Beer Routes, Field, BC

Lat/Lon: 51.37472°N / 116.50361°W- Click for Satellite Image
The “Beer” routes on the northwest flank of Mount Dennis just outside of Field, BC,
are a collection of local favorites, the most common of which is no doubt Guinness
Gully. Easy access is granted to these routes via a back service road leading west
out of Field. Starting in 2007, this road is going to be closed during certain periods
which prompted three of us to head for Guinness Gully in -20c conditions before year
end, 2006. Mount Stephen and Mount Burgess are a couple of local objectives near
Field. But for the most part, this neck of the woods is known for its ice climbing. Keep
in mind that means you might not want to winter in Field if you know what I mean.
The sun neglects this area for several months in the winter, thus the good ice.

Field is a town of approximately 300 people located in the Kicking Horse River valley
of southeastern British Columbia in the confines of Yoho National Park. Field was
established during the building of the Canadian Pacific Railway as a locomotive
depot for pusher engines required to help trains over the nearby Field Hill and Big
Hill. Field is 27 km west of Lake Louise along the Trans-Canada Highway, the only
access to Field. The visitor center for Yoho National Park is located in Field.

Routes
Left to Right as You Face Mt Dennis from the TransCanada

Pilsner Pillar, III, WI 6, 215m
Juste Pour Rire, II, WI 4R, 20m
Carlsberg Column, III, WI 5, 60m
Cascade Kronenbourg, III, WI 6, 90m
Heineken Hall, III, WI 3+, 100m
Labatt’s Lane, III, WI 3, 185m
Wild Cougar, II, WI 4X, 215m
Guinness Gully, II, WI 4- 245m/ Three pitches of true grade 4. The first pitch is
approximately 30 meters of climbing, the second is the shortest and steepest
curtain at about 20 meters and the third is a full 60 meters (right side) with a
few short rest stops and about three distinct steep sections before the angle
gives way towards the top. Take some shorter screws for this last pitch. You
can tree rap for the descent or find a snow gulley to the west. More detailed
description below.
Guinness Stout, III, WI 4+, 80m
High Test, III, WI 4+, 60m

Getting There
Field is a quaint town with one hangout, the Truffle Pigs Café and General Store.
Most of us from the area (Canmore-Banff) would consider the trip over to Field not
complete without a stop for beers and buffalo burgers at Truffles. Cross the bridge
from the TransCanada into Field and follow the main road as it crosses the railroad
tracks (no lights or traffic arm as of 2006). Follow the one way signs into Field which
take you to the Truffle Pigs Café. Continue to head west from the café onto the back
service road for Field which leads back out to the TransCanada, one way. There is
one pullout on the right and an official trailhead parking area on the left right before
you get to the TransCanada. Use one of these two parking options for any of the Beer
routes. I would avoid parking on the side of the road due to the snowplow activity.

Red Tape
Avalanche conditions can close the service road out of Field which would make it a
bad idea to climb anyway, so consider checking with the Yoho National Park
Informational Center if you think that is a possibility. You will be required to purchase
a national park pass as you enter Banff National Park coming from the east on the
Trans-Canada. This pass is good for all four national parks. If you plan many visits to
Canadian National Parks within one year, you should purchase an annual pass.
There are no permit requirements to climb in Banff or Yoho National Parks, but all
camping is regulated. There is also a backcountry permit required if you plan on
spending a night in the backcountry versus the conventional campsites. This can be
obtained via the parks website which is included in the camping section below. The
huts are managed by the Alpine Club of Canada versus the Parks. The Alpine Club
of Canada headquarters is located in Canmore, AB, the Banff National Park
headquarters is located in Banff, AB and Yoho National Park headquarters is located
in Field, BC. You will drive through the manned national park kiosks as you enter
Banff National Park on the Trans-Canada. It is a good suggestion, on a cold day, to
suit up at the Yoho National Park information center in Field. They are not very
busy in the winter and don’t seem to mind if you want to bring your duffle in and
add your boots, gaiters, etc. They will also have the more recent forecast posted.

As mentioned above, I highly recommend eating at Truffle Pigs in Field. It is quite the
experience in dining and you will not be disappointed. We always make the effort to
dine there when we are in the area. They also sell produce and groceries if you are
camping.

When to Climb
The Beer routes and particularly Guinness Gully can be popular outings on the
weekend. They will only get more crowded on the weekend as mid-week access will
become an issue in 2007. We climbed Guinness Gully mid-week in cold
temperatures and had the entire place to ourselves. If you are willing to climb in -20
c temps, you usually don’t have to worry about being scooped on an ice route.

Camping/Lodging
The closest camp site would be the Kicking Horse and/or Monarch campground(s)
back east at the turnoff for Yoho Valley Road. You can go on line at Yoho National
Park to pick a camp site and obtain your camping permit. You will also be required to
obtain your backcountry permit which is separate, but can be obtained
simultaneously if you plan on camping at a backcountry site like Yoho Pass. You
cannot camp outside of the marked specific camping areas. Field has one inn and
several B&B’s.

Mountain Conditions
Yoho National Park has weather, wildlife reports, trail closures, etc. Outside of the
parks web site, Canadian Avalanche Association is also useful, particularly for winter
climbing. There is avalanche exposure on most of the Beer routes. Canadian
Alpine Accident Reports are also extremely helpful.

Guinness Gully Route Description
This is less than a 1000’ ascent day. The ice climb itself is three pitches of
approximately 245 meters. Your approach from the official trailhead for the Beer ice
climbs on the Field Service Road is all of 15-30 minutes. Leave the trail head and
start ascending immediately through the trees on the south side of the road. Look for
a trail through the snow, but if there is none, start traversing left past an obvious
snow gully and continue to ascend and traverse left until you reach a small
avalanche path with the first pitch of Guinness Gully in clear vision above (although it
might be heavily covered in snow). There are a couple of smaller trees on the left
hand corner of the start that make for a decent platform to gear up. You can scramble
up from there another 10 meters to a flat belay spot. The first and second pitches are
sustained for the grade, but relatively short, 30 and 20 meters respectively. The final
pitch is 60 meters with rest stops and about three short steep curtains.

1st Pitch-30m/ In December, 2006 this pitch had some minor mushrooming effect
going on. We started and kept right. This is a classic WI 4 pitch, nice and vertical, but
not overwhelming to make screw placements. Once you near the top, venture left to
the trees to find a belay station in place or make your own. Place one screw at the top
for a directional for the 2nd. Rock flanks climbers right and makes for an aesthetic
pitch. The views over the valley below and down the valley leading to Emerald Lake
help keep you warm.

2nd Pitch-20m/ This is a steeper and more challenging pitch than the first pitch, but
at least 10 meters shorter. The left side forms a pillar which was not stout enough to
climb in December, 2006. Right center looked to be the best line. You are mostly
hanging to put your screws in on this pitch. Like the first pitch, venture left once you
near the top to find an existing belay station on a tree or create one yourself.

3rd Pitch-60m/ Wander up the left side of the gully and zig zag your way to the base
of the final and longest pitch of Guinness Gully. This huge curtain offers a variety of
options. The right side gives up more rest stops, but is also somewhat thinner. You
will need a few shorter screws for this side more than likely. I used one short
screw in December, 2006. The rappel and belay station is to the right side at the top
of the pitch. If you are going to avoid putting a station in the ice, you will need to climb
the right side due to lack of as well as drag on rope.

Due to an abundance of snow at the base of the curtain, I chose to run out the first
steep section. The next steep curtain is the crux and where I found shallow ice. There
is one final steep section once you succeed the crux, then it starts to ease off as the
multiple rappel/belay stations come into sight to the upper right corner. There is a
small section of ice further above, but you more than likely will not have the rope to
ascend it (60m ropes).

Descent
You have two options for descent. One involves finding the top of that snow gully you
passed on approach. This equates to ascending beyond the final ice pitch and
circumventing a rock wall on climber’s right. We chose to rap the route. The first
rappel can be done from any of two trees and even a single bolt and hanger at the
top right corner of the final pitch. The lower two raps are on trees at the top climbers
left of both of those routes. Basically all three rappel stations make good belay
stations as well. You can take a fun otter slide down from the bottom of the first ice
pitch back to the road and proceed back west to your vehicle.

Essential Gear
Two Ice Tools, Double 60 meter Ropes, 12 Ice Screws and Draws (might need
them all for that last pitch), Crampons, Helmet, Warm Clothes (no sun), Full Shank
Boots. Be equipped to do a V Thread of course, but you should not have to on this
descent.

Notes: Cold as hell this particular day, but 5 star route. Good ice and all three
pitches were challenging for the grade. Definitely recommend it. Look forward to
going back to the Beer routes soon.