Circus Wall, Island in the Sky

Lat/Lon: 37.1933°N, 113.6425°W
Snow Canyon is divided up into five separate climbing areas: Hackberry Wash,
Island in the Sky, Balkan Dome, the Enclosure and West Canyon. I have climbed in
all five and Island in the Sky has by far the most routes (64+) and is further divided up
into nine distinct walls with multiple routes ranging from 5.6-5.12b: Breakfast Nook,
Circus Wall, Aftershock Wall, The War Zone, The Dip Area, The Doghouse, The Sand
Dunes Area, The Indian Wall and the South End.

There are over 20 published routes on the various walls of Island in the Sky across
from the sand dunes in Snow Canyon which comprise the “Sand Dunes Area.” As of
June, 2007, I have climbed half of these routes. The walls in Snow Canyon are
comprised of soft sandstone and therefore climbing the same grades in Snow
Canyon compared to granite or limestone slabs or hardened sandstone makes the
grading somewhat stiffer by consensus. Many of the routes are a mixture of trad and
sport, with much of the sport portions relying on older pins versus bolts. Snow
Canyon is full of Red Navajo sandstone, capped by an overlay of black lava rock. This
process creates significant, but sometimes delicate climbing holds called desert
varnish. Wet or not, some varnish holds do give way from time to time. I have taken a
25’ whipper when one of these varnishes failed on a run out route in Sand Dunes.
I highly advise staying on the well climbed existing routes of Snow Canyon. If
they are dirty (thus unattended), I can assure you they are probably not worth it.

Access for climbing simply cannot get easier (ok it can). Park at the Pioneer Names
trailhead pullout on the right side of the road after you pass a dip in the road beyond
the West End parking lot heading northeast through the park. Stay on the trail directly
up to the wall (where the pioneer names are carved into the arch). All the Circus Wall
routes are left of this arch. Snow Canyon is exceptional in that most are climbing
nearby Zion and Red Rocks leaving it very quiet. Normally we are the only party
climbing in the park and there are over 200 routes. One could camp and climb here
for a week and not get bored. It has a significant state park campground. The wildlife
is a little different than what I am used to in Canada. The most likely suspects are
Gila monsters, desert tortoises, scorpions and the Mojave rattlesnakes which I have
seen up close. Please avoid walking on the microbiological soil. It is the dark
crust that holds the surface layers together and prevents erosion. It takes
centuries to reoccur. This whole ecosystem is much more delicate than most.

Route Description(s)
The Routes are Right to Left, South to North

Trapeze – 5.10b – 2 Pitches/
Roar of the Greasepaint – 5.10a – 2 Pitches/
Illegal Alien – 5.10b/
Pygmy Alien – 5.7 – 3 Pitches/ 1st Pitch- The first pitch is 140’ (photo) to an
anchor in the pit via 12 pins. It starts out laid back. In fact I skipped the first
two pins. Then it gets vertical on varnish edges. I know I got off track at least
once and just clipped a long runner to protect my traverse back to the line.
The pins can be confusing. The Pygmy pins are supposed to be painted
green, but much of the paint has worn off. This is a popular route and fairly
well cleaned through the first pitch. Some parties must bail at that point since
the second pitch was not such a clean pitch. There is a rap station midway
down that can be used for a bail situation (2 rappels) off of the first pitch. 2nd
Pitch- (90’) The second pitch start is the crux of the climb (photos). Move out
left of the pit via two pins. It is best to skip the first one and put a long runner
in the second one. Reach up and out of the pit and traverse ever so delicately
left and then climb back right through the next two pins (crux). Move left into a
crack and start placing finger to hand gear through a small roof to a large
alcove beneath a wide chimney. You will have to set up a gear anchor here.
The rope drag on this route can be considerable if you are not using long
runners through the pin portion. If it is a windy day, you will not be able to
verbally communicate with your belay. 3rd Pitch- The chimney is easy 5th
class climbing. I placed one piece of gear on this pitch. Enjoy the easy moves
through the chimney which leads to a leaning block, then climb easy varnish
to a larger ledge/platform with a tree. Belay off of the tree or build a crack
anchor. From here, it is 4th class scrambling to your right up and over a block
and onto the right side of a chasm. Continue up and back left to the top of the
north end of Island in the Sky.
Freak Show – 5.9/
Jimmy the Geek – 5.9 – 2 Pitches/ Hard to identify the start because the
“painted” pins referenced by Todd has mostly warn off. It is easy to get started
on the Freak Show versus Jimmy the Geek, but also easy to correct yourself
and get over right on the direct line of pins that lead to the right handed
crack/flake. This is one of those routes that is defined by one move in each
pitch. The 1st pitch is the longest (100’) and presents you with a 5.11 slab
move about midway up on loose footing. Six pins leads you to a small
crack/flake on your left that you can place a small stopper in or two. I chose to
run the route out on nice sized varnish holds straight up to the anchor. The
2nd pitch is short (40’) and with a sweet move or two as you pull a slightly
overhanging section on solid varnish edges. Head for the shared anchor with
Pygmy Alien in the hole. Double ropes will get you to the ground.
Barbarian – 5.6 – 2 Pitches/
Cloudwalker – 5.10a – 3 Pitches/ 1st Pitch- (200’) 5.8/ I ran the start of this
route out 40’ on easy terrain to a bolt placed on the wall over the corner.
Gear is easily placed from there, medium to large, until you reach rap
anchors at the top of the corner. I never experienced a crux move and the
whole pitch felt more like 5.6 by Snow Canyon standards. Older routes (pins)
are more difficult than newer routes (bolts). This is a general rule thumb no
matter where you climb but particularly for Snow Canyon. You will pass two
mid station anchors en route. One used for a mid rap station and another
used to make a top rope practice pitch for the local guiding company. 2nd
Pitch- (80’) 5.10a/ Proceed straight up from the 1st pitch station following 9
bolts to chains. There are two sets of chains, use the left set on a hanging
belay below a treed ledge. The pitch is straight vertical, but consists of fairly
dependable varnish with variable choices. The pitch feels more like 5.9
versus 5.10. The second should top out and clove hitch the tree on the other
end of the ledge and bring up the first onto the ledge. 3rd Pitch- (115’) 5.8/
The guide book fails to mention the rating on this pitch. I peg it at about 5.8.
The ledge offers a great shady belay with one of the largest trees growing on
Island in the Sky. Continue up angled ground on varnished edges to rap
chains just below the summit through 11 bolts. This is a real straight forward
pitch and route.

Red Tape
Snow Canyon State Park hours are 6:00am to 10:00pm. A day visit pass is $5.00 and
camping spots are $15.00 to $18.00 (2007). Wildlife seasonal closures as of 2007
include all Hackberry Wash routes from March 31 to June 1 and all West Canyon
routes from February 1 to June 1. The sandstone rock at Snow Canyon State Park is
not as solid as the lava influenced Black Rocks. As with most of the climbing in and
around St. George, you should avoid climbing for at least 24 hours after any rain.
My favorite place for dinner is the sushi bar at Samurai, 245 Red Cliffs Drive. The
Outdoor Outlet is one of my favorite independent climbing stores anywhere. They
know the climbing area well and have a great selection of gear at competitive prices.
Jazzy Java offers a decent cup, good sack lunches and free internet.

When to Climb
The climbing is good all year round with the exception of daytime during the summer
months. If you are climbing anywhere in southwestern Utah during the summer
months, you more than likely better get up early and finish your climb early. The walls
get brutally hot. That being said, Snow Canyon is at a higher elevation than other
immediate Saint George climbing areas (Utah Hills being the exception). In the dead
of winter, the warmer climbing is limited to Island in the Sky. Circus Wall receives
afternoon sun, but not as much direct sunlight as the Sand Dunes Area. It gets
good shade until noon in the summer.

Camping
No climbing is allowed on the rocks behind the campground. Quiet hours are 10:00
p.m. - 8:00 a.m. Generator hours are 12 noon to 4:00 p.m. Shower hours are 4:30 p.
m. to 11:OO a.m. Check out time is 2:00 p.m. You are to renew your site permit by 10:
00 a.m. Maximum length of stay is 5 nights. Pets are permitted only on West Canyon
and Whiptail Trails and must be on leash at all times. Do not dump gray water at
sites, use the dump station by the restroom. Tents on tent pads only. Bikes on
pavement only. NO FIRES June 1- Sept. 15. Fires in grills/fire rings only. Firewood
gathering is prohibited. They have a volleyball court which is pretty cool. The
restrooms are first rate. Sites 1, 2, 9, 10, 20, 21, 24, 26, & 27 cannot be reserved.
Sites 1 - 14 are hookups with water and electric. Prices are $15.00 - non-hookups
and $18.00 -water & electric. For reservations call 800-322-3770.

Notes: Named that for a reason, the routes are all over each other. Easy access and
moderate routes make for the most popular crag in Snow Canyon. Did Jimmy the
Geek and Cloudwalker on June 30, 2007. Started on Freak Show by accident and
moved over onto Jimmy the Geek. Did Pygmy Alien last February. Has one of the
most exposed moves on a 5.7 anywhere.