Tower of Babel

Lat/Lon: 51.325°N, 116.169444°W - CLICK FOR TOPO MAP
The Tower of Babel was named such by Walter Wilcox as it reminded him of the
biblical rendition that reached into the heavens.   In reality, this is not such a massive
feature by Canadian Rocky standards.    This quartzite spire is however much better
known than the mountain named after it, Mount Babel, which is directly behind
(south) of the tower.    Its easy access via Moraine Lake Road makes it a common
objective for both technical climbers and scramblers.   The scramble route is
straightforward and three rock routes on the north side of the tower are no more than
six pitches in length and are around 5.7.   (McKay Route, Greenwood Route and
Fuhrmann Route).   The scramble can obviously be used for descent of these north
face routes.   The East Face route of Mount Babel itself is a much more viable
challenge, rated at Alpine IV 5.10 A1 or a strenuous free at 5.11.

The Tower of Babel is located over Moraine Lake, which is part of the Lake Louise
portion of Banff National Park, one of four connecting national parks in the heart of
the Canadian Rockies.   The approach trail (Consolation Lake Trail) to the Tower of
Babel is a commonly used trail among the tourists who are delivered in mass by bus
to the Lake Moraine Lodge.

Getting There
The Trans-Canada Highway dissects Banff National Park east to west as you come
in from Calgary. Travel to the Lake Louise exit and turn left through town and then
take another left on Lake Moraine Road. Drive to the end of the road at Moraine Lake
Lodge, approximately 11kms.

Red Tape
You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter the park. This
pass is good for all four national parks. If you plan many visits to Canadian National
Parks within one year, you should purchase an annual pass. There are no permit
requirements to climb in Banff National Park, but all camping is regulated. There is
also a backcountry permit required if you plan on spending a night in the backcountry
versus the town campsites. This can be obtained via the parks website which is
included above. Park headquarters are located in Banff and you will drive through the
manned kiosks as you enter the park.

This is active grizzly country, therefore, you should always have bear spray on your
person during non-hibernation months. I advise checking with Parks Canada for any
area and/or trail closures. The trail to the Tower of Babel is a commonly closed trail.

When To Climb
As with most scrambles in the Canadian Rockies, the driest time is from June
through September. I chose to climb Tower of Babel in June during a mild snow
storm.   This is not a very significant objective.     Skiing to the summit is not
conducive.

Camping
Of course it really does not make sense to camp for this objective. You start at the
Lake Moraine Lodge.   That link is above. You can go on line at Banff National Park
to pick a camp site and obtain your camping permit.   You will also be required to
obtain your backcountry permit, if you are going to use a backcountry site, which is
separate, but can be obtained simultaneously.

Mountain Conditions
The Banff National Park website has weather, wildlife reports, trail closures, etc.
Outside of the parks web site, Canadian Avalanche Association is also useful,
particularly for winter travel. Canadian Alpine Accident Reports is also extremely
relevant.   There are currently (2006) two accident reports associated with the Tower
of Babel, one involving the scramble.

Route- Scramble
This is a 1500'+/- ascent day.   The scramble route up Tower of Babel is a pleasant
enough route if done in marginal weather to avoid other climbers and hikers. It is so
short of a route, it really just serves the purpose of a rest day (for most) in the
Canadian Rockies.

Take the Consolation Lake Trail from the Moraine Lake parking lot (near the
washrooms by Moraine Lake's outlet). This trail normally has a bear restriction of
six people minimum.   Follow this trial for approximately 1 km. Tower of Babel will
clearly come into view on your right side.

Proceed up the large scree on your right aiming for the narrow gully on Tower of
Babel's right side. Staying right on the larger scree works better for ascent. Once into
the gully, stay right, in and out of ledges to avoid rock fall hazard from the upper
gully and Babel's west wall.   Ascend through the gully and out onto the ridge that
leads left to the broad summit plateau. The summit consists of large, lichen-covered
separated blocks of quartzite. It also has an assortment of summit cairns, including
a full living room set when we were there in 2005.   Even though I did this route in
weather, I could still make out Mt. Bident, the Quadra Glacier and Consolation Lakes
to the southeast. I could hear Mt. Fay unloading her typical ice and rock directly to the
south. Return the same, this time venture out into the gully further to take advantage
of a fast glissade on snow and/or scree.

Essential Gear
Helmet, Gaiters, Alpine Ax in Winter Conditions or Poles for the Summer.

Trip Report
Horrible weather and we had to get out. With the snow and fog, this small 1500'
scramble fit the bill. One foot of fresh snow on the summit in late June! Something to
stow away for a rest day if out climbing the Lake Louise area.