Ashtar Command Tower Technical Rock Climbs

Lat/Lon: 37.2106°N, 112.9614°W- CLICK FOR TOPO MAP
Ashtar Command Tower is considered one of the “tunnel crags” in Zion National
Park.   It is (you guessed it) a tower like feature with four established routes.   Ashtar
Command Tower is located on the south side of Route 9 prior to passing through
the Zion-Mt. Carmel Tunnel, directly across from Mount Spry.

Zion National Park is a 229 sq mile protected landscape of sculptured canyons and
their respective steep, towering cliffs. It is located at the junction of the Colorado
Plateau, Great Basin and Mojave Desert. The wildlife and ecosystem is vast for such
a small area and includes many varieties of bats, reptiles and birds (including the
endangered peregrine falcon ) as well as desert big horn sheep, mountain lions,
black tailed jackrabbits, grey fox and ringtail cats just to name a few of the mammals.
Human history in the park dates back to 6000 B.C.   As I mentioned with Island in the
Sky, it is favorable not to step on or damage the cryptobiotic crust as it can take over
50 years to repair itself, if at all.

At least three published guides cover climbs in Zion. They are Desert Rock, Zion
Rock and Rock Climbing Utah.   The Ashtar Command Tower finished routes as
described in Zion Rock are:   The Maneater II- 5.11, Ashtar Command- 5.9, Feeling
Minnesota- 5.8 and Ground Control- 5.10+.

Getting There
Utah Route 9 has an exit off of I-15 north of St. George, UT. Route 9 takes you into the
south end of Zion National Park through the town of Springdale and continues out
the east end through a tunnel. During the busy months, private vehicles are not
allowed into Zion Canyon itself, but they are allowed on Route 9 through the park.
Right before you get to the tunnel, try and turn around (can be a squeeze) and head
back the other direction. Ashtar Command Tower is on the south side. The only
parking is a small pullout, if you want to call it that, on the right side of the road as you
face west. Let’s just say parking is at a premium. There is not a lot of room for
many climbing parties in this area. Because you are so close to the tunnel and they
stop traffic for RV’s to go through the tunnel, you will have quite the audience and end
up in a few stranger’s photo albums, or at least we did.

Red Tape
Zion National Park will have manned kiosks on Highway 9 and you will be required to
pay a US National Park fee ($20 per vehicle for a day/week pass, $50 for an annual
pass-2005). Backcountry permits are required for all overnight trips in Zion National
Park, including climbing bivouacs.   Climbing bivouac reservations are available for
Moonlight Buttress, Lunar Ecstasy, Prodigal Son, Spaceshot and Touchstone
climbing areas. The permit fees are based on group size: 1-2 people: $10, 3-7
people: $15 and 8-12 people: $20. Reservations are available for many backcountry
trips in the park. A reservation does not guarantee that you will receive a permit.
Reasons that a permit will be denied include high water, flash flood warnings, and
wildland fires. Depending upon the backcountry zone, 40%-60% of the total number
of backcountry permits are available through reservations. The remainder of permits
are available as walk-in permits.

Some rock formations and routes are closed to climbing from March 1 to mid-July
each year to protect nesting peregrine falcons. Some areas that are routinely closed
include the Great White Throne, Cable Mountain, Court of the Patriarchs, and the
Streaked Wall.

My favorite place for dinner in Springdale is the outdoor patio at Oscars. It also
appears to be the local’s favorite. Most of the staff is into climbing as well, so it is a
great place to plan your next climbing day and maybe even pick up a partner. Ask for
Zach. The Mean Bean across from Oscars is one of my favorite independent coffee
houses period. Ask for Joe.

When To Climb
Summer days are hot (95-110°F), but overnight lows are usually comfortable
(65-70°F). Climbing in the middle of the day during the summer in southern Utah is
not recommended. Carry plenty of water regardless. Afternoon thunderstorms are
common from mid-July through mid-September. Storms may produce waterfalls as
well as flash floods. Sandstone is weak when wet, so avoid climbing in damp
areas or right after a rain. Winter in Zion Canyon is fairly mild. Winter storms can
bring rain or light snow to Zion Canyon and much heavier snow in the higher
elevations. Clear days may become quite warm, reaching 60°F; nights are often in
the 20s and 30s. Zion roads are plowed, except the Kolob Terrace road, which is
closed in winter.

Camping
There are two great campsites inside Zion’s south entrance. I have stayed at the
South Campground just inside the gates. The scenic spots are on the North Fork of
the Virgin River. This is a first come, first serve campground via self registration of
$16 per night in 2005. This is a popular park however and I advise booking a site
ahead of time at Watchman Campground if you think you are going during a popular
period. Facilities include restrooms, drinking water, picnic tables, fire grates, RV
dump stations. No showers are available at these park campsites but are available
at an in town private facility for a fee. There is also a 6-site primitive campground
called Lava Point, no water, no fee, and it is not open all year.

Springdale has tons of lodging options as well including a privately owned
campground right before the entrance on the right before Zion National Park. If you
demand the luxuries of town, I recommend Majestic View Lodge.   I have stayed here
on several occasions and the rooms are first class with great views. There is also
the privately run Zion Lodge which is in the heart of the park.

It is actually “illegal” in Zion to camp at the base of a climbing wall or in your
vehicle.

Mountain Conditions
The Zion National Park website has most everything you need including trail
conditions or closures, wildlife notices, weather conditions, camping permits,
canyon water levels, etc.

Route- Ashtar Command 5.9
Before I start with the approach, might I suggest you bring two ropes for the rappel
even though we only took one. This was not recognized until we parked the car. At
that point, we kind of moved in slow motion to the tower and threw caution to the wind
(literally as it was a windy day). Can’t say that was the smartest move, but we made
it work.

Proceed south up a maintained trail to the base of Ashtar Command Tower (Tower).
This trail really breaks away in the sand at places, but the park appreciates
climbers using the same path versus just charging up the hill. Once on the
eastern side of the Tower, the Ashtar Command route follows a two pitch line
straight up the eastern face and then traverses right to a closely bolted varnished
face. Feeling Minnesota is to the right following the corner on up for one pitch.
Ground Control is around the right corner.

The first pitch requires gear up an obvious crack to the second set of anchors out
onto the wall. Bypass Feeling Minnesota’s anchors to the right. This will not be
the most comfortable stance while belaying the 2nd and/or 3rd. Get a comfortable
stance. The two pitch route is rated 5.9, but while the first pitch is closer to 5.8, the
second pitch is much closer to 5.10 and is a fairly challenging lead.

The second pitch is well bolted as you venture out over the varnished face to the
right. Traverse right and up for an absolutely full pitch of a 60 meter rope (every
inch). Mount Spry and East Temple are in excellent view as you ascend. The traffic
below (possibly stopped waiting on a RV going through the tunnel) can be a
distraction. You acquire quite the captivated audience doing this route. As you start
following the bolts straight up, it becomes more of a smearing campaign. Therefore,
this two pitch route is quite diverse.

Once at the station on the summit of the tower and done with your belays, if you have
two ropes, simply maneuver south a bit and you will find a bomber rappel station that
sets off above and to the south of the first pitch. However, if you are foolish enough to
be up there with one rope, like my crew, you will have to go to the far southern corner.
It is slanted, so belay down to the edge and you should find relatively new (2005)
runners on three really old stone nails of some sort. This still is not a one rope
rappel. We were not sure exactly where it would take us as the wind was catching
our rope aggressively and we could not see the angles below. If you are using this
station, really pay attention to where your rope comes of the lip of the corner. This is a
free air rappel from the get go. We stayed to the right side of the lip and it took us
down to a large rock stuck between the tower and the wall behind.

I don’t recommend the following procedure to anyone. We then swung out to the right
(from the rappel facing the tower) and lowered on rappel until we could swing into
the “chimney like” feature below the independent rock feature between the tower and
the main wall, jamming our bodies as far in as we could. We then lowered ourselves
until at the end of the rope and came out of the system and then stemmed the rest of
the way down, moving further into the crack to keep the counter force working (photo).

Of course the problem with this was the last climber did not have the leverage to pull
the rope. Therefore, we took an hour making a very long rig out of a tree branch and
eventually got the rope pulled despite the wind working against us. This was a hairy
rappel to say the least, and not the brightest of my climbing moments in Zion.

Essential Gear
Two 60 meter ropes. Full set of cams, a few nuts. Climbing shoes. Sandstone
colored chalk. And some sense if you have any.

Trip Report
Met another party doing Feeling Minnesota next to us and it included the legendary
Fred Becky. Although my brother in law has been out with him, I had never met him
before. Interesting old chap, a little on the grouchy side, but then his party was kind of
slow and awkward getting up Feeling Minnesota. He never really climbed all day,
just watched us get into trouble. I think we entertained him. When our epic was done,
he wanted to leave. Part of October 2005 climbing tour with Chris and Zach. Thanks
guys!