Cloudwalker, Circus Wall, Island in the Sky, Snow Canyon

Lat/Lon: 37.1933°N, 113.6425°W Click for Google Map
The Circus Wall of Island in the Sky is by far the most popular climbing destination
within the confines of Snow Canyon. Most of its popularity is attributed to the classic
5.7 for the entire Canyon if not St. George area, Pygmy Alien. Circus Wall is thusly
named due to the confusion created by published routes crossing each others
paths. Only one of the eight routes on Circus Wall avoids this “circus”,
Cloudwalker. Cloudwalker is actually to the left of the Circus Wall (main) hidden by a
corner that runs 200’ before it peters out forming a significant buttress. As is
consistent with most routes put in by Goss, the rating seems a little on the
conservative side (easier). Cloudwalker is a mixed trad/sport route with 200’ of trad
up the corner for the first pitch and 20 bolts (not pins!) placed for the next 200’ (two
pitches).

Snow Canyon State Park is a state park of 7100+ acres just north of St. George,
Utah. The Circus Wall has eight published routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.10b and
offers the easiest approach in the park via the Pioneer Names trail. It receives
morning shade (until noon in mid summer) and afternoon sun that makes it an ideal
winter climbing crag.

Park at the Pioneer Names trailhead pullout on the right side of the road after you
pass a dip in the road beyond the West End parking lot heading northeast through
the park. Stay on the trail directly up to the wall (where the pioneer names are carved
into the arch) and turn left and proceed around the corner. The route follows the
inside left corner itself.

Route Description
1st Pitch- (200’) 5.8/ I ran the start of this route out 40’ on easy terrain to a bolt
placed on the wall over the corner. Gear is easily placed from there, medium to
large, until you reach rap anchors at the top of the corner. I never experienced a crux
move and the whole pitch felt more like 5.6 by Snow Canyon standards. Older routes
(pins) are more difficult than newer routes (bolts). This is a general rule thumb no
matter where you climb but particularly for Snow Canyon. You will pass two mid
station anchors en route. One used for a mid rap station and another used to make a
top rope practice pitch for the local guiding company. (photo)

2nd Pitch- (80’) 5.10a/ Proceed straight up from the 1st pitch station following 9
bolts to chains. There are two sets of chains, use the left set on a hanging belay
below a treed ledge. The pitch is straight vertical, but consists of fairly dependable
varnish with variable choices. The pitch feels more like 5.9 versus 5.10. The second
should top out and clove hitch the tree on the other end of the ledge and bring up the
first onto the ledge. (photo)

3rd Pitch- (115’) 5.8/ The guide book fails to mention the rating on this pitch. I
peg it at about 5.8. The ledge offers a great shady belay with one of the largest trees
growing on Island in the Sky. Continue up angled ground on varnished edges to rap
chains just below the summit through 11 bolts. This is a real straight forward pitch
and route. (photo)

Descent
It is imperative if you only have one rope not to rap off the end on descent of
Cloudwalker. This fact is well noted in the guidebook and I know what Todd is
referencing so I will note it again here. If one did not tie knots in the end of their rope
and rapped straight down, he/she could easily miss the ledge if they were not paying
attention, and possibly not recover or know how to climb the rope. PAY ATTENTION
or better yet, use 60m double ropes. 60m doubles will take you all the way back,
200’, to the top of the first pitch. However, rope management skills are at a premium
if you take this option. The sandstone varnish on Island in the Sky is notable for
catching ropes. You also go into a free air rappel after the ledge, so stop here to deal
with any entanglements. Once you come out of the free air rappel, start walk rapping
your way back to the right. During rappel, be careful not to kick any of the very loose
rock on this section. Pay attention that your rope above does not dislodge anything
on top of you. Probably the better solution is to go ahead and use the ledge as a mid
rappel station whether you have two ropes or not. Doubles will still save you a rap
from the top of the first pitch.

Essential Gear
Double 60m ropes are best. Minimum a single 60m rope. Camelots #1 to 4, doubled
or tripled if you like to sew things up. The corner will take large hexes too. I ran the
first 40’ with no pro and utilized a single bolt and the two mid stations as three points
along with a few cams. The 2nd and 3rd pitches are fully bolted. A few regular sized
slings for the trad and then at least 10 draws for the sport section. Probably best not
to combine the last two pitches due to the large ledge causing some rope drag, but if
you wanted to, have 20 slings/draws ready. To combine these last two pitches would
require every inch of your rope and then some (based on the rap) despite the
guidebooks measurements.

Notes: The "Tank" and I tagged two routes on Circus Wall before the sun caught up
with us and then headed back up to Crawdad Canyon to finish the day. I like
Cloudwalker, a classic "feel good" route that is rated stiffer than it really is. Mixes trad
with sport evenly over 400' of consistent climbing to the top of Island in the Sky.