Big Sister Scramble

Lat/Lon: 51.01°N, 115.35°W
Big Sister (yet another mountain named Sister) is located with Middle and Little Sister in the
Bow Valley section of Kananaskis Provincial Park. The Sisters are some of the most
photographed and painted mountains in the Canadian Rockies due to their proximity to the
town of Canmore, a gateway to the Canadian Rockies.

These mountains were originally named The Three Nuns, Big Sister being more specifically
named Faith. Later they were officially named The Three Sisters. Big Sister was first
ascended in 1887 by JJ McArthur. It is the highest of the Three Sisters. A traverse has been
done of all three, but little if any beta exists on this route. The most common climb is the
scramble on Middle Sister which is just a long backcountry hike from the Canmore side
(north). The scramble on Big Sister is more challenging and begins on the south side of the
mountain. The toughest climb is Little Sister which is a full multi-pitch climb on suspect
rock.

Getting There
The Trans-Canada highway runs through Canmore. Take the downtown exit and follow it
south through town, across the Bow River to Spray Lakes Road past the Canmore Nordic
Center. Spray Lakes Road is a gravel road that winds its way up to a notch between
mountains Ha Ling and EOR (East Rundle) to the south of Canmore. Continue past the water
reservoir on your left, cross a small dam and park in a large gravel pit across from the
second dam (Three Sisters Dam), a total of 17.3 km from the Bow River Bridge in Canmore.

Red Tape
There are no permit requirements to enter, climb and/or park in Kananaskis. This is active
grizzly country however. Take bear spray. Park headquarters is located on Highway 40 which
is several km off of the Trans-Canada via an exit before Canmore. Any recent notices will be
posted on the bulletin board outside. If they are open, check in with the ranger staff, they have
tons of beta and are always friendly.

When To Climb
This is a summer scramble, best to climb from July through September. I climbed it in early
June and would rate it more difficult early season due to a snow traverse close to the summit.
There are no other published routes on the mountain, ski touring or otherwise.

Camping
Most would plan this as a day trip from Canmore where there are many places to stay,
including the Alpine Club’s Hostel and Clubhouse on the north side of town. The closest
camping can be had by crossing the Three Sisters Dam to random camp sites up and down
West Side Road. Campground reservations can be made through the Kananaskis Provincial
Park website.

Mountain Conditions
Outside of the parks web site, Canadian Avalanche Association is also useful, particularly for
winter travel.

Route
This is a 4200'+/- ascent day. From the gravel pit, start southwest and stay to the left of a huge
drainage/gully and ascend steeply to gain the ridge and keep it.

Some of the ridge can be demanding slab terrain. Toward the summit, you will encounter
some very interesting rock pinnacles, stay to the left. One such rock formation frames Sir
Douglas providing for a perfectly framed view. The main crux is a traverse over a 50 degree
slope toward the summit. If covered in snow, an involuntarily glissade here could end the
story, therefore, I recommend you make this a July trip on, unless experienced. Another
crux is an 11’ down climb prior to the final portion of the ridge. I advise descending the
ridge as well, for it makes a more enjoyable day then the large scree, although, it takes
longer. The views were tremendous of Assiniboine, Sir Douglas, Eon, Joffre and of course
the hamlet of Canmore and the Bow Valley.

Essential Gear
Ice Ax (in case there is snow on the 50 degree slope), Helmet, Lunch, Camera, Underwear,
Bear Spray, etc. Crampons if early season.

Trip Report
According to the summit register, I was the 2nd person up in 2003. I find that hard to believe,
but conditions were late snow which makes this route actually quite difficult and exposed at
the top. I did not take crampons, but my predecessor did. I found using his steps helpful. I
preferred the ridge the whole way which avoided literally all scree. I used the ridge as my
descent as well (some down climbing), which of course took longer than the scree as well. I
made the summit in 3 hours and lolly gagged at the top and on the way down. Views were
great!