Fable-Gap Traverse

Lat/Lon: 51.11°N, 115.22°W
The Fable-Gap high level traverse is considered a local Canmore climb, although not a
common one. Due to it's "local" remoteness and incredible 360 degree views, I rate this as
one of the finer day climbs in the Bow Valley.

There are three established routes on Fable herself, the traverse scramble, the South
Ridge Alpine II 5.4 and the Southeast Ridge Alpine II 5.5. These routes can be combined.

Fable is a prominent, monolithic rock peak best viewed from the popular sport climbing
area off of Trans-Canada known as Heart Creek near Lac des Arc. It is located in the
Fairholme Range. In 1947 a group claimed they were unsuccessful in climbing the
mountain due to heavy bush. A subsequent attempt by Hind, Parker and Tarrant was
successful and they decided the story of heavy bush was a "fable," thus its name.

Getting There
Take the Bow Valley Provincial Park exit off of Trans-Canada and proceed north bypassing
the town of Seebe and coming to a stop at Highway 1A. Head west to Exshaw. In Exshaw,
take a right on Windridge Road on the east side of Exshaw Creek. Drive .8 km to Mount
Lorette Drive and the dead-end of Windridge Road. Parking is available by the footbridge.
This is the start. However, I recommend taking a bike and placing it at Grotto Pond, further
down Highway 1A to assist in your return.

Cross the bridge and follow Exshaw Creek for about one hour. The trail will turn west (left)
into a major subsidiary valley that passes underneath the south side of the mountain.
Follow this up to the base of the south ridge.

For the southeast ridge climb, only proceed left for .5 km and then cut up right through
timber to gain a well defined ridge that leads up above tree line to the east ridge of the
buttress at the base of the main ridge.

Red Tape
The Fable-Gap Traverse is located in Kananaskis Country, part of the Alberta Provincial
Park system. There are no parking or climbing permits required. There are no official camp
sites on the routes. The closest camping is back east to Bow Valley Provincial Park off of
Trans-Canada. Canmore is the closest town for lodging. Proper bear etiquette is required.
The Fairholme wolf pack, as small as it is, still roams this area as well. Here is the link for
Kan anaskis Provincial Park which provides weather, trail, camping and wildlife information.

When To Climb
Mount Fable's climbing season is longer than most in the Canadian Rockies, starting as
early as late May.

Route Description
Cross the bridge and follow Exshaw Creek for about one hour. The trail will turn west (left)
into a major subsidiary valley that passes underneath the south side of the mountain.
Follow this up to the base of the south ridge.

I combined the Alpine II 5.4 South Ridge climb with the Fable-Gab Traverse. Both of these
routes make a fine long day outing, but are located in two separate guide books which I
included to the left.

From the base of the south ridge, you will observe a series of limestone slabs. Ascend the
second to last slab and follow it on solid water-worn limestone to where it ends. Traverse
left into an obvious gully and up to a horizontal ledge system. Then climb a 30 meter (5.4)
diagonal crack to the ridge just below the summit. Proceed to the summit.

Descend west to the col above the drainage (8200'). Start your long ridge climb over to Gap
Peak. You must transcend the inside slope of a peak directly west at 8600' and turn south.
You will switch back and forth from east to west several times on this ridge route. You
spend tons of quality time on top enjoying 360' views. As you start your ascent on Gap
Peak, the ridge becomes moderate to difficult at times. It took me 3 hours from Fable's
summit to reach Gap Peak.

On descent, I took the water worn canyon south of Gap Peak. I wouldn't normally take such
a route, but met a young man on Gap Peak's summit who had just ascended Gap Peak
from the opposite direction. He was concerned his partner got lost in the canyon, so we
paired up and had a great time working several smaller problems on smooth water
worn rock and even had one 5.7 down climb to the side. It took us 2 hours to descend
this route which landed us right at Grotto Pond. It is longer, but definitely fun! This is a
difficult descent. The normal descent is via open slopes below the summit that lead easily
to upper Grotto Creek and is straightforward. Once you emerge from Grotto Canyon,
proceed east to Grotto Pond (and your bike if you stashed it there, otherwise hitch back to
Exshaw).

This was a 4300' +/- elevation day.

Essential Gear
This was a solo climb for me, but if paired, I advise taking a short rope and a few runners
using natural pro if desired. I don't believe any rack is needed, but to each his own. A
helmet is an absolute for me. Good hiking boots or lite alpine boots are adequate. Always
take gaiters for scree in case you encounter any. And remember this is a ridge climb, so be
liberal with the sun screen and camera.

Trip Report
I took the Alpine II 5.4 South Ridge Route up solid limestone slabs. However, the scramble
follows right of the drainage and head up the steep scree, crossing to the right before you
reach the col (8200') targeting the start of the left hand side of Fable. This is a pleasant
scramble to the top with limited exposure. There was no register on either mountain this
day. Fable has a surprisingly great view of Assiniboine, Gloria and Eon. It took me 4 hours
to reach Fable summit.

You spend tons of quality time on top enjoying 360' views on the traverse to Gap Peak. As
you start your ascent on Gap Peak, the ridge becomes moderate to difficult at times. It took
me 3 hours to Gap Peak.

On descent, I took the water worn canyon south of Gap Peak.