| July, 2007 10,338' Gain- 5200'+/- Aberdeen Glacier, II |
Lat/Lon: 51.37889°N / 116.24972°W- CLICK FOR TOPO MAP
Mount Aberdeen (not to be confused with Mount Aberdeen, Queensland, Australia) and
Haddo Peak combine as one of the most common alpine objectives in the Lake Louise
realm of Banff National Park (Canada’s 1st National Park and the world’s 3rd). Banff is
one of four connecting national parks making up the central Canadian Rockies. Mount
Aberdeen was named after Scotland’s 3rd largest city in 1897 and was known as Hazel
Peak prior to that time. It was first ascended in 1894 by Allen, Frissel and Wilcox making it
one of the early ascents in the Canadian Rockies and the 2nd ascent of the alpine
objectives surrounding Lake Louise.
Mount Aberdeen’s northern glacier provides a classic introduction into ice climbing and
therefore quite a few Alpine Club of Canada trips are planned on this route every summer.
What used to be a snow climb for much of the summer is now mostly an ice climb due to
glacier retreat. Getting up the steep tongue (3 full pitches of ice) and crossing the
bergshrund below the ice fall while protecting the ground above are the two main
cruxes of the route. Although it is possible to descend to the south into Paradise Valley
(our choice of descents), the Paradise Valley Trail has been decommissioned and thus
the bridges demolished over Paradise Creek making this part of the descent the 3rd crux
of the journey if you chose to descend the southwest ridge of Aberdeen. The three
crossings required over Paradise Creek can be quite treacherous, particularly later in
the day as ice and snow melt increase the flow and volume. Your total accumulated
accent via the traditional route and bagging both Aberdeen and Haddo is 5200’+/-.
The north glacier route has six accident reports detailed at Alpine Accidents in Canada.
Most of these occur on the first ice pitches to ascend the tongue. It is obvious via the log
book and trip reports that many parties do not take the time to ascend Haddo Peak, even
though it requires very little extra effort.
Getting There
The Trans-Canada dissects Banff National Park east to west as you come in from
Calgary. Travel to the Lake Louise exit and turn left through town and follow this road 5 km
to its end at the Lake Louise parking area. You should park at the “upper” parking lot to
give you a few more feet head start. The Saddleback trail starts near the boathouse along
the southern lake shore and passes by all the parking areas. Take the Saddleback Trail to
the saddle between Saddle Peak and Fairview (3.7 km at 2200' gain). If you are running
shuttle for the Paradise Valley exit, park a vehicle at the Paradise Trailhead off of Lake
Moraine Road. However, this shuttle only saves you 2kms of extra hiking versus
staying on the Moraine Lake Trail to Lake Louise.
Red Tape
You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter the park. This pass is
good for all four national parks. If you plan many visits to Canadian National Parks within
one year, you should purchase an annual pass. There are no permit requirements to
climb in Banff National Park, but all camping is regulated. There is also a backcountry
permit required if you plan on spending a night in the backcountry versus the town
campsites. This can be obtained via the parks website which is included in the camping
section below. Park headquarters are located in Banff and you will drive through the
manned kiosks as you enter the park.
This is active grizzly country and thus why Paradise Trail has been officially
decommissioned. Hike out the Paradise Trail at risk of Grizzly or Park penalty. This is
one of the reasons many choose to descend the ascent route via V-Threads.
When to Climb
I climbed Mount Aberdeen in July. Earlier in the year, snow will make the ascent easier,
but the transformation between snow cover and hard ice can be perilous making June
normally a bad month to climb Aberdeen. The month of May can often result in too much
post holing during the approach. As of 2007, there are six published accident reports
related to Mount Aberdeen, several relating to conditions.
Camping/Lodging
The closest camp site would be back in town at the Lake Louise Campground. You can
go on line at Banff National Park to pick a camp site and obtain your camping permit. You
will also be required to obtain your backcountry permit which is separate, but can be
obtained simultaneously if you plan on camping at a backcountry site. The Lake Louise
Alpine Center Hostel is a great place to eat and has been recently renovated, but is more
expensive than your average hostel. Of course those with the big bucks can camp out at
the Chateau itself. The Paradise Valley backcountry campsite is no longer in existence
due to converting the area back to Grizzly habitat.
Mountain Conditions
The Banff National Park website has weather, wildlife reports, trail closures, etc. Outside
of the park’s website, Canadian Avalanche Association is also useful, particularly for
winter travel. Canadian Alpine Accident Reports is also extremely relevant.
dd Red Tape text here.
Route Description
This is a 5200’+/- total ascent day. If one is intent, as we were, on bagging both Haddo
Peak and Mount Aberdeen and then descend into Paradise Valley, this climb is more of an
Alpine III adventure verses Alpine II based on time required. Also lending to a grade
change would be the resulting steepness of the Aberdeen Glacier tongue making the first
three pitches of ice somewhat steeper. To an avid waterfall ice climber it is still a walk in
the park. To more tepid alpine climbers, this obstacle has resulted in many folks not
reaching the summit. On our climb, an ACC trip consisting of five climbers took an
enormous amount of time ascending this portion of the climb. We started at 4:30 am and
bagged Haddo Peak and then Mount Aberdeen at about 11:30 while the ACC crew were
just then reaching the bergshrund and looked to be turning around despite starting their
trip at 4:00 am. Direct sun on the rock and ice above make for typical objective hazard.
The Saddleback trail starts near the boathouse along the southern lake shore and
passes by all the parking areas. Take the Saddleback Trail to the saddle between Saddle
Peak and Fairview (3.7 km at 2200' gain). If you are running shuttle for the Paradise Valley
exit, park a vehicle at the Paradise Trailhead off of Lake Moraine Road. However, this
shuttle only saves you 2kms of extra hiking versus if you stay on the Moraine Lake Trail to
Lake Louise. You can make it to the Saddleback Trail in an hour if you are athletic. Once at
the col, turn right and follow the Fairview scramble trail for a short distance taking the first
signs of a thin trail to your left. Traverse the lower southern slopes of Fairview and
descend ever so slightly (losing several hundred feet) into the Aberdeen Glacier drainage
below Sheol Mountain. Follow the drainage for a short distance and start up steep
moraine to your left. There is little evidence of a trail here and many make the mistake
of following the drainage to the ice which is a longer approach. The steep moraine
allows you to traverse to a good starting point on the tongue of the glacier at the lower left
hand side. Rope up here.
Either simul-climb or pitch out three full 60 m pitches up the steep section of the ice to the
crevassed glacier above. Once you gain the broad section of the glacier, angle right
towards a notch that gives up grand views of Mount Victoria. This line avoids the larger
crevasse openings to the left. Turn back left at the notch and study where you want to
cross the bergshrund below the icefall. The traditional line has been to cross at the far left
below a rock band and traverse back right and up steep snow. I found a line that went
right on the bergshrund and allowed me to protect a potential fall into the bergshrund
via three exposed ice patches. The line constantly angles back left out of harms way until
you reach rock that can be easily scrambled up. This line eats up about 6 ice screws, two
per ice patch and involves some traversing on snow/ice. The traditional line to the left
crosses the bergshrund at a much broader gap and puts you directly below rock fall. We
witnessed fresh rock fall on this line in July, 2007.
Once you reach the col, un-rope and continue (turn left) up to the summit of Haddo Peak at
10,070’ which is nothing more than a hike. The imposing north face routes of Mount
Temple are directly to the south. Once you return to the col, determine whether you will
rope up for the snow slope traverse to Mount Aberdeen. Unless you are placing snow
protection into the slope, roping will have little meaning. We soloed across the slope
without crampons, but a fall here is deadly as steep ice lies below you. Angle your way to
the comfortable Aberdeen summit.
The views are nothing short of spectacular. Mounts Temple, Deltaform, Eiffel, Pinnacle,
Hungabee, Lefroy, Victoria, Unnamed, Pope, Hector, Daly and the list goes on and on.
There are active summit registers on both Haddo Peak and Mount Aberdeen.
Descent
You have two descent options. Either rap the ice on the route you just ascended or walk
off the southwest summit ridge of Mount Aberdeen. I chose the latter for a more complete
experience, ascending one valley (Surprise) and descending through another (Paradise).
After descending 500’-1000’ on large rubble down the southwest ridge of Aberdeen, you
arrive at a soft col. Face south and descend soft ground and snow for over 2000’ down to
the top of a significant drainage. Proper glissade or butt glide technique can make this
descent short and sweet. Once down to the top of the drainage, find a sheep trail that
meanders down the left ridge above the drainage. Eventually drop down into the drainage
and head for Paradise Creek. Cross to the other side of Paradise Creek for the first of
three creek (river!) crossings you will need to make before getting to a commissioned trail
(read bridges). The third river crossing will obviously be the deepest and most
concerning. Eventually you tie back into a commissioned trail. Hike out to the Paradise
Trail Head (10kms) or back to Lake Louise (12kms).
Essential Gear
60m rope, crampons, 6-8 ice screws, helmet, glacier self extraction gear, glacier clothes,
ice tools, poles for the approach and river crossings.
Mount Aberdeen (not to be confused with Mount Aberdeen, Queensland, Australia) and
Haddo Peak combine as one of the most common alpine objectives in the Lake Louise
realm of Banff National Park (Canada’s 1st National Park and the world’s 3rd). Banff is
one of four connecting national parks making up the central Canadian Rockies. Mount
Aberdeen was named after Scotland’s 3rd largest city in 1897 and was known as Hazel
Peak prior to that time. It was first ascended in 1894 by Allen, Frissel and Wilcox making it
one of the early ascents in the Canadian Rockies and the 2nd ascent of the alpine
objectives surrounding Lake Louise.
Mount Aberdeen’s northern glacier provides a classic introduction into ice climbing and
therefore quite a few Alpine Club of Canada trips are planned on this route every summer.
What used to be a snow climb for much of the summer is now mostly an ice climb due to
glacier retreat. Getting up the steep tongue (3 full pitches of ice) and crossing the
bergshrund below the ice fall while protecting the ground above are the two main
cruxes of the route. Although it is possible to descend to the south into Paradise Valley
(our choice of descents), the Paradise Valley Trail has been decommissioned and thus
the bridges demolished over Paradise Creek making this part of the descent the 3rd crux
of the journey if you chose to descend the southwest ridge of Aberdeen. The three
crossings required over Paradise Creek can be quite treacherous, particularly later in
the day as ice and snow melt increase the flow and volume. Your total accumulated
accent via the traditional route and bagging both Aberdeen and Haddo is 5200’+/-.
The north glacier route has six accident reports detailed at Alpine Accidents in Canada.
Most of these occur on the first ice pitches to ascend the tongue. It is obvious via the log
book and trip reports that many parties do not take the time to ascend Haddo Peak, even
though it requires very little extra effort.
Getting There
The Trans-Canada dissects Banff National Park east to west as you come in from
Calgary. Travel to the Lake Louise exit and turn left through town and follow this road 5 km
to its end at the Lake Louise parking area. You should park at the “upper” parking lot to
give you a few more feet head start. The Saddleback trail starts near the boathouse along
the southern lake shore and passes by all the parking areas. Take the Saddleback Trail to
the saddle between Saddle Peak and Fairview (3.7 km at 2200' gain). If you are running
shuttle for the Paradise Valley exit, park a vehicle at the Paradise Trailhead off of Lake
Moraine Road. However, this shuttle only saves you 2kms of extra hiking versus
staying on the Moraine Lake Trail to Lake Louise.
Red Tape
You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter the park. This pass is
good for all four national parks. If you plan many visits to Canadian National Parks within
one year, you should purchase an annual pass. There are no permit requirements to
climb in Banff National Park, but all camping is regulated. There is also a backcountry
permit required if you plan on spending a night in the backcountry versus the town
campsites. This can be obtained via the parks website which is included in the camping
section below. Park headquarters are located in Banff and you will drive through the
manned kiosks as you enter the park.
This is active grizzly country and thus why Paradise Trail has been officially
decommissioned. Hike out the Paradise Trail at risk of Grizzly or Park penalty. This is
one of the reasons many choose to descend the ascent route via V-Threads.
When to Climb
I climbed Mount Aberdeen in July. Earlier in the year, snow will make the ascent easier,
but the transformation between snow cover and hard ice can be perilous making June
normally a bad month to climb Aberdeen. The month of May can often result in too much
post holing during the approach. As of 2007, there are six published accident reports
related to Mount Aberdeen, several relating to conditions.
Camping/Lodging
The closest camp site would be back in town at the Lake Louise Campground. You can
go on line at Banff National Park to pick a camp site and obtain your camping permit. You
will also be required to obtain your backcountry permit which is separate, but can be
obtained simultaneously if you plan on camping at a backcountry site. The Lake Louise
Alpine Center Hostel is a great place to eat and has been recently renovated, but is more
expensive than your average hostel. Of course those with the big bucks can camp out at
the Chateau itself. The Paradise Valley backcountry campsite is no longer in existence
due to converting the area back to Grizzly habitat.
Mountain Conditions
The Banff National Park website has weather, wildlife reports, trail closures, etc. Outside
of the park’s website, Canadian Avalanche Association is also useful, particularly for
winter travel. Canadian Alpine Accident Reports is also extremely relevant.
dd Red Tape text here.
Route Description
This is a 5200’+/- total ascent day. If one is intent, as we were, on bagging both Haddo
Peak and Mount Aberdeen and then descend into Paradise Valley, this climb is more of an
Alpine III adventure verses Alpine II based on time required. Also lending to a grade
change would be the resulting steepness of the Aberdeen Glacier tongue making the first
three pitches of ice somewhat steeper. To an avid waterfall ice climber it is still a walk in
the park. To more tepid alpine climbers, this obstacle has resulted in many folks not
reaching the summit. On our climb, an ACC trip consisting of five climbers took an
enormous amount of time ascending this portion of the climb. We started at 4:30 am and
bagged Haddo Peak and then Mount Aberdeen at about 11:30 while the ACC crew were
just then reaching the bergshrund and looked to be turning around despite starting their
trip at 4:00 am. Direct sun on the rock and ice above make for typical objective hazard.
The Saddleback trail starts near the boathouse along the southern lake shore and
passes by all the parking areas. Take the Saddleback Trail to the saddle between Saddle
Peak and Fairview (3.7 km at 2200' gain). If you are running shuttle for the Paradise Valley
exit, park a vehicle at the Paradise Trailhead off of Lake Moraine Road. However, this
shuttle only saves you 2kms of extra hiking versus if you stay on the Moraine Lake Trail to
Lake Louise. You can make it to the Saddleback Trail in an hour if you are athletic. Once at
the col, turn right and follow the Fairview scramble trail for a short distance taking the first
signs of a thin trail to your left. Traverse the lower southern slopes of Fairview and
descend ever so slightly (losing several hundred feet) into the Aberdeen Glacier drainage
below Sheol Mountain. Follow the drainage for a short distance and start up steep
moraine to your left. There is little evidence of a trail here and many make the mistake
of following the drainage to the ice which is a longer approach. The steep moraine
allows you to traverse to a good starting point on the tongue of the glacier at the lower left
hand side. Rope up here.
Either simul-climb or pitch out three full 60 m pitches up the steep section of the ice to the
crevassed glacier above. Once you gain the broad section of the glacier, angle right
towards a notch that gives up grand views of Mount Victoria. This line avoids the larger
crevasse openings to the left. Turn back left at the notch and study where you want to
cross the bergshrund below the icefall. The traditional line has been to cross at the far left
below a rock band and traverse back right and up steep snow. I found a line that went
right on the bergshrund and allowed me to protect a potential fall into the bergshrund
via three exposed ice patches. The line constantly angles back left out of harms way until
you reach rock that can be easily scrambled up. This line eats up about 6 ice screws, two
per ice patch and involves some traversing on snow/ice. The traditional line to the left
crosses the bergshrund at a much broader gap and puts you directly below rock fall. We
witnessed fresh rock fall on this line in July, 2007.
Once you reach the col, un-rope and continue (turn left) up to the summit of Haddo Peak at
10,070’ which is nothing more than a hike. The imposing north face routes of Mount
Temple are directly to the south. Once you return to the col, determine whether you will
rope up for the snow slope traverse to Mount Aberdeen. Unless you are placing snow
protection into the slope, roping will have little meaning. We soloed across the slope
without crampons, but a fall here is deadly as steep ice lies below you. Angle your way to
the comfortable Aberdeen summit.
The views are nothing short of spectacular. Mounts Temple, Deltaform, Eiffel, Pinnacle,
Hungabee, Lefroy, Victoria, Unnamed, Pope, Hector, Daly and the list goes on and on.
There are active summit registers on both Haddo Peak and Mount Aberdeen.
Descent
You have two descent options. Either rap the ice on the route you just ascended or walk
off the southwest summit ridge of Mount Aberdeen. I chose the latter for a more complete
experience, ascending one valley (Surprise) and descending through another (Paradise).
After descending 500’-1000’ on large rubble down the southwest ridge of Aberdeen, you
arrive at a soft col. Face south and descend soft ground and snow for over 2000’ down to
the top of a significant drainage. Proper glissade or butt glide technique can make this
descent short and sweet. Once down to the top of the drainage, find a sheep trail that
meanders down the left ridge above the drainage. Eventually drop down into the drainage
and head for Paradise Creek. Cross to the other side of Paradise Creek for the first of
three creek (river!) crossings you will need to make before getting to a commissioned trail
(read bridges). The third river crossing will obviously be the deepest and most
concerning. Eventually you tie back into a commissioned trail. Hike out to the Paradise
Trail Head (10kms) or back to Lake Louise (12kms).
Essential Gear
60m rope, crampons, 6-8 ice screws, helmet, glacier self extraction gear, glacier clothes,
ice tools, poles for the approach and river crossings.
CLICK TO ENLARGE PHOTOS
1. Ascent to the col
2. Ascent to Aberdeen
3. Ascent to the col
4. Alternative ascent marked, not advised
5. Ice Fall
6. Descent down to Paradise
7. Lefroy
8. Victoria
9. Aberdeen Glacier Tongue
1. Ascent to the col
2. Ascent to Aberdeen
3. Ascent to the col
4. Alternative ascent marked, not advised
5. Ice Fall
6. Descent down to Paradise
7. Lefroy
8. Victoria
9. Aberdeen Glacier Tongue
