Beowulf, WI 4

Lat/Lon: 51.32583°N / 115.24139°W- Click for Satellite Image
Beowulf is listed as 670m of ice in Joe Josephson’s guide book, “Waterfall Ice-
Climbs in the Canadian Rockies”, but don’t let that deter you. Outside of the first and
last two pitches, the ice never exceeds WI 3. The first two pitches of Beowulf
represent some of the most aesthetic ice in the North Ghost. They are two
separate curtains twisted into a narrow steep canyon (photos). I combined these
pitches which is easy to do with proper rope technique. Don’t count on
communicating with your partner once you enter the canyon. At times the wind can
roar through the steep, twisting and narrow canyon walls located in one of the more
remote sections of the Ghost.

Unlike Valley of the Birds and The Good, The Bad and The Ugly (GBU), Beowulf, and
even more to such extent Devil’s Punchbowl, see considerably less traffic. Part of
this remoteness has recently been enhanced over new rules regarding how far you
can 4-wheel drive it back along the Ghost River. Due to protected trout populations,
the provincial government has limited access beyond the first river crossing
which makes for quite the long day including a long hike in, long climb, descent
and long hike out. Beowulf is definitely more of an alpine IV adventure considering
this extra trek. Bring your headlamps and start early. If you want to tack on Devil’s
Punchbowl as we did, you might consider bringing a bivy.

Beowulf and Devil’s Punchbowl were in great shape in early March. The constant
wind seems to keep Beowulf fairly dry except for the last short curtain which is up
and out of the canyon and was seeping quite profusely in March.

Getting There
From Calgary or Canmore, access 1A which parallels the TransCanada to the north.
13.4kms west of the Hwy 22 junction in Cochrane is the Forestry Trunk Road (Route
940). Turn north on the Forestry Trunk Road for 23kms to a gated gravel road on your
left. There is a trail head information kiosk board here, but no obvious sign. If you
find the gate closed, it is imperative that you close the gate behind you. Most
climbers only take 4-wheel drive vehicles beyond this point, but depending on
conditions, other vehicles can travel the road. This rough road goes for another
17kms until it reaches the “big hill”. Along the way there is one ice/water crossing. If
this hill is muddy or icy or has too much snow, it can be extremely difficult to
navigate. Orient Point’s “The Real Big Drip- 200m- V, M7+, WI 7” can be viewed to the
southwest from atop this hill. This is a remote area and very little exists in the way of
facilities or emergency help.

At the bottom of the hill, turn right and do your best to follow a sometimes vague,
sometimes obvious, track along the right of the wash until it becomes essential to
cross the wash heading west and navigate further north crossing a well established
bridge over the river and continuing through some big rutts and/or snow drifts until
you come to a river crossing. An official government ban on crossing this river is in
effect currently (2007) and appears to be an issue at large. Look for signage to that
effect. It is regarding trout migration. Whether on foot or vehicle, cross the river and
turn left heading west following the river. At a forced second crossing (cliff) is GBU
(the Good, the Bad, the Ugly), a significant ice wall leading down to the river bed on
the right. Continue past GBU along the river via a road on the left side until even with
the next valley running north which is Valley of the Birds. Continue west on a road that
sometimes is easy to follow and other times looks like a rubble of rocks. You will
pass Burning in Water, Drowning by Flame, WI 6+ and the Sliver, WI 6 high up on
your left. Valley of the Sun, WI 3+ and Beowulf are two valleys side by side on your
right, Beowulf being the 2nd. At a river crossing back to the north side of the river,
start angling right for the left handed entrance into the valley that contains Beowulf
and Devil’s Punchbowl.

Route Description
Hike up the shallow frozen creek as it bends back left and eventually exposes the
first two aesthetic hanging pitches of Beowulf, which look much steeper than they
really are from a distance. At some time, put on your crampons to assist with the
approach and continue to the base of the first short step.

1st Pitch/60m- I combined what many would consider two pitches but is easily
done as one. Climb the first step (WI 3) left of center and walk to the base of the real
falls. This is a WI 4 30m beauty. The left side was better ice but less steeply angled
than the right. The right side was more challenging, but was quite wet and
chandeliery. I started right, but soon, detoured left and then back to the center
towards the end of this pitch. There is a chain anchor on the right as you top out. This
can be a very cold belay, so make sure to pack your down on lead. Also beware
of falling rock whose fall line appears to be the left side, another reason for taking
the more challenging line to the right if the ice is in better shape.

Middle Pitches- The middle ground involves quite a bit of hiking on ice. You will
run into two falls worth pitching out, but could be soloed as well. Neither are above
WI 3.

Last Two Pitches/60m and 25m- Eventually you come to a short waterfall step
ahead and to the right as the canyon narrows (two odd bird nests in the canyon wall
on your right- photos). To your left is a 60m tall waterfall of WI 4 broken up by a few
steps. The steepest section is the first 20 meters or so. You more than likely will be
angling back left until you reach the first break. Then approach the 2nd section head
on and the final piece angles back left again, until you top out to a broad bench with
trees to your left for the belay. Beware that this pitch can cause considerable ice
fall on your belay below which is located in confined quarters.

The final shorter curtain can be WI 5 if you take the right side, but can also be quite
wet and chandeliery. I tried to work the right until I gave up on the quality of the ice
and moved back left for an easy WI 4 lead. Tops out at a tree belay.

Descent
We continued on to Devil’s Punchbowl. It takes two raps with double 60’s to get you
back to the canyon floor from the last two pitches. Whether you are doing Devil’s
Punchbowl or not, you will descend the canyon as you ascended with the need for at
least one v-thread among fixed anchors. Double 60m ropes are a must.

Essential Gear
Two Ice Tools, Double 60 meter Ropes, 10-12 Ice Screws with draws and/or
screamers, Crampons, Helmet, Warm Clothes (lack of sun and heavy winds can
make this a chilly climb), Full Shank Boots, 4W Drive (pretty much a must to travel
far in the North Ghost), Shovel and Sleeping Bag, the Ghost can be full of surprises,
particularly in February where the drifts have started to accumulate. Many climbers
end up parking short of the Valley of the Birds and there is currently (2007) a ban
on the river crossings (by vehicle) necessary to reach Beowulf valley’s entrance
by vehicle. Poles and a possible 2nd pair of boots are handy for several river
crossings you will have to make on foot if no access by vehicle.