Mount Bell Alpine Climb or Scramble

Lat/Lon: 51.28°N, 116.1°W
Mount Bell was named after its first ascender, Nora Bell, in 1910 and is located near
the Lake Louise portion of Banff National Park, one of four connecting national
parks in the heart of the Canadian Rockies. Previously it was known as Mount
Bellevue. Mount Bell is the highest peak on the ridge that lies between Boom Lake
and the Bow Valley corridor. It is separated from Panorama Ridge to the north, thus
Valley of the Ten Peaks, by Taylor Pass. This is high alpine lake country. The
approach takes you by Taylor and O’Brien Lakes and once on Bell’s southeast
ridge, you are served up Boom Lake to the south. Not to mention the tarns you
bypass on the ascent itself.

The published scramble is a long, but moderate day. I climbed Mount Bell in June of
2005 after an unusual spat of weather.   My scramble, therefore, became a full on
Alpine climb. No glacier travel, but a 700’ steep snow couloir to ascend with an
overhanging cornice and the main crux, traversing a steep corniced snow slope
towards the final summit.   Without the snow, I am sure the route is much tamer. I
have skied the 6.3 km up to Taylor Lake which allows for backcountry ski trips to the
north and south, however, there are no reasonable ski routes to the summit. There
are no published alpine rock routes on Mount Bell.

Getting There
The Trans-Canada Highway dissects Banff National Park east to west as you come
in from Calgary. Continue past the Banff and Sunshine Ski Resort exits. Trans-
Canada is a four lane interstate type of highway, but eventually turns into a two lane
section after Castle Junction. Continue for 8.1 km beyond Castle Junction (Hwy 93)
to an unmarked trailhead on your left. You are not supposed to cross traffic into this
trailhead, thus, why it is unmarked traveling from the south. Turn around where
feasible and return to the Taylor Lake trailhead.

Red Tape
You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter the park. This
pass is good for all four national parks. If you plan many visits to Canadian National
Parks within one year, you should purchase an annual pass. There are no permit
requirements to climb in Banff National Park, but all camping is regulated. There is
also a backcountry permit required if you plan on spending a night in the
backcountry versus the town campsites. This can be obtained via the parks website
which is included in the camping section below. Park headquarters are located in
Banff and you will drive through the manned kiosks as you enter the park.

This is active grizzly country, therefore, you should always have bear spray on your
person. We just had a grizzly fatality in Canmore, June, 2005. I do advise checking
with Parks Canada for possible trail closures.

When To Climb
As with most scrambles in the Canadian Rockies, the driest time is from June
through September. I climbed Mount Bell in June in alpine conditions. You can ski
the 6.3 km up to Taylor Lake in the winter which allows for backcountry ski trips to
the north and south, but no reasonable ski routes to the summit.

Camping
Mount Bell has a solid camping option, Banff National Park site Ta6 at Taylor Lake.
You can go on line at Banff National Park to pick your camp site and obtain your
camping permit. You will also be required to obtain your backcountry permit which is
separate, but can be obtained simultaneously.

Mountain Conditions
Banff National Park’s website has weather, wildlife reports, trail closures, etc.
Outside of the parks web site, Canadian Avalanche Association is also useful,
particularly for winter travel.

Route
This is a 4900’+/- ascent day.   Hike 6.3 km on Taylor Lake trail and before you
actually arrive at the lake, you will intersect a marked trail heading southeast
towards O’Brien Lake. Follow this rudimentary trail for 1.6 km to another marked
intersection. Take a right for .4 km to O’Brien Lake. This will put you on the left side
of O’Brien’s outlet. Cross the outlet to the right hand side of the lake and proceed to
the inlet falls on the west end. This is where any evidence of a trail ends.

Follow the falls on steep ascent up to a small tarn. Circumvent the immediate hill to
your left by staying as close as you can to the left hand side of the tarn. Now make a
bee line for due south bypassing another tarn its left side. This is you first real snow
ascent on the route (early June).   I actually went up and over the first hill on your left
and found steep firm snow to ascend through some rockbands.   Closer to the
second tarn will be softer snow, more useful for descent. Basically just pick an
ascent that works for you and continue due south for a notch in Mount Bell’s
southeast ridge. Once to the base of this notch, you will have to ascend a 700’
steep snow couloir that might or might not have a cornice on top (must know self
arrest technique). I stayed right of the intersecting rock bulges on ascent and the
opposite side on descent.

Once you gain the col at about 8200’, turn right and ascend the southeast ridge of
Mount Bell.   Stay left of any problems blocking the ridge until you near 9000’ and
an obvious summit looking blocky piece.   Venture right of this obstacle and
ascend steep snow to the corniced final south ridge. I chose to traverse this steep
exposed snow slope below the cornice to the final several hundred feet to the
summit.   This was significantly exposed solo climbing on unstable snow this
particular June in a near blizzard and I probably would not do it again. Of course I
did have to do it again on return. I contemplated camping out on the summit for a
few weeks until the snow dissipated, but would miss my post climb beer.

Return the route complete. On descent, the blizzard that raged at the summit
completely blew over and left me with grand views to the west including, but not
limited to the Continental Divide, Boom Lake, Bident and end of Quadra’s glacier,
Boom Mountain, Boom Glacier, the Rockwall in Kootenay Park and Chimney Peak
and glacier. Enjoy the glissade back down the snow couloir as well as smaller
ones below.

Essential Gear
Helmet, gaiters, bear spray, alpine axe, crampons (if early start), and I wish I had
taken my damn goggles for the intermittent snow storm.

Trip Report
Storm day, but tired of waiting out the weather this June, 2005.   A hairy snow
traverse, but otherwise an enjoyable challenge without a soul in sight. Lake O’Brien
is incredibly peaceful, so are the tarns and alpine surroundings further up stream.
One of those special places you want to build a cabin to get away from it all. Cheers!