Aquarius, Recital Hall

Lat/Lon: 51.28722°N / 115.21417°W - Click for SATELLITE Image
Aquarius is the narrow drainage west of Malignant Mushroom in Devils Gap that is
used as the approach ice into Recital Hall for the more infamous WI 6 routes of
Rainbow Serpent and Fearful Symmetry. To date, Rainbow Serpent is the most
difficult ice climbing route added to Summitpost. Many climbers climb Aquarius on its
own merit, but we used it as the approach ice for Rainbow Serpent in January, 2007.
Aquarius is a full 60 meter pitch (and then a little more depending on how much of
a wanderer you are when putting in screws). There are chains at the top on the
steep granite walls to the right. It is a relaxed climb for the grade due to several short
benches below steep curtains. From Planter’s Valley it looks much sportier than it
really is in my opinion. There is some easier WI 2 ice on approach and this ice,
although normally soloed up, does require a rap on the way back down. Aquarius is
positioned in a very cool environment with huge walls of rock rising on both sides.
Recital Hall, reached at the top of Aquarius, is even more of a treat and even though
you might not be there to climb the two WI 6’s within its confines, it is worth the extra
effort to proceed to the center of Recital Hall to reach the full effect of the boxed in
canyon (not to mention that you should give beta reports at live-the-vision.com
regarding Fearful Symmetry and Rainbow Serpent as it is impossible to determine
their condition outside of climbing Aquarius).

I led Aquarius in January of 2007 to reach Recital Hall and found it in good condition
(not too picked out). You will not be able to see Aquarius on approach and it is
actually best viewed across Devil’s Gap from high up in Planter’s Valley when you
are climbing Weathering Heights or the Peanut Gallery.

Approach/Route Description
The north side of Devils Gap is below the massive walls of Phantom Crag (aka Devil’
s Fang) which sports some serious summer time rock climbing. Access to Aquarius
and Recital Hall is through a narrow canyon just west of Sunshine, WI 3, and
Malignant Mushroom, WI 5, two pieces of ice that are clearly visible on approach. As
you work your way through the trees and dry river bed into Devil’s Gap heading
northwest, aim for a gully that leads into the canyon just west of Sunshine. As soon
as you find an icy creek bed, you can don your crampons and ascend some short
pitches that lead to the base of Aquarius. Only one of these is long enough to require
a rappel on descent. It is the first piece. As you top out, look over to the right and
you will see a significant leaning tree with rap slings (2007) for the descent.

Continue to the base of Aquarius. You might or might not want to remove your
crampons depending on conditions. There is a two bolt anchor on your right at the
top of the route. This full piece (60 meters) of ice really goes up the gut. The crux,
when I led it during the month of January, was the 2nd half of the 2nd and 3rd tiers.
Both were steep and the higher you got, the thinner the ice that early in the winter.
However, overall I felt the route was on the easy side of WI 4. That might have had
something to do with how challenging the last pitch of Rainbow Serpent (WI 6) was
at the end of the day. I imagine I was reflecting on what a walk up Aquarius was mid-
way through that unrelenting last pitch of Rainbow.

Essential Gear
Two Ice Tools, Double 60 meter Ropes, 10-12 Ice Screws, Crampons, Helmet,
Warm Clothes, Full Shank Boots, 4W Drive (Preferable), Shovel and Sleeping Bag,
the Ghost can be full of surprises.

Notes: One of 20+ WI routes I put in during the winter of 2007. With Adam and
Lynette. We used Aquarius to reach Rainbow Serpent (WI 6)which was in pretty good
shape. Great day with the greatest folks. Hard to beat such memories.