Sunrise Buttress

Lat/Lon: 37.33500°N / 113.6875°W Click for Google Map
Crawdad Canyon is one of the most “unique” crags I have ever visited. The first and
only (2007) climbing area I have ever experienced where you have to “pay to climb”.
Of course this is no doubt why I ignored it for years. But once you meet the folks who
run the place, comprehend the dream that started it and realize where the money is
going (Southern Utah Climbers Coalition), it becomes much easier to pay the $2.50
per head entry. Jim Bosse purchased the old Veyo Pool Resort in 1995. His plan
was to create a private climbing park second to none. However, he passed away in
1998 before completion of the ambitious project. Jim’s motto, “Never argue with
stupid people”, is one I hold close and attempt to remind myself of every chance I
get, although at Summitpost, that can be a challenge from time to time.

Crawdad Canyon offers endless sport climbing featuring over 180 bolted routes up
and down both sides of a well shaded (cottonwood trees) one mile long canyon in
the middle of the high desert north of Saint George (Veyo, UT). The property is
centered along a spring fed mountain creek lined with 80’ high basalt cliffs on both
sides north of the Prophesy Wall area. It is open to the general public during spring
and summer months, but is also open to Southern Utah Climbers Coalition annual
members off season. You actually have to pick up a key for the gate at Outdoor Outlet
in Saint George. If you are a member, the fee is $2.50 per person which gives you
total access to swimming, climbing, volleyball, whatever. If not a member, the fee is
$8.00. There is camping available as well, albeit, not so private in season. Keep an
eye out for about a dozen goats that roam the property keeping the brush
trimmed back. It is kind of surreal to be on route and hear the goat collar bells
below. Some brass plates with identification and rating still line the base of the
routes, although many have gone missing. Most, but not all, of the routes have sport
anchors to clip into. The cottonwoods shed so much in May, it looks like it is snowing
at times.

Due to its higher elevation and unique shading by the large cottonwoods, Crawdad
is definitely an escape option when it is too hot to climb at the Saint George Crags, i.
e. the coveted Black Rocks.

Route Description(s)
The Routes are Left to Right, East to West
Baby Rubicon is a right hand turn before the main bridge, through the fence.

Calypso - 50’- 5.10a/ Calypso is a fun corner route that serves as the border
between Rubicon and Baby Rubicon just to the left of Caesar’s Pillar. You
stem and layback up four bolts to anchor. On the easy side of 10a.
Caesar’s Pillar - 50’- 5.10d/
Caesar’s Corner - 50’- 5.9/ Huge difference between Caesar’s Pillar and
Caesar’s Corner. Typical dihedral, right facing, five bolts to anchor. Runs side
by side with the pillar route.
Morning Sickness - 50’- 5.11c/
Ionic Depletion - 45’- 5.11c/
Spit Shine - 35’- 5.7/ Spit Shine and Subject to Change are great for climbers
in training which is what we used them for. Crawdad is great in general for
guests who want to climb but have little experience. Edges and pockets
through four bolts to anchor.
Subject to Change - 35’- 5.7/ Not much, but a little more challenging than Spit
Shine. Slab to steep finish on real positive holds. Four bolts to anchor.
New Horizons - 35’- 5.3/ Now I know what a 5.3 is, well not really, have not
done it personally, but sent up a few others. Nice to have a confidence builder
right next to the 5.7’s so you can show someone that they can lead as well.
Stacy modeled this route via a photo. Real blocky stuff. Three bolts to anchor.
Pig in a Poke - 45’- 5.10b/
Corrupting the Natives - 45’- 5.8/ Slab, bulge and pockets through four bolts
to anchors.
Leftovers - 50’- 5.9/ Contains one of the more challenging moves at Baby
Rubicon. Start up easy corner until below and to the left of the anchors above
an overhang. Unlock the move out right that gets you up and over the
overhang direct or butcher it from the corner or the dirty right hand side. Five
bolts to anchor.
Fish Story - 50’- 5.9/ Nice sustained edges to a mini roof below the anchors
that is fun to pull. My favorite route at Baby Rubicon. Five bolts to anchors.
Negative Ions - 50’- 5.9/ Again, sustained edges to roof. Roof looks harder
than it is, but nice route. Five bolts to anchors.

Essential Gear
Handful of draws, 50m rope, swimming trunks for afterward. No trad climbing
allowed.

Getting There
Take Highway 18 (Bluff Street) north of Saint George for approximately 18 miles to
the small hamlet of Veyo. Look for the Crawdad Canyon sign on your right hand side
prior to entering town. If you have run the Saint George Marathon, this is the first
small town you run through on your way back to Saint George after being bused out.
A very supportive town as I recall (particularly for 6:AM in the morning). Follow the
road you turned onto past some horse property and to the Veyo Pool sign. Turn left
and park here at the top of the hill. No dogs are allowed and they actually have a dog
pen in the parking area, but much of the year it should be way too hot to leave your
dog in the pen or your vehicle. Proceed on foot down the paved steep road through a
set of gates to the bottom of the hill. Turn left into the pool area to pay your fee and
sign your waivers. Many of the routes are marked with their respective ratings, but it
is best to have Todd Goss’s “Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah” handy as many of the
markers are missing.

Red Tape
You can climb at Crawdad all year around, but the gate is locked during the winter
months and you will have to get a key at Outdoor Outlet in Saint George, UT. To do
this, you will have to become a Southern Utah Climbing Coalition member. The
annual membership is $30 per person or $60 per family (5 people can be listed)
(2007). Your daily fee with annual membership is $2.50 and $8.00 if you are not an
annual member. In either circumstance, you must have a signed waiver on file.
Please always check in at the office by the pool. Drinking water is available and they
serve snacks, burgers, etc. by the pool.

No trad, bouldering or free soloing is allowed (thank your local lawyer). No children
under 10 or dogs are allowed in the climbing areas.

Camping/Lodging
The campsites are pretty aesthetic below the cottonwoods, but not too private, as the
canyon is relatively narrow and climbers will be walking back and forth beside your
tent. That being said, I have never seen the place too busy. The 2007 camping rates
are $20 per vehicle site, up to eight people and $10 per walk in site. The nearest free
camping is the Prophesy Wall area back south at Dammeron Valley.

Notes: Two trips to this wall so far. One with a relatively new climber from
summitpost. One would be hard pressed to find a better training ground to build
confidence, several 5.7's, 5.8's and 5.9's. Thus one of the more popular spots at
Crawdad, but still amazed at so few folks here on any given day. You can climb here
in comfort when it is 100F in St. George (which is often!). When you are ready for
higher grades, Rubicon Wall is just a few feet away.