Grand Sentinel, South Face, Alpine II, 5.9

Lat/Lon: 51.34250°N / 116.23028°W - CLICK FOR TOPO MAP
The Grand Sentinel is a 100+ meter obelisk quartzite rock tower on the back side
(north) of Pinnacle Mountain in Banff National Park, one of four connecting national
parks making up the central Canadian Rockies. The Grand Sentinel features two
classic and popular routes, the four pitch Alpine II, 5.9 trad route up the South
Face and the four pitch 5.10d sport route up Grand Sentinel’s southeast arête
(Cardiac Arête). The South Face offers a 5.9 variation finish versus the 5.8 original
route, and that is the route I climbed in June, 2006. Loose rock is an issue on the
Grand Sentinel as, despite being quartzite, it gives the appearance it could crumble if
you leaned on it in the right spot. We encountered several large loose blocks
ourselves on the South Face.

The South Face route (Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies) on the
Grand Sentinel involves 4 pitches of trad climbing with solid stations (2006) and one
piton under a large roof over the third pitch. There are two finishes after the third
pitch, a 5.4 loose pitch that traverses out left (west) and a much more aesthetic 5.9
direct pitch straight to the summit which utilizes small gear in flakes. The third pitch,
5.8, is a fun challenge following a wide crack to a short but well-ventilated roof
problem.

Cardiac Arête, 5.10d, (Sport Climbs in the Canadian Rockies) is a sustained 4 pitch
sport route that runs right of the south face basically following the southeast corner of
the Grand Sentinel which is the Mount Temple side. The climbing is sustained in the
5.9-5.10a range with 5.10d cruxes along the way. The route is not as loose as the
south face, but rock fall is still an objectionable hazard en route. The lower part of
Cardiac Arête gets late morning sun and the upper section early afternoon sun. This
route is well protected at 8-12 bolts per pitch. Take plenty of draws and several long
slings for a roof here and there.

Blocked in by Pinnacle Mountain to the south, the majority of your views are limited to
the Paradise Valley region, including Mount Lefroy, Mount Temple and the backside
of The Mitre, Mount Haddo and Mount Aberdeen. The “Valley of the Ten Peaks” views
are magnificent on the Larch Valley Trail approach, particularly the north face routes
of Mount Fay and Mount Deltaform’s Super Couloiur route.

Getting There
The Trans-Canada dissects Banff National Park east to west as you come in from
Calgary. Travel to the Lake Louise exit and turn left through town and follow this road
2.5 km to the Moraine Lake Road. Turn left and proceed to the parking area at the
Moraine Lake Lodge (dead end).

Red Tape
You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter Banff National
Park coming from the east on the Trans-Canada. This pass is good for all four
national parks. If you plan many visits to Canadian National Parks within one year,
you should purchase an annual pass. There are no permit requirements to climb in
Banff or Yoho National Parks, but all camping is regulated. There is also a
backcountry permit required if you plan on spending a night in the backcountry
versus the conventional campsites. This can be obtained via the parks website
which is included in the camping section below. The huts are managed by the Alpine
Club of Canada versus the Parks. The Alpine Club of Canada headquarters is
located in Canmore, AB, the Banff National Park headquarters is located in Banff, AB
and Yoho National Park headquarters is located in Field, BC. You will drive through
the manned national park kiosks as you enter Banff National Park on the Trans-
Canada.

This is active grizzly country, therefore, you should always have bear spray on your
person during the non-hibernation periods. I advise checking with Parks Canada for
any area and/or trail closures. THE LARCH VALLEY TRAIL USED TO ACCESS THE
GRAND SENTINEL IS NORMALLY RESTRICTED DUE TO BEAR ACTIVITY.

When to Climb
I climbed the Grand Sentinel in late June and had to cross some steep snow slopes
en route with trail runners, but the kick steps were easy. Hiking poles offer good
assistance with this traverse since you can leave them at the base of the route with
your shoes, etc. The snow is better than the scree, so I advise going this time of year.
Despite its popularity, the Grand Sentinel is always loose, early or late season. It is a
decaying structure of quartzite that will never improve in that area.

Camping
Due to bear closures and the resulting re-arrangement of the Paradise Valley
campsite in 2006, the closest camp site would be back in town at the Lake Louise
Campground. You can go on line at Banff National Park to pick a camp site and
obtain your camping permit. You will also be required to obtain your backcountry
permit which is separate, but can be obtained simultaneously if you plan on camping
at a backcountry site like Paradise Valley. The Lake Louise Alpine Center Hostel is a
great place to eat and has been recently renovated, but is more expensive than your
average hostel. Of course those with the big bucks can camp out at the Moraine Lake
Lodge itself which is at the start of your climb basically.

Mountain Conditions
The Yoho National Park and Banff National Park websites have weather, wildlife
reports, trail closures, etc. Outside of the parks websites, Canadian Avalanche
Association is also useful, particularly for winter travel. Canadian Alpine Accident
Reports is also extremely relevant. Several accidents have occurred on the Grand
Sentinel.

Route- South Face
Park at the Moraine Lake Lodge at the end of Moraine Lake Road near Lake Louise.
Hike along the right side of the lake to the signed Larch Valley Trail on the right. More
often than not this trail has a 6 person minimum restriction due to local grizzly activity.
As a climber, I have always ignored this precaution, but be warned that you can be
fined for disobeying the restriction. Continue on the Larch Valley Trail for
approximately 2000’ in elevation gain to the Minnestimma Lakes. Continue another
500’ up the “big Z” (photo) to the Pinnacle Mountain - Mount Temple col. From the col
the Grand Sentinel comes into clear view (photo) to the northwest framed in front of
Mount Lefroy. Descend the col on a switchback trail of large scree until it makes
sense to leave it for a traverse over snow and/or scree slopes on the north side of
Pinnacle Mountain. You want to aim for the base of the south face of the Grand
Sentinel. As you get closer, you will see a small notch you need to ascend to a mini
col. This is a good spot in which to study all four pitches. Descend to the southwest
corner of the south face and rope up.

FIRST PITCH, 5.5, 15 Meters- Ascend the southwest blocky corner for a short
distance to a solid ledge and bolted belay. I placed one piece of gear on this lead.

SECOND PITCH, 5.7, 25 Meters- Ascend a nicely featured face moving right into a
corner or two. It goes left as well, but the better line is right allowing better placement
of gear. Top out at a bolted belay just left of the large left facing crack/corner.

THIRD PITCH, 5.8, 25 Meters- The fun pitch of the route. Start into the large
crack/corner and find easy placements for large gear and search hard for your
smaller gear. You can move out onto the face a time or two and it is not the kind of
sustained crack that keeps you pumped. There are plenty of rest opportunities.
Climb to a roof above. Once directly underneath the roof, look for a piton in the
middle of the under cling. Make sure to use a long runner here. Move out and over
the roof via an airy move or two on somewhat suspect rock. Once on top of the roof,
you will find your third station. Some small people might be tempted to follow a
tunnel underneath the roof but that would not be climbing, but rather caving.

FOURTH PITCH, 5.9, 25 Meters- The fourth pitch is the crux pitch and although the
guide book, Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies, suggest an alternative
5.4 escape, I cannot imagine taking such a long approach to an aesthetic climb like
the Grand Sentinel and not finish it direct. This is actually a fantastic pitch and the
only pitch on the route that is relatively void of loose rock. Start immediately above the
bolted belay on top of Pitch 3. I felt this was the crux move of the pitch, getting the first
few meters in and protected. Work your way into a depression. Move right and out of
this spot to solid flakes offering nice placements directly above. From here, finish
the route.

The Grand Sentinel has limited seating capacity on its summit and a variety of rappel
stations. We had the luxury of rapping the trad route, whereas a party ahead of us,
chose to rap the sport route. The sport route has stations at 25 meter intervals, but
they appeared to have some difficulty with it. We reached the ground before they did
and I heard a significant amount of murmuring on their rappel. Both teams used
double ropes. I believe more than anything, they might not have been used to free air
rapping and that is the kind of rappel they had. In any regard, you should be able to
rap off of either route.

Essential Gear
Double 60 Meter Ropes, quite a bit of large gear, i.e. hexes and cams, if you really
want to protect that 3rd pitch well. Small gear will be needed for the 4th pitch. There
is a sling on a chock stone that you can attach a draw to in the lower section of
the 3rd pitch as well as a piton to protect the roof move with. Helmet, climbing
shoes, plenty of draws, harness, etc. Trail runners and hiking poles are adequate for
the approach. Bear spray for the infamous Larch Valley Trail.