Sole (msp) are across the creek from First Rock (east
side). From First Rock cross the bridge and immediately start ascending a faint trial
up the hill to your left that leads up to a cliff on Heart Mountain’s west slope. Heart
and Sole (msp) is the first set of routes you come to and several minutes further
south around the corner is The Solstice. These are all smearing type routes.

Routes listed from left to right as you face the wall:
Itchy Jig- 5.7- 6 bolts to anchor, much more entertaining that Solstice routes. Cross
over at least four features at a diagonal.
Sole Food- 5.9
Heart and Sole- 5.9
Mr. Percival- 5.10a

Electric Koolaid Ocean- 5.6- 5 bolts to anchor, 20 meter rappel. Great one for
beginners.
Herbivore Dance- 5.5- 4 bolts smearing to anchor, 20 meter rappel. Same.
Iron Eclipse- 5.8- 6 bolts to anchor, crux is the start, 16 meter rappel.
Tribal Wedding- 5.9
Merry Pranksters- 5.10a

Essential Gear
At least one 60 Meter Rope, Helmet, Climbing Shoes, Some Gear (mostly bolted
sport routes though), The Local Guide Book (Sport Climbs in the Canadian Rockies)
and these Topo Maps.

Trip Report
Heart Creek is close, I have been there a lot over the years. Funny story, once two of
us were back there without another human even at the parking lot. We were done
climbing at the Solstice and I took my partner back to the end of the canyon to show
her where the ice route forms. On our way back we ran into a horse with no halter or
markings of any kind. This is not a place for a horse to hang out. We tried to catch it
with our climbing rope and bring it out, but no such luck. It was a pretty funky moment
really. The rangers eventually retrieved it.

Probably the best of the Canmore crags to learn on. If you are in town and need
someone at the end of a rope, send me an email. Cheers.